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JMulkey

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I don’t know what to do next my 05 Mustang GT ended up in limp mode. Well I bought an OBD reader at suggested MAF and camshaft sensor and from then on I have replaced MAF, camshaft sensor, spark, plugs, coils, and O2 sensor two camshaft sensors fuel filter cleaned out the fuel pump. What do I do next other than a match?
 

86GT351

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I don’t know what to do next my 05 Mustang GT ended up in limp mode. Well I bought an OBD reader at suggested MAF and camshaft sensor and from then on I have replaced MAF, camshaft sensor, spark, plugs, coils, and O2 sensor two camshaft sensors fuel filter cleaned out the fuel pump. What do I do next other than a match?
What are all of the codes you have?
 

JMulkey

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It began as horrible rough idle! The first codes it shot was the MAF and misfire in 3 and bank 2 was to lean.
 

whitmanink

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yea we need the codes it threw,,
not for nothing, but i have a bluedriver ob2 scanner,,
its ok and reads codes,, but it tells u fixes and they aren't really good ones,,
just some fixes that helped others.

i just got my wife a wrx and i needed to reset the ecu cam memory..
so i had to get a "thinkdiag2" (only $130 amazon) now its $150
it is sooo much better and shows you alot more, and soo many things to do "add new key, abs open , and things like all sensors u can check one by one, (thats worth its money in gold)
and u can get 2 car companys unlocked for a yr free, so my ford one and suburu one is wat i used,,
point is , depending on the scanner , its not gonna give too much and sometimes cant or wont read temp codes or things like that,

and its important to have the tool needed to help diagnose and troubleshoot so your not throwing the parts cannon at it..

btw this scanner does the same stuff a $1000 one can do


 

DieHarder

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Since you've replaced the alternator twice... What's you're running voltage across the battery terminals? (use a VOM - Volt/Ohm meter on DC volts) If less than 14 vdc you likely have ground and/or battery cable issues. Bad grounds will cause all kinds of mayhem in these cars. You can try cleaning the grounds to see if that improves the output. Should have 14.5 - 14.7 vdc to call it good. If running voltage is still low and the alternator is good you might want to consider replacing the battery harness. Our cars are +20 yrs old now and copper battery cables will often sulfate with age (depending on environment) which increases resistance resulting in lower than optimal output. You can also try adding a ground from a mounting bolt for the alternator back to the passenger strut tower ground to see if that helps. Otherwise, I'd replace the battery cable harness.

2005 - 2006 Battery harness: https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_nkw=WC-95954&_sacat=0&_from=R40&_trksid=p2332490.m570.l1313
 
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86GT351

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Since you've replaced the alternator twice... What's you're running voltage across the battery terminals? (use a VOM - Volt/Ohm meter on DC volts) If less than 14 vdc you likely have ground and/or battery cable issues. Bad grounds will cause all kinds of mayhem in these cars. You can try cleaning the grounds to see if that improves the output. Should have 14.5 - 14.7 vdc to call it good. If running voltage is still low and the alternator is good you might want to consider replacing the battery harness. Our cars are +20 yrs old now and copper battery cables will often sulfate with age (depending on environment) which increases resistance resulting in lower than optimal output. You can also try adding a ground from a mounting bolt for the alternator back to the passenger strut tower ground to see if that helps. Otherwise, I'd replace the battery cable harness.

2005 - 2006 Battery harness: https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_nkw=WC-95954&_sacat=0&_from=R40&_trksid=p2332490.m570.l1313
This is possible however, you still want to have it load tested to check the regulator and diode output.
 

Laga

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Last summer I had cam position codes and some random misfires from an alternator with a bad diode. Easy to test. Search for procedure.
 

Pentalab

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While putting the fluke 87 DVM directly across the battery terminal's, I read 12.5 vdc. (eng off). With eng on, and idling, it reads 14.75 vdc.

With eng on, idling, then switch DVM to read AC voltage. It should be minimal, like just a few Millivolts. IF the AC voltage is a lot higher, like several volts etc, then you have bad (shorted) one or more diodes inside the alternator. These alternators are 3 phase types. Typ 6 x diodes used. If one of more diodes have failed shorted, you are now pumping raw AC into the battery... and everything else. That will lessen the life of a battery quick like. It will affect the ecu etc.
 
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JMulkey

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Thank you I pulled the valve cover and found 4 rocker arms broke. So now I guess I’m searching for a new engine!
 

JMulkey

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I’ve searched online for a crate motor and came across a sketchy business deal with a man and was being very rushed and persistent about info only pertaining to billing any suggestions
 

Dino Dino Bambino

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Thank you I pulled the valve cover and found 4 rocker arms broke. So now I guess I’m searching for a new engine!
Unless your engine has catastrophic damage, it'll be much cheaper and easier to replace the damaged components (cam followers/lash adjusters, camshafts) on your existing engine. You can also do the timing set, oil pump, and valve stem oil seals at the same time. Perhaps upgrade the camshafts and valve springs while you're there.
Then again, if you have the Coyote swap itch and you just have to scratch it, that would be an alternative route.
 
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