05 gt bogs down when accelerating

tw557

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I just picked up an 05 gt. As far as I can tell and believe from the seller, it has ford racing intake and throttle body, roush Cai, different injectors and an engraved Bama placard in the engine bay. I assume it has a tune and the seller thinks he has the tuner at his other place for me. Fingers crossed. It runs perfect at 1/8 throttle. Pretty good 1/2 to full. But if I pull out quickly with 1/4 throttle it goes, bogs down for about a full second then then jumps. Or 1/4 throttle up a long hill it just won't accelerate until a bit more throttle is applied then goes good. Any ideas before I get the tuner and talk to Bama? I can track some info on the Torque app.
 

RocketcarX

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For what it's wroth the problem should not be tune related if it is as bad as you describe. Bama tuning may suck comparatively but it isn't the likely culprit.
 

tw557

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Yeah, I am hoping the tuner can take a look at what is happening and help from there. I have the TCI shifter. It seems to hesitate less when I pull out with it put manually into 1st. Hell I even pulled out in second and it didn't really bog at all. It shifts very solid but I really need to push pretty far for it to down shift in auto mode. In general it runs pretty good in manual shifting and very doggy in auto mode. And damn I keep waiting for this guy to find the damn tuner. If I need to start from scratch which tuner is most recommended.
 

RocketcarX

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I would start by pulling codes and losing at the data. You don't need a tuner for that.
 

tw557

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I have the torque app. I can check data and codes. I don't have any check engine lights though. Will there still be codes. I didn't think to check since to CEL.
 

nawagner

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In the meantime, while waiting for the tuner, clean the MAF and throttle body. Both can create throttle issues. Not usually as bad as you describe though. Also would replace the fuel filter.
 

tw557

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So even though I didn't have any CEL on, I checked the codes. I got c1145 and c1234 which come up as front wheel sensor. Would this possibly cause the issue.
 

46addict

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Yeah, I am hoping the tuner can take a look at what is happening and help from there. I have the TCI shifter. It seems to hesitate less when I pull out with it put manually into 1st. Hell I even pulled out in second and it didn't really bog at all. It shifts very solid but I really need to push pretty far for it to down shift in auto mode. In general it runs pretty good in manual shifting and very doggy in auto mode. And damn I keep waiting for this guy to find the damn tuner. If I need to start from scratch which tuner is most recommended.
To start from scratch you need to have Ford reload the stock tune into the PCM since there is already a custom tune being used. Without the handheld that was used to tune the car, there is no factory backup file to refer to and to my knowledge dealerships are the only source of stock tune files.
The best option is to get the handheld from the previous owner and hope that he can find it. As for who to go to for tuning, Lito is highly recommended but you have to be comfortable with datalogging with a laptop and doing pulls on the street. I believe VMP can send you a canned tune for your setup
via email and it will be close enough.

Before you update the tune though, you need to make sure the car is up to snuff mechanically as others have said. Inspect spark plugs & gap and make sure they're torqued down correctly. The NA cars like .045 and if the gap needs to be shortened, you should get the gapping tool from Steeda, MMR, etc even if it sucks to pay $30 for it. Also make sure the coil boots aren't damaged. If you do end up replacing the plugs I'd replace the boots at the same time because they're a maintenance item. And then check/clean the MAF & TB as said above.

I have the torque app. I can check data and codes. I don't have any check engine lights though. Will there still be codes. I didn't think to check since to CEL.
Pending fault codes won't always trigger a CEL, but they will show up on Torque. It won't hurt to check the LTFT values with it to see how far they deviate from 0. It may be worth getting Torque Pro and adding the fuel pump duty cycle PID to see where that is at.
 

tw557

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I do have torque pro. What is LTFT. I will need to give a cleaning to the other parts like mentioned also.
 

tw557

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I can't find a long term fuel trim option in my pid list. Do i need to manually enter. Also my a/f ratio does not monitor anything. Do I need to manually enter that too? Hopefully this weekend I can do some cleaning and investigating some stuff. This car is going to be a lot more fun once I get this bog gone.
 

tw557

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I took a look at a few things tonight for this bog issue. Throttle body looked great but I'm sure can be better. Moves very freely. I pulled out the maf but never saw one like that before so I didn't know what to clean but nothing looked dirty. I then started the car. Small blips after a couple minutes and hesitate and even a little pops. I pulled the maf plug and car almost stalled then right back up. Still bog but idle would drop right to 1000 instead of hang. CEL came on. Took car for a ride. Much less hesitation. But the most noticeable part was the transmission seemed to shift much better especially quicker down shifts. Would the maf affect shifting? Can I clean this or just get a new one. Can I drive without plugged in? It would be awesome if this is as easy as a maf. Also can I use a factory maf with all the mods done.
 

46addict

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The wording was slightly different. Torque calls it "fuel trim bank x long term". It's in the list of default PIDs so you don't have to manually enter it. Add a display for both banks and see where they are. AF ratio can't be obtained without an aftermarket wideband sensor connected to your phone (or an AFR gauge) because these cars do not have factory widebands.

The car does not reference the MAF readings during closed loop/warm engine (I might have open/closed loop backwards) which is how you were able to drive the car with it unplugged. You can drive the car with the stock MAF as long as your MAF count is not pegged at 900cfm (tracked with "mass air flow rate" in Torque). The MAF does not affect shifting.
 

06 T-RED S/C GT

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Unless you know the previous owner, this is exactly the reason you don't purchase a car that's been modified, especially when unable to return back to stock "OEM" calibration due to not having the hand held programmer from the seller.. Just saying :shrug:
 

tw557

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I feel bummed enough and realize I took a chance on the car. I only pulled out from a stop one time during the test drive to notice the bog. He is on vacation and CLAIM to get me the tuner Monday. I will try some data logging like the LTFT and others with Torque app. I cleaned the maf and reset the memory and no better. And the more I tested it bogs about the same with it unplugged. It also shuts down around 5000 with it unplugged. The only real difference unplugged is the transmission shifts much quicker and down shifts much quicker so it felt like it bogged less.
 

tigerhonaker

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I feel bummed enough and realize I took a chance on the car. I only pulled out from a stop one time during the test drive to notice the bog. He is on vacation and CLAIM to get me the tuner Monday. I will try some data logging like the LTFT and others with Torque app. I cleaned the maf and reset the memory and no better. And the more I tested it bogs about the same with it unplugged. It also shuts down around 5000 with it unplugged. The only real difference unplugged is the transmission shifts much quicker and down shifts much quicker so it felt like it bogged less.
Tim,

Is there a reason why you cannot simply go to a Custom Tuner and get things back the way they should be. ???

That's the exact course of Action I would take if it was mine.

Terry
 

tw557

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I'm hoping and waiting I'll get the original tuner next week. But I have made a few calls to some recommended Tuners somewhat local that should work it out like you mentioned. The only concern if it's something else that's wrong other then the tune the Tuner said he will get started then need to stop and do it again another day. But he figures if no check engine light it is probably just the tune. It will be a little costly but I've heard so much good about shop and I'm sure I will enjoy the car so much more then ever.
 

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