Watch Amazon's deals. A lot of the time they have really good tools on sale. I have gotten every ratcheting wrench on there and all Gear Wrench brand.
1994 Mustang GT money pit I mean project
- Thread starter joe_momma
- Start date
I use them for the same. Though I did buy the heaviest duty cherry picker from them and it seems well made. I also bought a floor jack recently from them that works well so far. I won't buy some things from them though (jack stands for example).
Are these eBay cold air kits worth messing with? Priced much better than the BBK offerings....
https://www.ebay.com/itm/BCP-BLACK-...del:GT&hash=item2105d72fa7:g:ncAAAOSwZ41eYV8L
https://www.ebay.com/itm/BCP-BLACK-...del:GT&hash=item2105d72fa7:g:ncAAAOSwZ41eYV8L
Id say no, it does not include a maf.
BUT
https://www.ebay.com/itm/94-95-Must...162471?hash=item446760a2a7:g:PiIAAOSwDZZfjsOH
Thanks James!
Could I not reuse my factory MAF with these or am I missing something?
Also, VICTORY in the smog removal! Stopped by HF and got a flex-head extended reach 3/8 drive ratchet and flex-head wrenches. I ended up having to take the strut tower brace off to get the required leverage, even with $100 more of new tools lol. And, I had to cut the smog tube up to get it out. It seems most of the videos I watched the guys had heater/AC removed, so there were fewer hoses and junk in the way. The passenger side was still a bitch - driver side was relatively easy with that extended ratchet. Weird, as everyone says the driver side is the difficult side. I got the tube off the H pipe too, just plugged the bung with a hose/spark plug I removed from up top until I can get it welded up when I change the mufflers and remove the cats.
I did have a question with regards to the vacuum lines - most of the videos I watched had two solenoids that were removed (these were on Foxes on the passenger side fender). Do the 94-95 not have these? I've just got the two from the check valves capped and wrapped up, but I'd like to get the lines removed to clean things up further. I didn't see any on the fender unless I was overlooking them.
I ordered an EGR fooler plug and plate from eBay. Planning on deleting those when the parts get here.
Could I not reuse my factory MAF with these or am I missing something?
Also, VICTORY in the smog removal! Stopped by HF and got a flex-head extended reach 3/8 drive ratchet and flex-head wrenches. I ended up having to take the strut tower brace off to get the required leverage, even with $100 more of new tools lol. And, I had to cut the smog tube up to get it out. It seems most of the videos I watched the guys had heater/AC removed, so there were fewer hoses and junk in the way. The passenger side was still a bitch - driver side was relatively easy with that extended ratchet. Weird, as everyone says the driver side is the difficult side. I got the tube off the H pipe too, just plugged the bung with a hose/spark plug I removed from up top until I can get it welded up when I change the mufflers and remove the cats.
I did have a question with regards to the vacuum lines - most of the videos I watched had two solenoids that were removed (these were on Foxes on the passenger side fender). Do the 94-95 not have these? I've just got the two from the check valves capped and wrapped up, but I'd like to get the lines removed to clean things up further. I didn't see any on the fender unless I was overlooking them.
I ordered an EGR fooler plug and plate from eBay. Planning on deleting those when the parts get here.
Nevermind, i was thinking that the maf was built in to the air filter housing. They did that on the 4.6's. So yes that cai you posted should work.
Dino Dino Bambino
I have a red car
The smog pump/EGR solenoids and vacuum lines are hidden behind the fender liner underneath the passenger side front fender. If you pull the fender liner out you'll have good access to remove all of that crap.
07gts197
forum member
The maf wasn’t built into the factory airbox on the 4.6 either. I think the 3.8 might have been set up like that though.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
They have the same airbox, at least my 99 gt did.
I was under the impression that anything emissions-related could be tossed. Plus it would clean up the under-hood area a bit more. It's a freaking rat nest under there as it is.
Thanks Dino. I'll dig in and see what I can find.
Just wanted to let you know of potential side effects of EGR blockoff. Sure it looks better deleted, but it has benefits having it.
Right on. I suppose I can always hook it back up if it goes sideways.
07gts197
forum member
Quit being a dumbass, im so happy you can google. I had the car and i know what was on it. Whether it was correct, who knows, i dont care. Back to his thread.
I've got to quit buying stuff or the wife is going to shoot me. I need to get these latest purchases wrapped up/installed. I've got the keyless module to get to and EGR to toy with.
I did have a question on intakes - looks like the Exploder intakes are still popular - basically a GT40 upper/lower intake? I've seen a few on eBay for decent money, but some list internal/external EGR...what's the difference, and which do I need (keep in mind I will likely delete my current EGR setup)?
I did have a question on intakes - looks like the Exploder intakes are still popular - basically a GT40 upper/lower intake? I've seen a few on eBay for decent money, but some list internal/external EGR...what's the difference, and which do I need (keep in mind I will likely delete my current EGR setup)?
It will almost certainly hit the bottom of the hood.
SN95 cars are hood clearance limited.
But the Exploder intake is popular if it fits. As are the heads from the Exploder if you want a really cheap little bump in performance. Just be careful of the GT40 v GT40P differences and the resulting headers required due to the spark plug location/angle differences.
SN95 cars are hood clearance limited.
But the Exploder intake is popular if it fits. As are the heads from the Exploder if you want a really cheap little bump in performance. Just be careful of the GT40 v GT40P differences and the resulting headers required due to the spark plug location/angle differences.
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