Suspension help. Ordering a 2011 and need advice.

[Sam Strano]

Hang on now... What he can mess with is a function of classing, once he changes springs, then he's in a class where the rear bar is also free...

Also if you changed the PHB, I'd not bother changing the brace--that is IMHO a waste of money. Frankly were you to change arms there are better options than versions that use poly bushings at both ends. And from a handling standpoint those are secondary to proper springs/dampers and swaybars.

I'd sure love to hear the reasons why BBR things that the Roush Extreme springs and the BBR arms would be better than the Steeda stuff... I might have a particular favorite part for a use, but generally I try and explain my reasoning if I'm going to make a recommendation like that. Here, I have my preferences and they are most of the original "option B" before it was amended by BBR. I'd sure like some detail specifically regarding the Roush Extreme springs. Maybe he has some data I can't seem to find like spring rates and little stuff like that.

 

[Towelly]

Fixed it for you.

Lol! Thanks John. Why the Roush Extreme's > Steeda's?

Hang on now... What he can mess with is a function of classing, once he changes springs, then he's in a class where the rear bar is also free...

Also if you changed the PHB, I'd not bother changing the brace--that is IMHO a waste of money. Frankly were you to change arms there are better options than versions that use poly bushings at both ends. And from a handling standpoint those are secondary to proper springs/dampers and swaybars.

I'd sure love to hear the reasons why BBR things that the Roush Extreme springs and the BBR arms would be better than the Steeda stuff... I might have a particular favorite part for a use, but generally I try and explain my reasoning if I'm going to make a recommendation like that. Here, I have my preferences and they are most of the original "option B" before it was amended by BBR. I'd sure like some detail specifically regarding the Roush Extreme springs. Maybe he has some data I can't seem to find like spring rates and little stuff like that.

Thanks for the advice Sam. Much appreciated. Is there a better spring? Like I said, I am willing to sacrifice ride quality. Just not as much to rattle my fillings out. Just keep in mind its a street car. I don't necessarily want a competition spring, but if there is something better than the Steeda Sports that is a bit stiffer, I'm sure I can hang with that.

Jake

 

[*JZ*]

Both the Steeda and the Roush springs are great springs. But from a racing perspective, we've had customers as well as our own guys have better track times using the Roush Springs over other springs out there. As for the the control arms, ours are just lighter and just as strong.

 

[Towelly]

Thanks for responding John! Would it be possible to get the spring rates of the Roush springs? I'm having trouble finding them myself. Thats awesome though.

 

[*JZ*]

I will call Roush directly tomorrow and get them for you. You're right. They don't advertise it.

 

[Towelly]

Much appreciated.

 

[Sam Strano]

I use what I use because it's a known. I'm sorry, but I don't get into the the whole "Roush says" stuff, it's all about trusting they know what to do. I can also sell Roush as my biggest WD has it as a line--so I have easy ready access to it. This isn't a matter of me saying no because it's not something I have, it's a matter of using what I feel works best.

I know the rates of what I use, and I prefer to use a linear rate spring. If for no other reason they are lighter weight since they don't have the dead coils in them.

As for the LCA's. Ok, but when I do LCA's, I tend to prefer units that allow articulation, and those with poly at each end don't let the axle rotate freely. From a handling and ride perspective that's like adding more rear swaybar to the car--but it doesn't work as as smoothly as you gaining roll stiffness from bind, not from something that gives actual, repeatable, rate. When using Billet type arms, I highly recommend Steeda 555-4406 over the 555-4405 so we get the spherical bearing at the end to allow free axle vs. body rotation. You can get that for much less too in UMI's LCA's that use their Roto-joints (but they aren't as light or as cool looking).

 

[Towelly]

I have a set of BMR's with the poly/spherical combo but they are tubular style. Would it be worth it to switch to boxed with either poly/spherical or spherical/spherical or should I just stick with the BMR's that I already have?

 

[Gray Ghost GT]

I have a set of BMR's with the poly/spherical combo but they are tubular style. Would it be worth it to switch to boxed with either poly/spherical or spherical/spherical or should I just stick with the BMR's that I already have?

I went with the BMR #TCA021 that has the poly bushing with spherical rod and are adjustable to ensure the rear toe is zero after I welded the LCA relocation brackets in place. 2nd from the right in the photo below:

 

[Towelly]

Ok. Thats exactly the same set I have. Except mine are Hammertone colored. What relocation brackets did you use?

 

[Gray Ghost GT]

Ok. Thats exactly the same set I have. Except mine are Hammertone colored. What relocation brackets did you use?

Steeda LCA Relo Brackets - ensure you also have them welded in place when you get them installed since you said you may do some road course events. The BMR Relo Brackets are very good too.

 

[Chris B.]

One more quick question. I heard a Rumor that the 1995 17x9 Cobra R wheels may actually fit over the Brembo's. Is this true? If so I could save a easy $400 in rubber! I plan on having a second set of rims/tires for the track and keeping the 19" "Brembo" pack wheels as the DD wheels. I think they look awesome.

I measured my stock 18" fanblade wheels with Brembo's template for the 4 piston brakes and 14" rotors from the GT500 and 2011 GT. The 18" wheels barely had enough inner diameter to clear the calipers. I doubt a 17" wheels would clear the calipers.

 

[Towelly]

Steeda LCA Relo Brackets - ensure you also have them welded in place when you get them installed since you said you may do some road course events. The BMR Relo Brackets are very good too.

Thanks! I would weld either if I were to install them. Are they critical for a lowered car?

I measured my stock 18" fanblade wheels with Brembo's template for the 4 piston brakes and 14" rotors from the GT500 and 2011 GT. The 18" wheels barely had enough inner diameter to clear the calipers. I doubt a 17" wheels would clear the calipers.

Thanks for the info. I think I am going to just "man-up" and get a set of 18's. Not sure exactly what kind yet. Although the 2010 GT500's from Steve at Tousley are very enticing.

 

[Sam Strano]

I am not a BMR fan (there are reasons for this if anyone cares), but if you have their LCA's that have a rod-end at one side--that's fine.

As for LCA brackets. Skip them until/unless you see a cause for adding them. I don't run them, and most road-race cars don't either. In fact when you lower the car most wheelhop that's there stock (and '11's have very little most of the time) goes away from the change in LCA angle. Putting that back only makes it more likely that you might get some back, and does nothing for the handling of the car (and in fact if you run the LCA's tail-down can hurt the handling).

Also, brackets makes fitting an adjustable rear bar a pain and the rear bar is more critical to handling balance than LCA brackets.

 

[Towelly]

So, updated parts list:

Koni Yellows
Steeda "Extreme" Sport Springs
UMI Single Adj PHB

What about a strut tower brace or braided brake lines? Either of them recommended/required? Also, should I get a set of heavier duty pads/rotors right away and run them on race weekends or should I learn the limits on the stockers first?

 

[Sam Strano]

So, updated parts list:

Koni Yellows
Steeda "Extreme" Sport Springs
UMI Single Adj PHB

What about a strut tower brace or braided brake lines? Either of them recommended/required? Also, should I get a set of heavier duty pads/rotors right away and run them on race weekends or should I learn the limits on the stockers first?

Um.... not what I'd do either. Extreme Sports are too low.... And fwiw, there is more than one UMI Single-adjustable PHB.

If you want some help, you can call me.... I'm here to help customers.

Brembo cars come with a STB on them. In fact I think most cars do now. Braided lines are never a bad idea. One of the things the Boss Laguna Seca will have is firmer brake lines. I sell Goodridge and Steeda lines both. Stock rotors will be fine at first. Stock pads probably will not be unless you run on tracks that are super easy on brakes.

Anyway, if you want an internet setup, you're going to end up with something piecemealed together. I can't do a good setup this way, I need to speak to you to really nail things down.

Also, I'd change swaybars. The OEM front bar from Ford has a bind built in (silly, and they did it for turn-in response), and the rear bar is just too much.

My list would (and this is what I'll be running next year)

Koni's
Sport sprigns
Strano bars
minimum an adjustable PHB, but I'll go to a Watts link.

Brakes are another discussion and most likely you will have to swap pads for street vs. track (if you're smart and at all quick that is).

 

[Gray Ghost GT]

My list would (and this is what I'll be running next year)

Koni's
Sport sprigns
Strano bars
minimum an adjustable PHB, but I'll go to a Watts link.

Brakes are another discussion and most likely you will have to swap pads for street vs. track (if you're smart and at all quick that is).

I called Sam when I setup my GT. I went with his suggestions, which included the Koni Sport "Yellow" Adjustables, Vogtland 1.2" springs (same as the Steeda Sports), and Watts link. I went with the Steeda sway bars. He'll steer you in the right direction - a wealth of knowledge. I also used the Goodridge SS brake lines with my OEM brakes before going to the Wilwood BBK, which have their own SS lines. You'll want an extra set of pads for the track (I use the Carbotech XP10s and Hawk DTC 70/60). Mike

 

[Towelly]

Thanks guys! Sam, the second I am ready to start ordering parts I'll call you. I don't want to yank your chain. I only have a couple grand left on my truck and should have it paid for shortly after the first of the year. The second that happends I will be looking to order a 2011. So, hopefully be talking to you shortly after the first of the year.

 

[Towelly]

Grey Ghost - I meant to ask you, do you trailer your Mustang to the track or drive it?

 

[Gray Ghost GT]

Grey Ghost - I meant to ask you, do you trailer your Mustang to the track or drive it?

I trailer my cars to and from the tracks that way I always know I can get them home should something unexpected happen.