2005+ Rear Gear Oil

[NUTCASE]

there is a break in period, however you do not need to change your gear lube.

 

[jcw427]

I've got about 16000 miles on my rear end with the amsoil and the stock friction modifier. Haven't had any issues yet and the posi seems to work smoother than with the stock oil.

 

[NUTCASE]

Resurrecting this for good reason.

I have been holding on to these parts up until a month ago.

as I said in my thing, I thought I could use lucas without friction modifier because of all the shit it says on the side of the bottle.

This is completely incorrect. You NEED to use friction modifier.

I know what it says on the side of the bottle, you still need the shit.

on a different note I am trying to figure out if the whiteline transmission mount insert for coyotes will work in 05-10 cars. I will make a thread on that soon.

 

[eighty6gt]

My 8.8 has factory Ford oil in it. It sounds like it's exploding when you're turning once the grease is warmed up. Popping, grinding. I added some friction modifier, it seemed to help for a while but now worse than ever.

I have the GT500 parts in there, I might get a cheap rebuild kit from Ford Racing and change the oil/clutches and steels next spring to see how it works. The locking function isn't even that great! It will spin the inside tire under certain conditions.

 

[Riptide]

I used valvoline synthetic. I ignored the label and added a bottle of modifier. I ended up with a one tire fire at the drag strip.

Drained it put fresh fluid in. No modifier. That solved that issue.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatwat

 

[2005Redfire6]

I used valvoline synthetic. I ignored the label and added a bottle of modifier. I ended up with a one tire fire at the drag strip.

Drained it put fresh fluid in. No modifier. That solved that issue.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatwat

Good to know someone has a real life experience.

 

[JEWC_Motorsports]

I use amsoil with modifier. I dont want to hear chattering.

 

[Pentalab]

RP already has the FM in it.

The eaton tru-trac requires dino oil..and no FM. I used 75W-90 for my eaton tru-trac..works great. Also had the WL watts link installed, the WL differential cover has drain + fill plugs.

 

[NUTCASE]

Good to know someone has a real life experience.

um, my last post was a real life experience. I thought I could do it based on readings, tried it, it didn't work, I fixed it.

 

[BruceH]

um, my last post was a real life experience. I thought I could do it based on readings, tried it, it didn't work, I fixed it.

By any chance did you change clutch packs during this?

 

[eighty6gt]

Once the temp drops down to around 50F my diff doesn't chatter anymore.

What a wondrous piece of technology.

 

[NUTCASE]

By any chance did you change clutch packs during this?

yeah I upgraded to gt500 clutch packs

 

[BruceH]

yeah I upgraded to gt500 clutch packs

Did you soak the clutch packs in friction modifier prior to installation?

 

[NUTCASE]

they were soaked for about 9-10 months

I meant to get on it but then stuff happened, and like I said I finally got to it last month.

 

[quiksilver15]

Forgot about this thread. I ended up using Lucas Dino 80w-90 with a ford friction modifier. Factory LSD never made a peep or slipped up. Ford racing 4.10s were setup perfectly, never had a whine.

 

[Pentalab]

Regardless of what oil you use... make sure to install a rear axle catch can. I use the one from Bob' motor sports. Otherwise you are gonna end up with oil all over the place.... and it doesn't hold much to begin with.