Need car fixed ASAP. Any recommendations and experience with this issue would be appreciated

[Racer45]

Went to the track this morning haven’t fired the car up in about a month. Cars power band was stuttering all day didn’t have full power. Knew something was off. Pulled these codes, while I was at the track. While there I pretty much went through the whole harness pulled all the plugs checked for loose and bad ground. Loose or corroded connectors all seemed good, pulled the cam position sensors. Checked them out they were clean, oil was full, car has all new timing kit + oil pump, rockers, laches ect. Installed last summer. I’m going to pull these codes valve covers and get a look at the phasers and cam solenoids in the morning. If anybody can help throw some more suggestions it would be greatly appreciated. I need to get the car fixed tomorrow as on going racing again Saturday.
Also has a new 200ah alternator (not remanufactured )

Disregard the fan codes as I’ve disconnected it from the pcm and have it running to a switch and its own independent relay

 

[Blue03Cobra]

What year is your car? If the components check out, including the ECU, I'd start with wiring (any rodents around while it sits idle), including grounds.

 

[Forty61]

I know you said the alternator is new and it's probably a stupid suggestion but I didn't see it in your post.. what voltages are you seeing at the battery and from the alternator?

 

[Racer45]

What year is your car? If the components check out, including the ECU, I'd start with wiring (any rodents around while it sits idle), including grounds.

07 GT went to ford earlier today and grabbed all new solenoids, cam sensors and crank sensors just installing them all on the car now . Cars @ 120,000mi and it still has all the original stuff on it. Plus the engine harness is getting pretty dumpy lots of Broken connectors, brittle, and been soaked in oil a few times. If all these sensors and solenoids don’t work out I’ll probably order a new engine harness next

Checked all 6 grounds and all are good. No evidence of rodents or wear down on the harness any where

Valve covers are off right now just checked the phasers there not loose or bent. Timing marks line up on the chain and it’s tight

What year is your car? If the components check out, including the ECU, I'd start with wiring (any rodents around while it sits idle), including grounds.

 

[Racer45]

I know you said the alternator is new and it's probably a stupid suggestion but I didn't see it in your post.. what voltages are you seeing at the battery and from the alternator?

Yes, it’s a new PA performance 200ah alternator. W upgraded power wires + ran ground 4ga ground cable directly from case bolt to car main ground on passenger strut tower.

Battery charges within the specifications

I got the alternator out right now also measured the rectifier bridge diodes and confirmed there not blown or leaking current back

 

[Racer45]

SOLVED. New plastic chain tensioner seal blew out.

 

[Samos3]

Which seal did you have? Felpro or stock?

And which oil pump did you put in it?

 

[Racer45]

The seal was the one that comes glued to the factory plastic chain tensioners so OEM, they came with the ford racing timing kit I threw in the car

Drivers bank blew out side that get oil first

Oil pump - Melling M360HV hi flow

I’m also running a little thicker oil 5w30
And spin the motor up to 7300rpm and run the car at high rpm’s for long periods of time on track.
But cars only making around 350whp

I don’t think the plastic tensions will suffice for the cars intended driving

I may try out some iron tensioners
Any suggestions?

 

[Kev555]

It wouldnt class the factory seal as a seal on my ford performance timing kit tensioners, tensioner gasket was just a fine bead of silicone. I was dismayed and didn't trust it as the silicone was hanging off one of the tensioners. I bought Felpro gaskets from Rock auto from memory and I was a lot happier. I put the Melling HV pump in mine too

 

[Kev555]

Found the picture of the tensioner factory seal

 

[Racer45]

Found the picture of the tensioner factory seal

View attachment 115802

Oh ok I had no idea you could even aftermarket gaskets for those things I’d definitely give those a try then are these the ones you talking about here?

 

[Samos3]

The seal was the one that comes glued to the factory plastic chain tensioners so OEM, they came with the ford racing timing kit I threw in the car

Drivers bank blew out side that get oil first

Oil pump - Melling M360HV hi flow

I’m also running a little thicker oil 5w30
And spin the motor up to 7300rpm and run the car at high rpm’s for long periods of time on track.
But cars only making around 350whp

I don’t think the plastic tensions will suffice for the cars intended driving

I may try out some iron tensioners
Any suggestions?

I asked because I have read some debate on the use of high pressure oil pumps and high rpm causing problems with the vct solenoids and the tensioners due to exceptionally high pressure. And heavier oil contributing to the issues by not bleeding down fast enough.
Reports of tensioners overextending and not retracting might break things.

I'm not an expert on this by any means, so I don't have any suggestions. But, if there is something to it, then I could see where the oem tensioner seals could be vulnerable.

I'm using the 13-14 GT500 oil pump. It is higher volume and higher pressure at 80psi, which is 20psi higher than the stock GT pumps 60psi. As I understand it, that is not the maximum pressure they make, but I'm not sure at what rpm they are spec'd.
I will be putting a 60psi bypass spring in it and run it as just high volume, not high pressure.

 

[Racer45]

I asked because I have read some debate on the use of high pressure oil pumps and high rpm causing problems with the vct solenoids and the tensioners due to exceptionally high pressure. And heavier oil contributing to the issues by not bleeding down fast enough.
Reports of tensioners overextending and not retracting might break things.

I'm not an expert on this by any means, so I don't have any suggestions. But, if there is something to it, then I could see where the oem tensioner seals could be vulnerable.

I'm using the 13-14 GT500 oil pump. It is higher volume and higher pressure at 80psi, which is 20psi higher than the stock GT pumps 60psi. As I understand it, that is not the maximum pressure they make, but I'm not sure at what rpm they are spec'd.
I will be putting a 60psi bypass spring in it and run it as just high volume, not high pressure.

Well if it looks and sound like a duck right.

Yeah the pump I got is only hi flow. Not high pressure so think it just moves more GPM at or around the factory pressure. I don’t have a gauge for pressure yet on the car so can’t verify for sure. But you would think running at higher RPM its self probably adds more pressure then factory spec anyways

 

[Samos3]

Well if it looks and sound like a duck right.

Yeah the pump I got is only hi flow. Not high pressure so think it just moves more GPM at or around the factory pressure. I don’t have a gauge for pressure yet on the car so can’t verify for sure. But you would think running at higher RPM its self probably adds more pressure then factory spec anyways

Yeah, I think theFord and Melling hv pumps are like 20% more capacity.

I'll have to find out what rpm the stated psi ratings are measured at. Might be nice to know.

 

[skwerl]

Make sure you torque the tensioners correctly. Too tight can flex or crack the plastic, creating a leak.

 

[Kev555]

Oh ok I had no idea you could even aftermarket gaskets for those things I’d definitely give those a try then are these the ones you talking about here?
View attachment 115805

I didn't know gaskets were available either until I saw the poor quality gasket on the tensioner and asked on here. somebody pointed them out to me. I cant confirm if the ones you posted are the correct ones but I'm sure more knowledgeable people will confirm that.

 

[Samos3]

I didn't know gaskets were available either until I saw the poor quality gasket on the tensioner and asked on here. somebody pointed them out to me. I cant confirm if the ones you posted are the correct ones but I'm sure more knowledgeable people will confirm that.

 

[Racer45]

I didn't know gaskets were available either until I saw the poor quality gasket on the tensioner and asked on here. somebody pointed them out to me. I cant confirm if the ones you posted are the correct ones but I'm sure more knowledgeable people will confirm that.

Well thanks for the suggestion anyways. I’ll order them up and hopefully this will be a permanent solution to my issue

 

[Racer45]

View attachment 115820

Right on thanks for confirming the part#. Yup they match up. I’ll have them by Saturday and hopfully back on the road by Sunday