Remove front suspension - not that big a deal
Jack under trans bell. or above engine support bar which I think is best way.
Remove about 6 bolts
and drop.
Never done it, but supposed to be super easy.
LT header install
- Thread starter swervo
- Start date
Remove front suspension - not that big a deal
Jack under trans bell. or above engine support bar which I think is best way.
Remove about 6 bolts
and drop.
Never done it, but supposed to be super easy.
swervo
Member
That's what I did with my Mach 1.
K frame removal.
Disconnect and remove the battery and tray.
Remove front wheels.
Unbolt the 15mm nuts on the motor mounts.
Remove the 2 under trays.
Remove tie rod bolts and tie rods from hub assembly. Using a torch on the hub where the tie rod goes helps alot, and during reassembly I put a little anti seize on the tie rod end.
Remove bolt and nut from ball joint. A little anti seize on the ball joint and bolt during reassembly will aid in disassembly in the future if you put some miles on the car.
Remove the 13 mm bolt from the steering shaft knuckle.
Remove the cross brace back by the bell housing.
Unclip the 2 electrical connectors at the steering rack.
Remove 2 of the 18mm bolts at the rear of the k frame.
Support the engine in your preferred manner. I use a pole jack with a block of wood under the oil pan.
Remove the 2 rear ward nuts at the front of the k frame.
Support the k frame.
Remove the last 2 bolts at the rear of the k frame.
Remove the final 2 nuts at the front of the k frame.
Carefully lower and set aside the k frame.
Remove starter and set aside.
Remove nut on passenger side motor mount bracket holding ground wire and nut holding tranny cooler lines if auto. Carefully pull ground wire and bracket out of the way.
Remove 4 bolts holding motor mount brackets on each side. Remember where studded bolts go for reassembly.
Remove 8 nuts on each side holding headers. Be careful of the top front most on the passenger side where it is behind the AC line. Using a ratcheting box end here is probably the best option. I have seen what happens when you try to pry the line back a little, and it is messy. (No, I didn't do it)
Depending on your header choice, it may be necessary to remove the manifold studs as well.
Install your headers. Contrary to popular belief, it is not necessary to install O2 extenders for the front O2s on the 5.0, and I strongly recommend against is, as I have not seen a single extender that works very well. For whatever reason, the connectors do not lock together very well, and I know of at least one instance where the extender has been blamed for a blown engine. If you release the plastic connector at the top of the bell housing where the wire harness crosses over the tranny, you will have enough slack in the harness to reach the drivers side O2 fine.
The rear O2s sometimes require extension, and if necessary, I will cut the harness side (not the O2 wires themselves, but the engine harness) and solder in wires to extend the harness enough. If you are running catless, then rear O2s are not even necessary and the bungs can be plugged.
Reinstall mount brackets, starter, and k frame in reverse order of disassembly. Reinstall battery. Flash car with new tune. ENJOY!
Disconnect and remove the battery and tray.
Remove front wheels.
Unbolt the 15mm nuts on the motor mounts.
Remove the 2 under trays.
Remove tie rod bolts and tie rods from hub assembly. Using a torch on the hub where the tie rod goes helps alot, and during reassembly I put a little anti seize on the tie rod end.
Remove bolt and nut from ball joint. A little anti seize on the ball joint and bolt during reassembly will aid in disassembly in the future if you put some miles on the car.
Remove the 13 mm bolt from the steering shaft knuckle.
Remove the cross brace back by the bell housing.
Unclip the 2 electrical connectors at the steering rack.
Remove 2 of the 18mm bolts at the rear of the k frame.
Support the engine in your preferred manner. I use a pole jack with a block of wood under the oil pan.
Remove the 2 rear ward nuts at the front of the k frame.
Support the k frame.
Remove the last 2 bolts at the rear of the k frame.
Remove the final 2 nuts at the front of the k frame.
Carefully lower and set aside the k frame.
Remove starter and set aside.
Remove nut on passenger side motor mount bracket holding ground wire and nut holding tranny cooler lines if auto. Carefully pull ground wire and bracket out of the way.
Remove 4 bolts holding motor mount brackets on each side. Remember where studded bolts go for reassembly.
Remove 8 nuts on each side holding headers. Be careful of the top front most on the passenger side where it is behind the AC line. Using a ratcheting box end here is probably the best option. I have seen what happens when you try to pry the line back a little, and it is messy. (No, I didn't do it)
Depending on your header choice, it may be necessary to remove the manifold studs as well.
Install your headers. Contrary to popular belief, it is not necessary to install O2 extenders for the front O2s on the 5.0, and I strongly recommend against is, as I have not seen a single extender that works very well. For whatever reason, the connectors do not lock together very well, and I know of at least one instance where the extender has been blamed for a blown engine. If you release the plastic connector at the top of the bell housing where the wire harness crosses over the tranny, you will have enough slack in the harness to reach the drivers side O2 fine.
The rear O2s sometimes require extension, and if necessary, I will cut the harness side (not the O2 wires themselves, but the engine harness) and solder in wires to extend the harness enough. If you are running catless, then rear O2s are not even necessary and the bungs can be plugged.
Reinstall mount brackets, starter, and k frame in reverse order of disassembly. Reinstall battery. Flash car with new tune. ENJOY!
swervo
Member
Damn Chuck, thanks!
I'm pretty sure thats everything. I typed it from memory
GeorgeInNePa
Senior Member
That's what I remember doing.
Never thought of that. I know they have to be turned off in the tune so makes sense that the car doesn't know/care if they are there.
Anyone know the thread size or where I can get some bung plugs? Yes... I said bung plugs.
Digital_Synapse
Senior Member
Do you have the LT's already, ready to go on? Or are you debating buying them?
I think he got a set of Bassanis and I have a set of American Racing on the way.
Digital_Synapse
Senior Member
I put a set of hiflow cats and an xpipe in, and it's loud. I mean, really, really loud. I've heard a new 5.0 with LTH's and mine is just as loud. The gains in power are better with the LTH's, but if you wanted the sound, there are less expensive way to go about it. I'll be getting LT's and a SC when my warranty goes bye bye in several years.
Any good exhaust shop should have them in stock. I cant see them being more than 5 bucks or so each.
swervo
Member
I'm getting Bassani's on Tuesday. Driving up to their shop to pick them up.
I want both the power gains and sound. Plus I'm getting a real good deal on the headers and cats.
JJ@WMS
Member
Nice writeup Chuck but two things.
1) never heat steering knuckles unless absolutely needed for removal (such as a 30 year old car that you really need to take apart). A tie rod removal tool works wonders and doesnt stress the metal of the knuckle.
2) never put antiseize on press/tapered fit ends. Its a press/tapered fit for a reason. Its not supposed to come apart. If Ford thought antiseize was needed they would have put some on. Tools are made to remove press fit/tapered suspension components such as tie rod ends and ball joints.
You wouldnt put antiseize on a blower pulley/snout would you? So why do it on suspension components?
Also whenever possible support the engine from above with the following;
Lastly, it is easier for the average guy to install LT's by not dropping the K member on the S197.
Thanks,
JJ
1) never heat steering knuckles unless absolutely needed for removal (such as a 30 year old car that you really need to take apart). A tie rod removal tool works wonders and doesnt stress the metal of the knuckle.
2) never put antiseize on press/tapered fit ends. Its a press/tapered fit for a reason. Its not supposed to come apart. If Ford thought antiseize was needed they would have put some on. Tools are made to remove press fit/tapered suspension components such as tie rod ends and ball joints.
You wouldnt put antiseize on a blower pulley/snout would you? So why do it on suspension components?
Also whenever possible support the engine from above with the following;
Lastly, it is easier for the average guy to install LT's by not dropping the K member on the S197.
Thanks,
JJ
Digital_Synapse
Senior Member
That's awesome. I'm gonna need to change my axle backs when I do LTs. These things are way too loud.
mpf
Member
I am sure you are a better tech than me, but I have used antisieze several times on those tapered fits and have had no issues.
Remember, the finely divided aluminum 'fills in' imperfections, and being soft, it crushes nicely in the high spots (imperfect fitments). Instead of having the taper fit "lock up", it allows a sliding fit. my 2cents...
I just did an install of the Kooks 1 7/8 LT's today on my car. I will NEVER do another set even if my life depended on it. Was not an easy chore at all, and I had a lift. It may have been easier if they were the 1 3/4 LT's. It took me a total of 6 hours, and 2 hours of that was trying to fish the starter back up in the engine. I did not remove the K member, but did loosen it and lower it some.
So does any one have a trick to getting the starter back up in there with using the 1 7/8 LT's? I am dreading having to change the starter if it ever goes out. I think it would be easier to pull the trainy and get to the starter that way than to try and fish it out. My arms look like raw hambuger right now...
So does any one have a trick to getting the starter back up in there with using the 1 7/8 LT's? I am dreading having to change the starter if it ever goes out. I think it would be easier to pull the trainy and get to the starter that way than to try and fish it out. My arms look like raw hambuger right now...
GeorgeInNePa
Senior Member
The starter was easy to get back in.
Of course, I had the K-member out...
Of course, I had the K-member out...
Unfortunately, to pull the tranny, you have to remove the starter first.
Usually I will usually use a long extension and a swivel socket and get to the bolts from just forward of the steering rack. It is tricky, but relativly straight forward.
The starter was easy to get back in.
Of course, I had the K-member out...
With the car already on a lift, it's all of 15 minutes tops to pop one in or out, with the k out, its cake.
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