19x11 Offset

Discussion in 'Tires and Wheels' started by Orange_Krush, Dec 3, 2017.

  1. Norm Peterson

    Norm Peterson corner barstool sitter

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    Just cut the tie-down bulge off with a cutoff tool. The bottom flange can be left in place for bump stop use.

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    Norm
     
  2. tjm73

    tjm73 of Omicron Persei 8

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    How much improvement will all this effort and concern net over a 10" setup for any driver short of a competitive driver in competition?

    Or is this a I want to run 11" wheels cause it's "bigger" and it sounds cool and the tires look wiiiiiide kind of exercise?

    Makes me recall the late 80's/early 90's obsession with 33x21.5" pro street cars. Lots of car were built with crazy wide tires. Then along comes a bunch of guys with 9 and 10 wide tires that just destroy these big tire cars and expose them for the posers they were.

    At some point wide is wide enough.
     
  3. Norm Peterson

    Norm Peterson corner barstool sitter

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    Improved response and steering precision has to count for something. Even if you're willing to accept "measuring width" as being good enough for driving out near the limit, 10" limits you to 285/xx tires. That's not overly large at all, given the weights of these cars plus at least the driver.

    I did datalog my track wheels/tires against my street wheels/tires through the same stretch of pavement. The 285/35's on 18x11 were closer to linear and better composed at 0.91 g than the 265/40's on 18x9.5's were at nearly a whole tenth of a lateral g lower. Same tire model (MPSS), same tread width (10.2"), similar tread depth, same shock settings, similar weather conditions. The difference was clearly noticeable. Max-recommended vs measuring does make a difference.


    Norm
     
  4. tjm73

    tjm73 of Omicron Persei 8

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    I think the average driver would never know the difference and I think even the average Mustang driver over estimates their ability to know the difference and/or ability to take advantage of the added performance.
     
  5. Norm Peterson

    Norm Peterson corner barstool sitter

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    <shrug> . . . seemed an obvious enough difference to me, and I'm not by any stretch of the imagination a test driver.

    But I guess you have to go up toward 1g from time to time to have much idea what it might feel like at all, let alone how it could be made to feel any different. With that in mind maybe the average Mustang owner wouldn't pick up on it. On the other hand, .


    Norm
     
  6. HOLLYWD69

    HOLLYWD69 Junior Member

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    To be honest, I did it because I wanted a big fat tire out back, It's all about a look thing for me.
    Kinda like putting a cowl hood that you don't really need or different rims that you don't really need.
    You do it because it's your car and you like the way it looks.
    Not everything is about performance, sometimes it's just about the look.
     
  7. fuelforfire87

    fuelforfire87 Junior Member

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    Hey norm, had a question about the tie down bracket removal. What is that blueish stuff in the second photo? Is that something you added? Also looks like you removed the covers from your shocks. I have a set of 18x11 forgestar's that I'm looking to run next year. With the tie down bracket removed is there any rubbing when the rear suspension is not loaded (IE when jacking the car up to change the tires)?
     
  8. Norm Peterson

    Norm Peterson corner barstool sitter

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    The blue-ish stuff is either spray undercoating or whatever spray paint was handy (and the can still worked). It's been a while.

    I did trim the length of the boots because somewhere on the insides of the track set of rear wheels and tires was rubbing on them under some conditions (18x11, 285/35-18 MPSS).


    Norm
     
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  9. fuelforfire87

    fuelforfire87 Junior Member

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    Thanks Norm. I'm assuming the rubbing was occurring while road coursing the car and not just driving it on the street. Do you have a watts link on your car?
     
  10. Norm Peterson

    Norm Peterson corner barstool sitter

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    Actually it was happening with the axle at full droop and only with the rather deep-backspaced 18x11 Forgestars when I first trial-fitted that tire & wheel combination up (the Konis were already in place).

    No, I'm not running a Watts link. Not yet, anyway. What I am using is the OE PHB with DIY-stiffened bushings. With no rubbing so far even in track duty that's regularly been over 1.1g sustained and seen over 1.3g peak, it's kind of hard to justify spending even budget-level PHB money on something that doesn't appear to need any more help.


    Norm
     
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  11. Pentalab

    Pentalab forum member

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    I just measured 13.7" on my 2010. I know folks have installed 20 x 11's with 315's on the rear with no issues..on a 2012. The widest rears I have seen is Dimora's, who used widened 11.5" rims + 335 MPSS.. on his 08 Roush car. He did a write up here on S197.. called... 'operation steam roller'. To pull that off, he had to completely remove both rear shock boots, + that oem factory mount that Norm cut off.
     
  12. ApexRaceParts

    ApexRaceParts Official Site Vendor

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    Did someone say 11" square fitment? :p

    Our APEX EC-7 18x11" and 19x11" Mustang wheels have an offset of ET52, which were developed specifically for enthusiasts wanting to run a 11" rotatable square fitment, or a staggered fitment with 10" front wheels. The square fitment will naturally require spacers up front to ensure these wide wheels clear your suspension, and spacer thickness will simply depend on the tire size & brand used, as well as the suspension type (not all are created equal).

    As Norm indicated, coilovers that offer offset mounting points like Cortex JRi or MCS (Motion Control Suspension) are advantageous due to the extra clearance they provide for wide wheels and tires. They will reduce the spacer thickness requirement to approx. 12mm - 20mm, but they are not required for the 11" square fitment to work. Most of our customers end up using 25mm spacers with 305 tires without offset struts.

    It really comes down to purchasing the right wheel specifications, spacers and extended studs up front, and dialing in a healthy amount of negative camber.

    Wheel Specs: APEX EC-7 18x11" ET52 in Anthracite on all 4 corners
    Tires: 295/35/18 Hoosier R7 (switching to 315 soon)
    Optimum Performance Spacers: F: 20mm (for strut clearance) / R: 6.25mm
    Camber: 3.1* F /2.9* R
    Suspension: JRZ Raceline 1132 Coilovers

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    ... and on an S550 GT with 315 Hoosiers

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    Last edited: Dec 22, 2017
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  13. GallopingFord

    GallopingFord I'm Cam - Mr. Indecisive

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    Those look absolutely killer.
     
  14. ApexRaceParts

    ApexRaceParts Official Site Vendor

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    Appreciate that sir! Even better on the GT350R :eek:

    CorteX Racing brought out their GT350R for our 10 Year Anniversary Open House and we had the pleasure of shooting it in our studio, what an amazing machine!

    - APEX 19x11" ET52 EC-7 Wheels in Satin Black square
    - 305/30/19 Nitto NT01 Tires
    - 25mm Spacer upfront
    - OEM Lug Nuts (GT350R comes equipped from the factory with 3.5"+ extended studs)


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  15. o2sys

    o2sys forum member

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    Can someone school me on this? I don't understand cutting this part out for clearance when the shock is still there and still the limiting factor.
     
  16. Pentalab

    Pentalab forum member

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    The plastic cover on the shock is cut off. Norms pix depicts only the lower portion of the plastic cover on his shocks being cut off. Typ the entire cover is cut off, which buys you an additional 1/4".
     
  17. Norm Peterson

    Norm Peterson corner barstool sitter

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    For wheels with large enough backspacing, it isn't about clearance when you're driving . . . unless your driving includes "flight time".

    You can get interference when trying to remove or replace a wheel and the wheel is (obviously) sitting there at full droop. Vorshlag might have been the first entity to run into this, and I think this was discussed in their build thread for the red S197.

    Here's the thread (I think). Too big for me to search through for information I already know.

    http://www.s197forum.com/threads/vorshlag-2011-mustang-5-0-gt-track-autocross-street-project.92238/


    Norm
     
  18. modernbeat

    modernbeat Jason McDaniel @ Vorshlag

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    With the right offset on an 11" wheel you don't have to touch that bump. For a 12" rear wheel, you do have to cut it off.
     
  19. GallopingFord

    GallopingFord I'm Cam - Mr. Indecisive

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    ^ What Jason said.

    I did remove mine when I installed my 20x12 rears. I did it by using a spot weld cutter and completely removing the bracket and then painting over it so it never looked like was there. Then I installed the Zombeast bumpstop relocation kit. I've now done this twice when I had the wheels on my 2013 GT500 and then moved them over to my 09 Bullitt.

    That looks killer. Do you guys have any plans on releasing wheel fitment for Audi/VW's?
     
    jewc75 likes this.
  20. ApexRaceParts

    ApexRaceParts Official Site Vendor

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    Thank you sir. Camaro and Porsche solutions are currently production, however attacking the Audi/VW market is inevitable. It has come up in conversation around the APEX conference table quite a bit over the last couple years.