Oil Leak from Timing Cover when Engine Shut Down

[Bigearl]

2007 Mustang engine with 75k miles was stored for 8 years and recently disassembled and found to be in generally good condition. It was then rebuilt with new Ford parts in timing chain assembly, rockers and lifters, con rod bearings. piston rings and gaskets. The timing cover was carefully replaced with new gaskets and the use of "Right Stuff" at the cylinder head to block joints, at the cam cover joints and at the oil pan.
This engine is installed in a Factory Five Cobra replica with Ron Francis electronics that allows it run with just the original ECM.
The engine started up straightaway sounds good and no error code issues diagnosed. We have run the motor at idle and driven the car a short distance without the body on, there are no oil leaks until we shut the motor down. Then we get about a half teaspoon of oil from each side of the timing cover leaking from the outside head to block joint area, no leaks from the inner sides of the V. We have verified there is no pressure in the crankcase causing this as we have removed the oil filler cap at the time of shut down and also the vent from the PS cam cover is not blocked.
I am aware that some boosted engines have issues forcing oil from the timing cover but this seem like oil just draining and then leaking on shut down so I am puzzled.
Any thoughts, advice or similar experience would be appreciated. Earl

 

[Midlife Crises]

Ive had the front cover off my 2010 3 valve a few times and never encountered oil leaks. Used a dab of Rite-Stuff at the joint of the oil pan and cover as well as the head/block joint just like you mentioned. No problems at all. I hit my motor with 18 Lbs of boost and have no PCV system. Crank case breaths through the valve covers and there are no leaks. If I remember correctly, a few of the bolts that secure the front cover are supposed to have sealant on the threads at assembly.

 

[86GT351]

Ive had the front cover off my 2010 3 valve a few times and never encountered oil leaks. Used a dab of Rite-Stuff at the joint of the oil pan and cover as well as the head/block joint just like you mentioned. No problems at all. I hit my motor with 18 Lbs of boost and have no PCV system. Crank case breaths through the valve covers and there are no leaks. If I remember correctly, a few of the bolts that secure the front cover are supposed to have sealant on the threads at assembly.

This ^

 

[Laga]

I had my 05 rebuilt about 3 years ago and had a leak just like yours. The engine builder knew what he was doing. But he had a young guy helping him that was a real caveman. Didn’t use a torque wrench on anything. Valve cover leaked also. Positive cable wasn’t tightened down on alternator or starter. Knock sensors were too tight causing false knock.

 

[Bigearl]

Ive had the front cover off my 2010 3 valve a few times and never encountered oil leaks. Used a dab of Rite-Stuff at the joint of the oil pan and cover as well as the head/block joint just like you mentioned. No problems at all. I hit my motor with 18 Lbs of boost and have no PCV system. Crank case breaths through the valve covers and there are no leaks. If I remember correctly, a few of the bolts that secure the front cover are supposed to have sealant on the threads at assembly.

Thanks Midlife for the reply, I definitely did not put sealant on any of the fasteners so that could be the issue. I will dig into that!

 

[whitmanink]

fordmiikilouco or Sumthing like that has a great video on youtube,, showing how to do the timing on a 5.4 (same process)
ive done the timing twice and had the motor part 3 times (2 different ones)

i dont think any rtv goes on the bolt,,, i do know that there are about 4 different lengths of screws to use and they need to be in the correct spot and torqued the correct way,,

thats not to say thats the cause of the leak , but something to check..

maybe where the rtv went, it was not cleaned and oil is able to seep past the rtv?

again id watch the youtube video and just see if you are missing something , or Sumthing wasnt done correctly

 

[Bigearl]

Thanks whitmanink, I have seen the video, in fact before I did the job and as I was working on the motor on an engine stand had everything clean, torqued correctly, bolts in the right place etc. and this is what puzzles me. So I will pull the timing cover and redo it.

 

[JC SSP]

Take pics and post important notes when you can.

Many of us plan on doing this in the near future.

Thanks in advance.

 

[Midlife Crises]

Look closely at the damper bolt and washer. Oil will weep out through the key way if you did not apply sealant to the keyway at assembly. Oil could be thrown off the spinning damper and not show up as a drip until the engine is shut off.

 

[whitmanink]

Look closely at the damper bolt and washer. Oil will weep out through the key way if you did not apply sealant to the keyway at assembly. Oil could be thrown off the spinning damper and not show up as a drip until the engine is shut off.

he did say he watched the video,, and it says about the keyway rtv ,
thats not to say he missed it,, but doubtful.
and from my understanding , if it were comming out the keyway, it would sling oil everywhere due to the momentum of the crank?

 

[Bigearl]

Well did the job a few weeks ago, removed the timing cover and checked there was right stuff on all the appropriate points. When I did the original job I did not use a lot of silicone to avoid excess coming off and getting into the oil pan. I reviewed Mukuloco video and used his recommended Permatex Black although I am sure the Right Stuff is also good. This time however I used more silicone and also forced into the grooves between block and head with a gloved finger. This has cured the problem. So anyone doing this job make sure you push silicone into the grove and don't skimp on it.

 

[Laga]

Well did the job a few weeks ago, removed the timing cover and checked there was right stuff on all the appropriate points. When I did the original job I did not use a lot of silicone to avoid excess coming off and getting into the oil pan. I reviewed Mukuloco video and used his recommended Permatex Black although I am sure the Right Stuff is also good. This time however I used more silicone and also forced into the grooves between block and head with a gloved finger. This has cured the problem. So anyone doing this job make sure you push silicone into the grove and don't skimp on it.

I still have an oil leak on mine. By any chance, did the oil ever drip off of the back of the engine. At this time of year, I only take the car out on the highway. Put about 20 miles @ 80mph. I get the two drips on the edge of the timing cover, but also at the rear of engine. No leaks from valve covers. I’m going to take a look at the key way on the crank.

 

[Bigearl]

If coming from the back of the engine it is likely to be a rear main seal, if only a small leak it's not worth replacing the seal which would require pulling the engine.

 

[Laga]

If coming from the back of the engine it is likely to be a rear main seal, if only a small leak it's not worth replacing the seal which would require pulling the engine.

It’s not rear main seal. 6 months ago I had it replaced and once trans was dropped. Everything was dry around it.

 

[Bigearl]

If its not the main seal or cam covers that leaves just the oil pan for common issues. You need to inspect as much as you can with mirror and lighting to see if it starts above oil pan.

 

[Laga]

Just crawled under car. It does appear that oil is coming from behind crank pulley and is being thrown around.
Last time I was under there I cleaned crank position sensor connector, and today it is soaked with oil. It is directly in line with front of timing cover. Area behind crank pulley is very oil soaked.
I have an aftermarket A-arm support that was not on 05&06 models but was added to 07+ models. This is under where engine and transmission meet and collects oil. This is why we thought it was the rear main seal. Also, guy who worked on engine had some problems with rear main seal when engine was reassembled.
I’m too old to tackle a timing cover change, but I think I can pull pulley and apply RTV to key way. I might get lucky.
I’m sure none was applied when engine was reassembled judging by what else was screwed up at that time.

 

[GriffX]

I have an aftermarket A-arm support that was not on 05&06 models but was added to 07+ models. This is under where engine and transmission meet and collects oil. This is why we thought it was the rear main seal.

Had exactly the same issue, oil from front seal running on top of the oil pan and dripping on the A-arm support. I thought also rear mail seal and put AT-205 (half of recommended volume) in the oil and it fixed it. But, I will change the front seal, ....someday..... not top priority now

 

[Laga]

Look closely at the damper bolt and washer. Oil will weep out through the key way if you did not apply sealant to the keyway at assembly. Oil could be thrown off the spinning damper and not show up as a drip until the engine is shut off.

Pulled the damper off this past weekend. There was some silicone in key way, but not much. Cleaned everything good, put an even coat of black Permatex in key way, and no more more leak up front. Thanks a million.
Now, I have to find leak above starter. I’m afraid it is head gasket.

 

[GriffX]

Did you use a special pusher tool, e.g. longer bolt?

 

[Laga]

Did you use a special pusher tool, e.g. longer bolt?

I followed the instructions in the video mentioned above. The damper slides on far enough to slip over key way. Then, using a large socket, I tapped it a few times with a dead blow hammer. I had put a light coat of oil on the crank and damper so it didn’t take much, less than I expected. Used a ratchet to tighten it down.
The engine turned very easily (25 ft/lbs) when I went to torque the new ARP bolt,
So I had to estimate using the air gun. I tighten it, back off 360°, retighten not as much, and then another 90°.