First time Used Engine install

[1slow46]

Hey guys. I want to swap my 2006 4.6 engine with a used one from a company that sells used engines. Any recommendations on what I should look out for when swapping it. Its going to be my first time pulling out a engine. When i receive my used one what should i consider replacing ? any tips and guides ? Any steps ?

 

[whitmanink]

i have lots of experience in this as i just threw a ebay engine in my car last year and a half,, (i have a write up on getting it)

first , u gotta pull the valve covers and pan and make sure there isnt any wire wheel bits left over from them (cleaning) it.. ,mine had quite a few and if i did get em ,, god knows what havok they would cause

next is you gotta check the bolts and make sure they are tight, (my center intake bolts were not even snug )

than its just appreciate the process and put her in,,

now is a good time to do the clutch as well if its a manual.
or install headers ,,

and engine leveler is helpful but not needed to pull the motor ,

6 and 8 point sockets only ,, dont wannna round off any..

take a video and pics of how the engine bay looks before you do any work , then as you're about to pull the harness make a video showing under the car where the plugs go. (not hard only 2)

youre not gonna like what im gonna say next...
you should really do the timing and roller followers while shes out and easy to do ,,

that and you dont really know how many miles is on the engine..

any other questions feeel free to ask

 

[86GT351]

i have lots of experience in this as i just threw a ebay engine in my car last year and a half,, (i have a write up on getting it)

first , u gotta pull the valve covers and pan and make sure there isnt any wire wheel bits left over from them (cleaning) it.. ,mine had quite a few and if i did get em ,, god knows what havok they would cause

next is you gotta check the bolts and make sure they are tight, (my center intake bolts were not even snug )

than its just appreciate the process and put her in,,

now is a good time to do the clutch as well if its a manual.
or install headers ,,

and engine leveler is helpful but not needed to pull the motor ,

6 and 8 point sockets only ,, dont wannna round off any..

take a video and pics of how the engine bay looks before you do any work , then as you're about to pull the harness make a video showing under the car where the plugs go. (not hard only 2)

youre not gonna like what im gonna say next...
you should really do the timing and roller followers while shes out and easy to do ,,

that and you dont really know how many miles is on the engine..

any other questions feeel free to ask

this!

 

[Juice]

Roll the dice, just slap it in
OR
Pull pan, valve covers, timing cover for full inspection. Your call.

 

[JC SSP]

I have not done a S197 yet... but plenty of Foxbody, G-body, Camaros, Trans Am, etc. Some R&R from the top (most common), if you have a lift then dropping the K-frame is an option. Whatever you do, be ready for the unexpected, so be patient. Also, you doing just the engine or with the transmission attached?

As already mentioned, definitely drop the pan and valve covers on the used engine especially if the mileage is unknown... Last thing you want to do is install an engine with an issue. Also, a good time to freshen her up and reseal it (oil pan, valve covers, front cover, rear seal, etc.) Taking videos, pictures and written diagrams or label taping plugs, harness, etc. is the best way not to get things mixed up.

Finally, couple of "competent" friends can be useful too in squirming the engine into place. You don't want to crush, pinch or damage anything on the removal and install. TAKE YOUR TIME!

Last thing, keep a first aid kit handy as the "Blood Gods" will want a sacrifice for your work! LOL

 

[bambam 06]

Pull pan, valve covers, timing cover for full inspection. This is basic while the engine is out, not doing it, you are taking a gamble with a used engine.

 

[Kev555]

Depending on what lifting apparatus you have will guide how you tackle removing the old engine. I found mine pretty straight forward but as I hadn't removed an engine in a good while and the fact I never pulled a V8 engine before, I labelled most of the loom plugs that could be mixed up and kept all the bolts for each component I disconnected in small marked parts trays I had laying about. That last piece of advice to myself was priceless as it took 3 months before the rebuilt engine went back in again and id really have forgotten where some bolts belonged to. Buying a used engine can be a minefield. Do companies in the US mark engines in such a way that if you dismantle them it voids the warranty if any is given?

 

[1slow46]

i have lots of experience in this as i just threw a ebay engine in my car last year and a half,, (i have a write up on getting it)

first , u gotta pull the valve covers and pan and make sure there isnt any wire wheel bits left over from them (cleaning) it.. ,mine had quite a few and if i did get em ,, god knows what havok they would cause

next is you gotta check the bolts and make sure they are tight, (my center intake bolts were not even snug )

than its just appreciate the process and put her in,,

now is a good time to do the clutch as well if its a manual.
or install headers ,,

and engine leveler is helpful but not needed to pull the motor ,

6 and 8 point sockets only ,, dont wannna round off any..

take a video and pics of how the engine bay looks before you do any work , then as you're about to pull the harness make a video showing under the car where the plugs go. (not hard only 2)

youre not gonna like what im gonna say next...
you should really do the timing and roller followers while shes out and easy to do ,,

that and you dont really know how many miles is on the engine..

any other questions feeel free to ask

Thanks for the INFO … even if i have all the info on the engine and has a warranty of 30-60 days should i still pull the valve covers and pan ? I plan to get something from lkq or similar engine sellers . during this i plan on putting in a new clutch flywheel and some headers im honestly excited asf. any special tools that I will need ? for the timing and rollers is it best to do so regardless ??

 

[1slow46]

i have lots of experience in this as i just threw a ebay engine in my car last year and a half,, (i have a write up on getting it)

first , u gotta pull the valve covers and pan and make sure there isnt any wire wheel bits left over from them (cleaning) it.. ,mine had quite a few and if i did get em ,, god knows what havok they would cause

next is you gotta check the bolts and make sure they are tight, (my center intake bolts were not even snug )

than its just appreciate the process and put her in,,

now is a good time to do the clutch as well if its a manual.
or install headers ,,

and engine leveler is helpful but not needed to pull the motor ,

6 and 8 point sockets only ,, dont wannna round off any..

take a video and pics of how the engine bay looks before you do any work , then as you're about to pull the harness make a video showing under the car where the plugs go. (not hard only 2)

youre not gonna like what im gonna say next...
you should really do the timing and roller followers while shes out and easy to do ,,

that and you dont really know how many miles is on the engine..

any other questions feeel free to ask

when pulling them off for inpection what the main thing i should look out for what should i not see im not to experienced but would like to know wha exactly to look for

 

[1slow46]

I have not done a S197 yet... but plenty of Foxbody, G-body, Camaros, Trans Am, etc. Some R&R from the top (most common), if you have a lift then dropping the K-frame is an option. Whatever you do, be ready for the unexpected, so be patient. Also, you doing just the engine or with the transmission attached?

As already mentioned, definitely drop the pan and valve covers on the used engine especially if the mileage is unknown... Last thing you want to do is install an engine with an issue. Also, a good time to freshen her up and reseal it (oil pan, valve covers, front cover, rear seal, etc.) Taking videos, pictures and written diagrams or label taping plugs, harness, etc. is the best way not to get things mixed up.

Finally, couple of "competent" friends can be useful too in squirming the engine into place. You don't want to crush, pinch or damage anything on the removal and install. TAKE YOUR TIME!

Last thing, keep a first aid kit handy as the "Blood Gods" will want a sacrifice for your work! LOL

what would be better for me and what is easier ?? can i pull them together so it easier to work on or should i do them seperate ??

 

[whitmanink]

question 1.. yes stil pull the covers,, mine had a 90 day warrant but its not what you think ..
and it even tells you that you must replace all hoses, fluids ,ect ect or warranty is void.

and there's a oem tool for the roller followers ,, dont get the chineese knockoff,,
i have both and can show you why ,,(just got the oem one cuz my Chinese one isnt working on all of them,)
other than that and and engine hoist and tools,, nothing crazy


question 2.
look for anything out if the ordinary ,, left over wire wheel bits,, bolts missing ,, bolts not tight,
the condition on the cam caps, crazy scoring on the cam lobes (oil starved)
and chips on the head or block from shipping..
(fyi they glue a metal button on the head,,it looks like a watch battery ,, its to see if you over heat the engine,, don't remove that or its void)

question 3 in my opinion its easy as heck to pull just the motor,, with the intake off you can get the bolts no problem ,, but the best way is to drop the k member and have the engine and trans just sitting there ,,,
if you have the room you can do the engine and trans ,, but id do that only if its an auto cuz the torq converter bolts and all ,, and the trans harness plug

 

[whitmanink]

i wil say this tho,, there is no reason to mark each wire harness plug,,
the harness is nice in that it goes where it needs to naturally .
and the plugs are all different so there is no need to mark them,, its very very obvious ..

i forgot where the ground went (one in the ecm box , and one on the passenger side motor mount)

but a video for reference for how the wires and tubes and stuff flows around the engine

 

[Samos3]

Getting ready to do the timing and rockers/adjusters myself.
Common wisdom is to go all Ford OEM, but if you do, between those costs and the cost of the used motor, you are a good chunk of the way to a rebuilt motor from ATK or somebody.

My advice (because I've contemplated the used motor route), if you go used, get the lowest mileage you can afford and you are likely to still have all OEM inside. Higher mileage might be a crap shoot and have problematic replacement parts.

Do replace the rockers and lash adjusters with new OEM. $400-500.

Remove the front cover and look for damage to the backside of it. It will be from the chain grinding away. If damaged you can get a new cover with belt tensioner and idler pulleys from Ford Parts Giant for $170. If none, replace chain guides, tensioners and use the Felpro gaskets. Pull the cam phasers off and check the condition of the pin and the locating slot on the cams. Any damage and replace them.
New oil pump and pickup. Stock oem or oem 13-14 GT500 (swap the old oil pressure bypass spring into the GT500 unit to bring oil pressure down to stock GT spec, but you keep the high volume aspect of the GT500 pump. Too much pressure can scour your bearings. Might not be an issue, but we know the stock spring is okay).
VVT solenoids....your choice, replace with new, $70 each or just use your old ones or keep them as spares.

New water pump and steel fitting going out the back.
New thermostat.

New gasket on the oil filter adaptor. They fail between the oil and coolant passages.

New front seal, maybe new rear seal if easy to do.

When the pan is off, there are some ways to check the thrust hearing and a couple of the rods that tend to have issues, but I don't recall offhand which ones and how to check.

If things check out good, and you replace the common wear items, you should have many miles without wondering.

 

[DieHarder]

Always good to be able to refer to a manual and a couple of U-tube vids... read/view first. Then ask questions and be sure to have a couple of friends who have removed/installed engines before. Note: be very careful not to pinch/nick/destroy the wiring that runs from the engine bay down and over the transmission. Lots of horror stories from members who have accidentally damaged that harness especially during removal/installation.

2005 - 2010 Mustang manual: https://iihs.net/fsm/?d=0

4.6 3v Engine: https://iihs.net/fsm/?d=158

Engine Removal: https://iihs.net/fsm/?d=167&f=Engine.pdf

Engine Installation: https://iihs.net/fsm/?d=166

Utube search: Engine removal/installs

https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=2006+mustang+gt+engine+removal

Not endorsing this guy but he does a good job of explaining the basics...

2005 Mustang GT Engine Removal Walkthrough How To #1

2005 Mustang GT Engine Removal Walkthrough How To #2

2005 Mustang GT Engine Removal Walkthrough How To #3

2005 Mustang GT Engine Removal Walkthrough How To #4

Plenty of other vids to view before you tackle that job. Good luck.

 

[Samos3]

Depending on how far you want to go, replaced the valve seals. Even if low mileage, they are at least 16 years old if original. Easier to do out of the car than in.

If I were doing this, with an engine under 80k or so, I'd even think about new headgaskets and bearings. All precautionary insurance, but I keep my cars a long time. I've had my GT for ten years and I hope for ten more. If you don't expect to drive it another 100k, the headgaskets and bearings might be overkill.

Either way, replaced the flywheel and record the numbers on the block behind it and some others on the front of the motor. They tell you what bearings were installed at the factory. Can't see them at all once the flywheel and trans is attached.

 

[whitmanink]

to be clear,,,
when i got my used engine ,, it got a whole new timing kit, roller followers, my hv oil pump from the old block (less than 2000 ,miles on it) , new water pump ., new felpro head gaskets, new front and real main seal.
the only thing i didnt replace was the valve stem seals lol..

altho its costly to get a used and redo all the gaskets,

its still cheaper than a $5000 new reman,,

if you are just driving , you dont need to go full send,...

no reason for the hv oil pump (just get the updated roller follower's with little holes in them..)

infact if its just a daily , id open her up to make sure all is good, ,, replace whatever seals you cant get too with the engine together ,, replace the water and oil pump (oem) put new fluids on and send it,,..

to be fair the head gaskets will be fine for 200,000 as long as its not over heated ,,so no reason to do that..

i replaced everything because im fulll bot on and will be boosted