I've seen it both ways on the interwebs. I'd like a confirmation from some folks I trust honestly lol.
I researched a bit before removing the smog equipment on my 94, opinions are split, some say no light, others get a check engine light.
Seems like the smog pump is OK from my reading. Where trouble tends to come in is with the EGR delete.
Find out what the resistance of the egr is and put a resistor of the same ohms in the connector. Works for airbags too, lol.
Deleting the smog pump assembly won't trigger the CEL, and it's also possible to delete the EGR without triggering the CEL. The trick is to retain the EGR sensor, push the pin all the way in, and zip tie it in place (you could also use steel epoxy to bond it there permanently. If you delete the smog pump and EGR, you can also remove all the plastic vacuum lines and solenoids from under the passenger side fender. Obviously you'll need to cap off any vacuum ports to prevent leaks. Here's a vacuum diagram to guide you.
Got some work done over the Thanksgiving break: - sound deadener in the trunk, just because I had some leftovers from doing my truck. I was initially going to do under the rear seat as well, but decided it wasn't worth it. I'll do the doors when I get the replacement component speakers. - audio system - I traced down the speaker wiring that was coming from the amp, it runs back up front to the doors. I found the crossovers for the components that were in the doors. I removed them and labeled up all the speaker wires. The previous installer ran new wires to the doors through the grommets for the woofer/tweeter, so that will save some time later. - ignition components - finished up the ignition replacement with a new distributor cap/rotor and coil. Trunk: Noico sound deadener: Trunk after: Ignition parts: Ignition installed: Front passenger side speaker wiring: Front driver side speaker wiring:
Just saw this - sorry. It'll likely sit on the shelf in the garage with the other stock parts from the cars/truck. Watching a few more videos - it seems like the "easiest" thing to do is just cut up the crossover tube and swap sides, plugging the holes rather than trying to fill the holes with new inserts. This may be the route I take initially, and then do inserts when new heads come along.
No worries, I have an 87 Grand Marquis I’ve been slowly restoring. I’d be a buyer if you were going to dump the crossover and smog tube with diverter valves. On this car, the po cut the crossover just behind the check valve and pinched the tube shut. It’s been leak free but isn’t pretty lol. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Understood. I may get the inserts or the block off plates. I'm trying to keep this as pain-free as possible. In my experience, "simple" things tend to go sideways in a hurry. Especially when working on a 26 year old car.
There is a common bolt that is the right size to screw into the hole left by the crossover tubes when you pull it off. I want to say it's 1/2" by 3/4" or 1" long. There are also kits you can buy for cheap (ie..not from LMR or AM) that are basically big allen set screws that plug the holes. Two are needed. One for each head. Couple bucks at a good hardware store. EDIT: 5/8-11 is the bolt size. https://www.fastenal.com/products/details/0143989;jsessionid=Uly6fNDx9k2u9wglVKq442L5.38536438-9c19-3947-9017-bf77ad0514fd?sortby=navsattr07&r=~|categoryl1:"600000 Fasteners"|~ ~|categoryl2:"600001 Bolts"|~ ~|categoryl3:"600003 Cap Screws and Hex Bolts"|~ The bolts would be easy as they could be installed with the engine/heads still in the car.
The insert is actually used on the front of the heads and steps down the hole to a 5/16 threaded blind hole. Used for accesorries, as the heads are drilled on both ends. Its not pipe thread.
The paint is actually in really good shape (it has been painted recently). It's not a bad job, but there is some orange peel on the passenger side. I didn't notice it initially. That being said, a good claying and buffing would certainly help it. Thanks for the info...I'll see what I can source locally for the bolts. EDIT: I said screw it and just ordered the delete plates from LMR. If you're going to sink money in to something, might as well sink all the money into it.
Trust me I know how it is. I love working on the car but damn does it piss me off sometimes. It uses a lower performance version of the Mustang 302 but is different enough that I end up having to buy things specific to that car. It’s been reliable though, gotta love the sbf! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Yeah I enjoy working on the car, but like you say, it can sure piss you off. I had fits with the plugs because of that smog junk (and the headers). #4 was nearly impossible to get to...I'm still bruised from those smog lines. If I can get them off without destroying anything I can send them to you. I may work on that this weekend if I don't go camping.
The po of my 87 converted it to carb and hacked it all up. I swapped it back to factory efi, got rid of the awful hacked up headers and have been continually fixing and upgrading things as I go. I totally get the banging hands on shit under the hood lol, lucky for us the sbf is small and things like spark plugs are pretty easily to get to. Just be lucky they don’t have two piece plugs like the 3v! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Big shout out to @golkhl for the keyless module - had a nice present on the front porch when I got home today. I hopped over to eBay and found a couple of new off-brand remotes for $20. They had good reviews, so hopefully they work. Planning to dive in on the install after work today. I can't wait to bang my head on the trunk latch again. The plan for the weekend is to dive in on the smog removal. I've got a short belt and head plates/plugs ordered. They won't be here but I can at least get started on the removal.
