Spec 3+ help. Doesn't seem right.....

J.Cagle

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Well, even tho I am not happy with the way the clutch releases, I will say that the spec 3+ does its job. I never realized how much my stock clutch was slipping until last night. I ended up beside a new Camaro RS in town. I ended up kickin his ass suprisingly, but when I hit third I got a pretty nice 3rd gear scratch WITH MY 20's! It wouldnt even do that with my stockwheels and tires on before.
 

Shane361

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nope. Jared. Im a landscaper,lol
Thanks man, got a friend out there somewhere!

I ran a Spec3+ for pretty much no time at all. I got it back from the performance shop and I think they didn't break it in or it is just junk. It was not rite though I know. I bought a ACT twin disc this time around. No time with it either though.-Shane
 

originalsnake

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I got the 3+ as well. When i first got the car back it was very on/off and tough to drive. After ahudnred or so miles it got much much better and really doesnt feel very different than a stock clutch. It does have a ton of grab when you pop off that thing however daily driving and easing it on and off is no problem. Judging by what a lot of people on here said I guess im one of the lucky ones. I did however notice that after that install the trans was very very notchy. Then i got the not being able to shift into 2nd gear problem while dragging. Solved that with solid mounts, TQ limiters and McCleod hydraulic release.
 

one eyed willy

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3+ here as well and im just fine with it.......12k miles on it with out a single issue. I hated my hurst shifter!! MGW is better for sure!
 

J.Cagle

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3+ here as well and im just fine with it.......12k miles on it with out a single issue. I hated my hurst shifter!! MGW is better for sure!
Im going to try and lube up the hurst a little bit. If that doesnt work, The MGW is the one I will prob get. I think I read somewhere thats the one the hurst handle will bolt onto. Still want the retro look:thumb:
 

one eyed willy

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Im going to try and lube up the hurst a little bit. If that doesnt work, The MGW is the one I will prob get. I think I read somewhere thats the one the hurst handle will bolt onto. Still want the retro look:thumb:



when you order the mgw, make sure you order the correct shift rod, they make a few different ones that fit different knobs!
 

Simon

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I've got a 2+ and love it. I had this on my 2.8 KB Saleen with 660 RWHP and 605 RWTQ with no issues at all. The 3+ is probably overkill. Just my opinion. I did get a faulty Stage 3 once but Spec sent me a brand new one. I sold it and got the 2+, I prefer this one.

How long have you had it?

Made any passes on it?
 

05yellowgt

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It all comes down to break-in people. What the OP is describing for a Spec 3+ clutch is EXACTLY how its supposed to drive. You can slip it if you want but that is NOT how the clutch is designed to be driven. A puck or full faced single disc metallic clutch should be driven differently. When you are backing up, dont slip the clutch, rev the motor some and actuate the clutch with an in-out-in-out motion with your foot to get the car backed up where you need it to go. Slipping it just heats the clutch up and makes it grab harder.

I've had 3 Spec clutches, a Stage 3, a Stage 3+ and a Super Twin SS trim twin disc. I ran the Stage 3 for over 25k hard miles and 125+ track passes and it was a wonder ful clutch and did the job well. When I built my motor and put the blower on I stepped up to a Stage 3+ and the only reason that I went with a twin disc is that the break-in got screwed up when I developed a tiny leak in the rear main seal and that go oil on the clutch disc. Ended up slipping above 6,000rpm and 650+rwhp. Now the twin disc took a while to break in but holds up to everything I throw at it. I just have to be mindful to let the twin disc cool between rounds as double the discs inside a billet aluminum enclosure creates and retains more heat.
 

J.Cagle

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Im going to keep driving it and maybe I will eventually get used to the way it acts. If not, I will be on a new clutch search. First thing Im going to do is get rid of this shitty hurst shifter so I can actually shift at high rpms.
 

lostsoul

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4+ years with spec 2+ and going.

I think spec did have some mfg issue or something with their clutches 2-3 years ago. Again as I explained before that the higher you go the more race oriented the clutch is.
 

1FastS197

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i have the spec 3+ and billet flywheel in my car... only issue i have had so far is air in the lines... which is out now and works great...
 

SVTsupremecy

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I recently had my spec 3+ clutch, new transmission, new throw out/slave, and a hurst shifter installed. The first thing I noticed was that the Hurst shifter sucks ass. It is very "notchy" feeling. It has to "click" into each gear. You cant even shift fast with it. But thats not really my main concern. I know with the 3+ you have to wait for it to break into before it works smoothly. I have put almost 2,000 miles on it now and it still doesnt feel right. When you take off you cant easy into the clutch at all. Its all or nothing. So, when taking off and between gears its impossible to shift smoothly. Also, after it was installed when i back up it starts doing this stupid jerking thing. Any ideas? Does it just need to be re-bled or something?


Not trying to kick a man while he's down but, why would you get a stage 3+ when you could of easily gone with a much MILDER clutch... and how could you expect a Stage 3+ clutch to not be an ON/OFF switch, the thing is rated for 850 torque on their website.
I have similar power mods as you and I just went with the Exedy Mach 400 from BBR...it drives VERY close to stock (slightly stiffer pedal). It was either the Exedy or Mcleod RST/RXT from the research I had done, SPECs and some others do not seem to be very well built for the S197 platform. So if you go get another clutch, my advice would be Mcleod or Exedy.
 
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