2007 Mustang GT Turbo Build List - Did I forget anything?

[raredesign]

raredesign,

I have no idea what will really hold up on your Mustang but let me share a thought with you.

I have a 2008 Bullitt Mustang and they come from Ford with the GT-500 rear-end-assembly.

Some years ago I had a great deal of problems with trying to change rear-end-gears.

I finally had enough and ordered a complete Ford GT-500 Rear-End-Assembly from American Muscle.

They come with 3:73 gears.

Recently I had the rear-end-gears changed to the Ford Racing 4:10 Gears.

I'm mentioning this to you to simply say there are a heck of a lot of GT-500 Mustangs with running the power level both of us have at the rear wheels.

You might want to at least think about this as I have never had any issues at all with mine since buying it new in 2008 and it now has like 57K miles on it.

Just something maybe for you to take into consideration and just so you know I don't have ANY (Noticeable-Noise) coming from the Ford Racing installed 4:10-Gears.





Terry

Thank you for that detailed reply.
That is quite interesting, because it looks like it uses the same Traction-Lok, but is perhaps just with the Carbon discs.
http://www.americanmuscle.com/frpp-svt-rear-assembly-0512.html

I currently have the FRPP 4.10's in, and will be switching back to the 3.55's because I'm going turbo.

I take it you are using this primarily on the street and not roasting it on the track which is why it has held up. That will probably be similar to my situation as I won't do many runs at the track, and just mostly shows, meets, and cruises.

At this point, it's starting to look like worst cast, carbon discs, and they will hold on the street for a while, and if I go with the Detroit True-trac, it may be a little noisy, but will likely be what I need.

 

[tigerhonaker]

Thank you for that detailed reply.
That is quite interesting, because it looks like it uses the same Traction-Lok, but is perhaps just with the Carbon discs.
http://www.americanmuscle.com/frpp-svt-rear-assembly-0512.html

I currently have the FRPP 4.10's in, and will be switching back to the 3.55's because I'm going turbo.

I take it you are using this primarily on the street and not roasting it on the track which is why it has held up. That will probably be similar to my situation as I won't do many runs at the track, and just mostly shows, meets, and cruises.

At this point, it's starting to look like worst cast, carbon discs, and they will hold on the street for a while, and if I go with the Detroit True-trac, it may be a little noisy, but will likely be what I need.

I'm certainly not by any stretch-of-the-imagination all that knowledgeable on all the different rear-ends on the market.

I can tell you that mine has been Drag-Raced over the years a lot in the past.

It has went 10.32 @ 135.56 MPH when it was running the Saleen S/C and had 560 RWHP.






It was raced a lot back then by Brenspeed and myself.

(Not every weekend but frequently)

As the years have gone by it has still on occasions been drag-raced as the power has been increased.

Then some years ago the Saleen S/C was sold and Replaced with the Roush S/C set-up it runs currently.

The one thing that has held up over all the years is the rear-end.
(But, it also had a lot of Up-Grades when it had the Saleen S/C)

Then I backed-off on drag-racing it as much and like I said I wanted to switch rear-end-gears and that did not at all go well.
I got completely PISSED-OFF and called American Muscle and talked to one of there Manager's.
Placed the order for a brand new complete GT-500 rear-end-assembly with the 3.73 gears.
That is still in the Mustang with No-Up-Grades at all and is working just fine.

My main driving with it is for street use these days.
I did like going to the drag strips and running it some just to have fun.
But, drag-strips end up braking-parts and that buddy is not an opinion, it's a fact.
So, I'm personally tired of spending and spending and the Mustang at some Performance Shop for weeks on end year after year.
That being said I'm now going to simply drive mine and enjoy having it in my garage instead of it in some Performance Shops Building !!!

Let me share this with you about me.
I'm an older fellow and have messed with performance cars since the mid 60's when I returned from Vietnam.
I've done what many would certainly consider my fair share of playing with cars.
Now I'm simply wanting to actually drive mine and not have it broke for whatever reason and not in my garage for my use as I see fit.

When I was a heck of a lot younger what I just said above would not apply.

Terry

 

[46addict]

Much of the rest of your list increases the NVH of your car so I would not worry about clunking or ratcheting noise from a differential on an 850 rwhp car. If 850 rwhp cars were that easy to build and that easy to live with, we'd all be making at least that much.

I don't see too many items that will cause more NVH over stock. Some piston slap on cold starts with 2618 forged pistons can be expected but there are a number of guys here who don't have that problem.

 

[raredesign]

I'm certainly not by any stretch-of-the-imagination all that knowledgeable on all the different rear-ends on the market.

I can tell you that mine has been Drag-Raced over the years a lot in the past.

It has went 10.32 @ 135.56 MPH when it was running the Saleen S/C and had 560 RWHP.






It was raced a lot back then by Brenspeed and myself.

(Not every weekend but frequently)

As the years have gone by it has still on occasions been drag-raced as the power has been increased.

Then some years ago the Saleen S/C was sold and Replaced with the Roush S/C set-up it runs currently.

The one thing that has held up over all the years is the rear-end.
(But, it also had a lot of Up-Grades when it had the Saleen S/C)

Then I backed-off on drag-racing it as much and like I said I wanted to switch rear-end-gears and that did not at all go well.
I got completely PISSED-OFF and called American Muscle and talked to one of there Manager's.
Placed the order for a brand new complete GT-500 rear-end-assembly with the 3.73 gears.
That is still in the Mustang with No-Up-Grades at all and is working just fine.

My main driving with it is for street use these days.
I did like going to the drag strips and running it some just to have fun.
But, drag-strips end up braking-parts and that buddy is not an opinion, it's a fact.
So, I'm personally tired of spending and spending and the Mustang at some Performance Shop for weeks on end year after year.
That being said I'm now going to simply drive mine and enjoy having it in my garage instead of it in some Performance Shops Building !!!

Let me share this with you about me.
I'm an older fellow and have messed with performance cars since the mid 60's when I returned from Vietnam.
I've done what many would certainly consider my fair share of playing with cars.
Now I'm simply wanting to actually drive mine and not have it broke for whatever reason and not in my garage for my use as I see fit.

When I was a heck of a lot younger what I just said above would not apply.

Terry

Thank you very much for your service, and your recommendations from personal experience. That is exactly what I was looking for. Actually, I see on that americanmuscle.com part, that it says it's the Traction-Lok with "conventional" discs. Your numbers and time on it is quite the testament to the build quality of those parts, so I bet I would be fine on the street with carbon discs and stock Trac-Lok. If I have the extra cash though, I'll get the True-trac.

Great numbers btw! And thanks for the pics

 

[raredesign]

I don't see too many items that will cause more NVH over stock. Some piston slap on cold starts with 2618 forged pistons can be expected but there are a number of guys here who don't have that problem.

Yeah, that's what I was thinking with the NVH. My engine builder has an awesome reputation and also has the torque plates for the 4.6 3v, so I should be good on very close clearances.

 

[RED09GT]

I don't see too many items that will cause more NVH over stock. Some piston slap on cold starts with 2618 forged pistons can be expected but there are a number of guys here who don't have that problem.

Re-looking at the list, you are right. The LCA's are pretty much the only real contributor.
I had assumed that there were more suspension parts in there or better motor mounts, or a lot of the basics you need when trying to harness that kind of power. I was just looking at parts that were not likely to survive power-wise, my bad.

I only plan on enough races to get a good time for my board at car shows which is our main focus with this.

The best advice that I can give you is that you probably want to do some more research on what you need to get the power to the ground and keep control while doing it. 850 rwhp is enough to propel one of these cars to 150 mph in the 1/4 mile and a lot can go wrong in a short period of time at those speeds. I would advise against building it just enough to try and hit this or that number.

In my opinion, lower control arms and relocation brackets aren't going to cut it with even 3/4 of that rwhp on a stick shift car. You'll need, shocks, struts, a stiffer UCA, mount, and a differential bushing as well.

 

[raredesign]

Re-looking at the list, you are right. The LCA's are pretty much the only real contributor.
I had assumed that there were more suspension parts in there or better motor mounts, or a lot of the basics you need when trying to harness that kind of power. I was just looking at parts that were not likely to survive power-wise, my bad.




The best advice that I can give you is that you probably want to do some more research on what you need to get the power to the ground and keep control while doing it. 850 rwhp is enough to propel one of these cars to 150 mph in the 1/4 mile and a lot can go wrong in a short period of time at those speeds. I would advise against building it just enough to try and hit this or that number.

In my opinion, lower control arms and relocation brackets aren't going to cut it with even 3/4 of that rwhp on a stick shift car. You'll need, shocks, struts, a stiffer UCA, mount, and a differential bushing as well.

I appreciate your insight, and I'm on board. Unfortunately, I can't afford suspension at the moment, and hope to do it next year. Thank you for pointing out about the motor mounts. That's the kind of stuff I am afraid to overlook. Are all aftermarket created equal or do you know of a good set with low noise? I would imagine the difference being the quality of bushings between, right?

Thanks again for the help.

 

[RED09GT]

I switched the the prothane after one of my stockers failed. I was hoping to use the stockers until I went to a BMR k-member, it didn't work out. They definitely increased NVH but not to the point that it upset me. I don't know of any that will be as civilized as the stock ones. I wouldn't doubt it if the heat from the turbo downpipe was the cause since the stockers are fluid filled and it appears to have just started to ooze out.

To this point, I have broken my spider gears in my stock diff, torn the rear differential bushing, collapsed a motor mount, and smoked the stock clutch. This is with a stock longblock, a turbo, and drag radials. My center bearing on my driveshaft moans and groans pretty badly now too.

You've addressed all the other failure points so I just added the ones where things went wrong for me. Others have had better luck with those parts than I have, others have had other parts fail.

 

[raredesign]

I switched the the prothane after one of my stockers failed. I was hoping to use the stockers until I went to a BMR k-member, it didn't work out. They definitely increased NVH but not to the point that it upset me. I don't know of any that will be as civilized as the stock ones. I wouldn't doubt it if the heat from the turbo downpipe was the cause since the stockers are fluid filled and it appears to have just started to ooze out.

To this point, I have broken my spider gears in my stock diff, torn the rear differential bushing, collapsed a motor mount, and smoked the stock clutch. This is with a stock longblock, a turbo, and drag radials. My center bearing on my driveshaft moans and groans pretty badly now too.

You've addressed all the other failure points so I just added the ones where things went wrong for me. Others have had better luck with those parts than I have, others have had other parts fail.

Your advice will likely save me some major headache, so thanks. I'll add the items to the list and be mindful when building.

I had a sponsorship in labor at a shop, but it sat there for 2 years, so I had to move on. Now I am trying to get my car and all the parts back and going to work on it myself and enlist local help. It's been a hard situation for my family. Even my 5 year old remembers it from when he was 3 and asks when we get our car back.

 

[RED09GT]

That's great when the kids get involved. My oldest was 4 at the time and was almost inconsoleable when mommy told him that daddy's car was broken after the spider gears let go at the track. I can't imagine what he was picturing in his head at the time.

 

[raredesign]

Awe. Poor little guy. Yeah kids imaginations and simple interpretations are great.

 

[tigerhonaker]

Thank you very much for your service, and your recommendations from personal experience.
Great numbers btw!
And thanks for the pics

Your welcome and Good-Luck with your's.

Terry