2008 Stage 3 ROUSH - Rebirth...

Smokievol

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FnSweet has gone thru an upgrade that has gone to hell. Hope they can figure it out.

Looking Sweet, Can't wait to watch the entire build unfold.

Looks like a good time to paint the axle and other rusting parts on the backend.
 

AutoXRacer

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Your top end was starved for oil judging by the cam journals. So you think the thrust bearing went out on it's own or do you think it was starved for oil too and slowly self destructed until it was too late? What did the main and rod bearings look like?

Funny that you say that. I've sent that picture of the cam journals to a few shops and they all said that looks normal... sigh And I took their word for it.
When I first saw it, I thought that was catastrophic!!!

No one was able to give me an idea of what happened.
All I know is that I started having VCT issues. The car would randomly run like crap during hard braking (like autocrossing and crossing the finish line). I would shut it down and start back up and everything was fine.

Then one day, it just got worst... Last year I was headed to the Griots Garage SVT meeting and on the way there, the motor started running like crap. Got a CEL for the first time saying cams were over-retarded.
Aborted the trip, took the car to the dealers and a few hours later dealer says I have metal in the oil, VCT solenoids choked with metal debris, and that I need a new motor.

So, I would have to guess the thrust bearing started disintegrating, clogged VCT solenoids, eventually starving the heads of oil.

Thats my guess...

The bottom end looked perfect...except for the boss where the thrust bearing contacts...that got worn. :(


Oh damn!!! Tried to log into FnSweet and got this message:
There is a serious error and the page cannot be rendered

How I am I going to get all my posts/pictures now!!?? uh... :(
 
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Well, hopefully I don't leave out the details from the original post...
I found some stuff I saved...

Rear springs - Steeda vs ROUSH

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Fays Watts Link

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Here is the infamous thrust bearing... sigh

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Kooks headers and mid-pipe!!

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Parts piling up!

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Finally, my new Tremec T-56 Magnum XL!!!!

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Driveshaft

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And for the highlight...the motor!!!

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VMP oversized elbow

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123mm Cobra Jet MAF and GT40 air tube

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90mm VMP Tunung/Steeda MAF vs 123mm Cobra Jet

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Super Cobra Jet mono-blade vs stock 4.6L throttle body

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Stock ROUSH elbow vs VMP Tuning

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Shelf full of small parts for install!!

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Garage full of parts!!!

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New PA Performance alternator

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New PA Performance starter

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Metco billet pulleys and Steeda HD belt tensioner install on new engine

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Water pump

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Headers installed

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Knock sensors, head temp sensors, and coolant bypass

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And some more stuff installed... lol

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Clutch

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Bell housing

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And here we go!!

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Belts installed

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Now transmission; stock vs T-56

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GT40 air tube vs ROUSH TVS

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T-56 done!!

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Induction system installed

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AFCO racing radiator

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Stock vs AFCO

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Ready to drop in.

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Coolant tanks and steering reservoir

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Steeda double driveshaft safety loop

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[/QUOTE]

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Also had to install a Shelby oil pressure adapter so I can add an additional oil pressure sensor for my Aeroforce gauge since Ford does not monitor oil pressure. It only has a dummy light.

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She is all set for first time start up!!!

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Initial start up (video)



Oil after 20 min run time (break-in)

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I had to modify the hood so that the supercharger pulley has clearance between the hood.

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She's ready for break-in!!!!

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AutoXRacer

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I had to remove the ROUSH Extreme exhaust because it was soooooo LOUD!!!



Revs



I replaced it with the original ROUSH off-roads



Revs



I installed the smaller pulley on my PA alternator and fully loaded the electrical system, 13.9 volts at idle!! WAHOO!! We are back in business!!

I also wrapped my ROUSH off-road mufflers in DynaMat Extreme...I know some of you may cringe, but its made quite a significant difference.
I should have started with this before lining the whole trunk area.

Before:
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After:
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I lined the trunk with DynaMat Extreme and then added their DynaPad padding; basically used the trunk carpet as a template and place the DynaPad under the carpet.

It make quiet a significant difference. The drone and exhaust sound are still present, but the drone no longer makes your brain hurt. All the sound dampening took off the harsh edge of the drone.

Wrapped off-roads; I know its ugly, but the drone is just horrible:

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After wrapping the mufflers, the drone as really settled down. Now, the cabin noise is mostly exhaust sound and not actual drone. I wouldn't say the drone has been eliminated, but it has surely been reduced enough to make driving the car pleasant again!!

I am so impressed with this DynaMat, that I would love to line the whole cabin floor. I think I will leave that for next years winter project!!

This weekend I also installed BMR's new CB004 brace that ties in the k-member to the radiator support.

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Before:
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After:
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Seems like the newer Mustangs all bring a version of this bracing, but the 05-10 did not.

OK, so this is not a fully edited production video. I just wanted to share a snip-it of the car.



This was an approx 30-110 MPH pull. This is how I've been doing my remote data logging for my current tuner. Data logging with LiveLink software and video.
But I am up to the point where I need to schedule dyno time. When I was doing WOT pulls to 4,000 RPM the street was fine, 4,500 to 5,000 RPM, OK but pushing it...but now 6,500 RPM to probably 7,200 RPM next time...not sure I want to get arrested for doubling/tripling the speed limit. LOL

Just thought I'd give you guys a little something. I have a dyno day on March 16th which I'm hoping to have the car dialed in with my current tuner as close as possible to "safe" max power. I don't think it will make the power that is in JDM's tune, I'm hoping so, but we will have to see. JDM suggested I don't go over the 650rwhp mark; they said beyond that is pushing it on pump fuel. E85 or race fuel and they would gladly recommend +700 rwhp.

Whats sad is I'm making so many WOT pulls, that the car is no longer feeling as fast. LMAO
Although when I load JDM's tune (which I don't use due to driveability issues that have not been resolved), it scares the living crap out of me. LOL

Currently I'm out of fuel. At the time of the video above, I'm at 98% duty cycle of the fuel pumps...meaning no more capacity. This is at 9 degree of timing and roughly 11.2 AFRs which are on the rich side. But one I resolve my fueling limitations, timing will be bumped which will lean out the AFRs.
After researching various fuel systems, I opted to keep the GT500 fuel pumps and simply add a voltage booster I purchased from VMP Tuning; very similar to a Kenne Bell BAP, but better. This should reduce my duty cycles to roughly 80%. I am also upgrading some wiring around the FPDM and fuel pumps to further decrease duty cycles.
I may even replace the OEM fuel hardline that connects to the fuel rails due to an extreme restriction in that line.

Here is reason #253 why not to data log on public roads:


(passed him at 110 MPH in a 50 MPH zone)

I went to a dyno day on the 16th at The Mustang Shop in Auburn, WA. I took the opportunity to do some WOT data logging for Lito's tune.

Here are all the people that dynoed!!!

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I dynoed twice since I was data logging and tuning; I was number 22 and 40 (which did not get added to the list).

Here are my two plots:

This one was my 2nd back to back pull on the first session; motor was HOT.
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This one was my first pull on the second session; cold motor.
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Here are a couple of videos.

Pull #3 inside cabin


Pull #3 outside



Tuning is still not complete. I am running into too much boost; peaking at +20 PSI and thats not good on pump gas.
I am looking for a smaller snout pulley in the 3.0"-3.1" size to lower boost 2-3 PSI.

So more to come!!

The dyno figures above at on a 91 octane tune with 14 degrees timing, which these motors typically see 17-19 degrees.

Quick update!!

The car is back at the shop finally finishing up the JDM tune since I had to lower my boost. Car is currently peaking at 16 PSI. So WOT ranges from 14-16 PSI.
The tune is currently set at 15 degrees timing and yeilded disappointing numbers...at least to me. Others may think those are great numbers.

A complete WOT run yeilded 590rwhp according to the shop. And a second run with higher IATs yeilded 560rwhp. Yeah, I am not liking this... I did not buy a 800HP built motor to run it at these mediocure power levels.

I was perfectly happy being in the 640-650rwhp range with 600-615rwtq. This is where I want to be since JDM did say this is where they tune their customer's cars running pump gas.

So I asked the shop about asking JDM to bump up the timing since boost has been reduced by 4-5 PSI. I imagine you can run 17 degrees very safely with 91-92 octane. I believe most run 19 degrees with 93 octane. But the extra 2 degrees will only buy me roughly 20rwhp if I'm lucky.
 
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AutoXRacer

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So more to come...
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The shop will also install a set Magnaflow resonators I bought hopefully on Friday.

The 2,000 RPM drone from the ROUSH off-roads is still bugging me!!! So I just ordered two Magnaflows: http://www.magnaflow.com/02product/s...=main&id=10865
Its basically the Pypes M80, but the Magnaflow version. I chose Magnaflow because I was pretty much subliminally sold with all the Magnaflow advertising on the Speed Channel and Discovery with all the car builder shops and SEMA... lol I figured it had to be better quality than Pypes.

Anyway, what I am basically doing is combining ROUSH Extreme axle pipes to ROUSH off-road mufflers. I have read in other forums where installing Pypes M80s before the axle (like in the extremes) will eliminate or greatly reduce the drone the ROUSH off-roads/Borla Stingers produce. If only this came to me when I first purchased my ROUSH Extreme exhaust...or the stupid dealership would have never welded the damn kit. sigh Yes, I'm still mad!!! lol
Let's see what this yields. With the new transmission, I am constantly at the 2,000 RPM sweet spot...DRONE-O-RAMA!!! sigh

The car is disappointing...
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Finalized the tunes and this is where I'm at:
RWHP: 595
RWTQ: 572

This is at 14-16 PSI and 15 degree timing. They won't push it any further due to the fuel that is available in my area; 92 octane (tuned for 91).

I am highly disappointed with JDM Engineering!!

I clearly stated my goals, 700rwhp and I was told it would be possible, more realistically 675rwhp.
Once all is said and done, motor built, paid, and delivered. JDM states their cars don't leave their shop with more than 650rwhp running pump gas.

OK, I settle with 650rwhp and my car actually dynoed at 647rwhp and 614rwtq. Then boost is too high at peak 19-20PSI.
I am told to lower boost to 14-16 PSI range.

Car dynoed at the numbers above, JDM Engineering now tells me 600rwhp is the max they are willing to go. I am welcomed to increase the power, but not to call them when the engine blows. sigh

So I spent $17,000 on an engine that is only capable of making 600rwhp on pump gas. 100rwhp less than my goal. If I would have known that from the start, I would have ordered a stock crate motor from Ford and called it a day.
I would have saved ten of thousands!!! As this build is north of $46,000. And all I have to show for it is 600rwhp.

!@#$%^&*()_ I could have bought a 2013 GT500 and made +700rwhp on pump gas.

Yes I am furious!!!!

I can make my goal HP if I run race fuel or E85. Race fuel is too expensive and not readily available and E85 is not readily available either.

Moral of the story...no matter how much you spend, you will be limited to 600rwhp with pump gas.

So... Some more updates.

In order to try to hit my horsepower goals. I thought about methanol/water injection as a way to increase octane and cool off IAT (intake air temps).
My ideal goal at this time would be to regain the power and torque I had with the original 2.8" Phase 3 pulley; 650HP/620TQ roughly.

Surprisingly the horsepower difference is not much:



After some research from my tuner Lito, he realized I am running the Tremec T-56 Magnum XL Wide Ratio transmission with the original stock 3.55 gears.
After plugging in some numbers on a spreadsheet and calculating gear ratios, RPM vs speed, etc revealed that I am over-driving the car!!!
Lito figured out that even with 3.90 or 4.10 gears, I would still be taller than the stock TR3650!!

A few more calculations revealed that 4.10 gears would increase torque to roughly 95 ft/lbs in each gear...a lot more than I would get with a meth/water injection system.
He also said it would be like driving a brand new car (totally different).

So, I have an appointment at The Mustang Shop on Monday to swap out the 3.55 gears with 4.10s.
I should get back the original 2.8" Phase 3 pulley feeling back and then some!!!

We believe this mod will satisfy my pull cravings!!

More to come!!

Due to having to ditch the ROUSH Extreme exhaust because it was WAY TOO LOUD with my new setup, I went back to the ROUSH Off-Road mufflers.
The sound greatly reduced and the tone was definitely deeper but mellower...

Driving with the Off-Roads was a different story though... The 2,000 RPM drone was massively unbearable!! It was so brutal it made your brain hurt!!
I tried Dynamatting the whole trunk, which helped take the edge off...but the drone was still quite loud.

I did some research and read about some owners installing a second pair of mufflers right before the axle. Kind of like a ROUSH Extreme exhaust with Off-Road mufflers.

So, I ordered a pair of Magnaflow 4" round mufflers; here are the results!!

I noticed a much deeper rumble...but quieter exhaust.
It definitely makes it seem like you are driving with a stock exhaust in the car... At WOT you will hear the exhaust (off-roads) but you will hear all the engine noises too. I hear the TVS whine if that tells you anything. And that's a quiet supercharger. LOL

Here are some pictures of the installation:

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As you can see, the shop was not able to install them close to the rear axle because they (mufflers) are 20" long.

One thing I didn't know is that the ends of the mufflers/resonators are expanded to fit over 2.5" pipes; at least that's what the shop told me. Since they couldn't install them close to the axles due to a bend in the over axle pipes, they chose to install them right after the mid-pipe.
Actually the mufflers/resonators inlet slip onto the mid-pipe and get clamped with the stock clamps. The shop then welded the other end (outlet) of the muffler/resonators to the axle over pipes. I am not sure how much they cut off the pipes since both ends of the muffler/resonator have approximately 3" of pipe which the 2.5" axle over pipes slip into.

Update, looking at Magnaflow's website/specs, seems like the inlet/outlet is 2.25" which would lead me to believe the muffler/resonator actually slips into the factory 2.5" pipes and not the other way around like the shop told me.

BTW, its extremely hard to find quality shops these day. This time I went to a Custom Speed Shop where they build wicked classics like a twin turbo '57 Chevy, 700rwhp Ford Lightning, and the other day they had a $350K Panoz. So you would think their work would be flawless AA quality.
Well, let me tell you NOPE!!! Once again, just like when I had the Extremes installed by the Ford dealer, my tips were out the ***!!! Meaning my tips protruded pass the bumper!!! That's not how ROUSH designed them to be!!!! And I argued with the shop about this... I told them leave the tips alone they are perfectly centered and flush with the rear valence. Well, when I pulled into the parking lot, the first thing I noticed were my tips!!! Left side was lower then the right and they stuck out and looked like ***!!!!

How is it that a hobby mechanic like myself is able to perform quality work where things are measured, even, and perfectly symmetrical? And a shop that works on $100K cars, that has been doing it for 15-20 yrs can't do what I do in my home garage with simple hand tools!!!!????

If I knew this from the start, I would have not taken it to a shop and done it myself; the only reason I let the shop do is because I thought they needed to be welded and the car was already there getting the JDM tune finalized... I just would have used clamps on both ends of the Magnaflows. The only warning is that the way the shop installed mine and due to the size of the Magnaflows, they had to tack weld both mufflers/resonators together to prevent the possibilities of rattling since they are so close to each other. I personally don't think they would have rattled. But I understand why the shop did it.

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Overall, this mod is amazing in terms that it eliminated the drone!!! I even had a cell phone conversation where the other person could not hear my exhaust while cruising at 2,000 RPM. lol
I'm still getting used to it. I have mixed feeling as its really quiet inside and with the combination of the car being less powerful and can't get over a feeling of disappointment...quiet and slow... sigh
Totally makes me feel like I'm driving a done stock car... LOL

A two week update:

The exhaust seems louder now...its actually me getting used to the new exhaust levels. I really like the interior exhaust sound!! Its no longer obnoxiously loud and there is much less if any interior resonance. The verdict is still out whether the exterior loudness of the exhaust has decreased. Seems like it to me. :(
But I will add the exhaust tone is much much deeper...like subsonic!!! LOL
Its not LOUD, but if you walk passed the rear of the car, it makes things vibrate...pant legs, boxes, plastic bags, etc...
While driving through underground parking lots and even regular parking lots, alarms go off...but my exhaust is not loud...its the deep bass/vibrations that set it off. LOL
All you hear in parking garages is the deep tone vibrations bouncing off all the walls. lol

I wish the exhaust was a little louder, with loud comes a higher pitch. My exhaust no longer has any pitch at all...its all low bass... lol

BTW, I went to Race Wars two weekends ago and got my butt handed to me by a ZL-1 Camaro!!!
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To my defense, the Camaro had drag tires as I just had summer tires. I was not able to get traction until 4th gear. And that was at part throttle!!!! Although I have to say that once I hit 4th gear I started to instantly catch up on his rear...but by then race was over... sigh

My tuner Lito said "You wanted torque, there you go..." LMAO!!!

Needless to say... I need to find a couple of ROUSH Forged 18s and slap some drag radials on them for these types of events.
Some suspension tweaks are also underway to increase rear wheel traction.

EPIC FAIL


I went to Race Wars in Royal City, WA. I went with the mind set to check it out and only spectate.
Well, we got there and it was slow...meaning not many people were there and cars were just hot lapping. So, I decided to run the car.

This is where the epic fail comes in... sigh



I had no traction at part throttle what so ever!!! I spun all the way through 3rd gear short shifting. Once I got into 4th, the car took off and pull amazingly hard!! I could see myself catching up to the ZL-1 really quick...but by then race was over...
BTW, the Camaro had some kind of drag tires...they had two small grooves on the outer edges, other than that they were solid chunk rubber. lol

I only ran the car twice... There was absolutely no traction what so ever off the line; feathering it, part throttle, nothing... The best I could do was wait to get through the first 3 gears, then go all out, but by then the race was over...
So I called it quits. Didn't want to beat the car pointlessly.

I was IMing with Lito my tuner and telling him of my traction issues. He wanted some data logs to see how the car handled the heat. He said, "you wanted torque. there you go." LOL

Whats sad is that ZL-1 Camaro was part of a 3 car stable; ZR-1 Covette and CTS-V Cadillac.
I was in line/staging lanes and some older guy comes to my car and asks me if I was running anyone. I said nope. He asked me if I was willing to race a Camaro, I said sure, why not. lol
Once I saw the car, I knew I was getting my *** handed to me. lol
These cars belong to a shop and they come out to Race Wars year after year...there are plenty of videos on You Tube featuring their runs.

To make myself feel better, I saw how fast I was pulling on him once I got traction, I know my car is way faster. lol That's my story and I'm sticking to it...

But there goes my "street cred".... LMAO
(a la Fast and Furious)

I need to find a set of 18x10s (ideally same as mine - forged ROUSH) and slap some drag radials on there just for events like this.
 

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Now let me try to fill in the holes... lol

Here is a pic of the ported TVS

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This was done to match the VMP over-sized elbow. The stock elbow has a much smaller opening.

Here is it mated to the elbow.

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I also had to add the Shelby oil adapter so I could run add an oil pressure sensor since my car did not come with one from factory. And since my oil engine partially died due to oil issues, I thought this would be a good idea to monitor.

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To mate the T-56 Magnum XL custom driveshaft to the stock 8.8" axle, the driveshaft comes with an adapter.

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After installing the elbow and throttle body, I found out the VMP elbow did not have provisions for the PCV system. I asked JDM if I could run breather catch cans, but they highly advised against it.

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So I had to mod the elbow.

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As I was adding a port to the elbow, I noticed how rough the inside surface was. It felt like 1000 grit sand paper.

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So I decided to smooth it out!!

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And here is the port I added for the PCV system.

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I wanted to run a driveshaft safety loop with my new setup. I struggle with that venture too...

I first tried a Metco version...

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But that did not work with the new cross member for the T-56.

Returned it and ordered a Steeda double loop...
 

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In the meantime, here is the stock ROUSH air tube vs FRPP GT40 air tube.

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Its massively much larger!!

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Stock ROUSH MAF housing vs FRPP 123mm MAF.

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Another issue I found was that the FRPP GT40 air tube also did not have provisions for the PCV system. So I tapped the plastic fitting and added a barb hose connection.

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I also had to add a switch for the T-56 reverse lockout solenoid. It was too hard to engage reverse with the solenoid unpowered.

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I wired it up using the cigarette lighter/12V port in the center console.

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I also added an indicator light just so it reminds me its on and I don't shift into reverse at highway speeds. Tremec told me you can shift into reverse at 60 MPH!!!! Yes, it does require some discipline. lol I later found an electronic module that automatically enables and disables the lockout solenoid. At speeds of 0-15 MPH its enabled, above 15 MPH, it deactivates it. It runs about $100 or so. I have yet to install it... lol

Another issue with using the GT40 air tube is that it contacts the PCV tube/connector.

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The AFCO aluminum radiator is a really nice piece!! Amazingly so much larger than stock.

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Stock fan bolts up nicely

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It does not take up much more room either...totally bolt in!!!

Added a set of Canton reservoirs

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So here is the Steeda double loop driveshaft safety loop.

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Partially bolted in...issues with the transmission cross member again. sigh

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The other issue is that the front loop is useless as its sits forward of the front yoke.

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Rear loop is fine.

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So I installed it using only the rear loop.

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In order to make it work with I had to add spacers to the cross member due to interference issues.

Kooks mid-pipe catted H

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Metallic high-flow cats

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I was worried about clearance...but they fit!!!!

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With cats

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Uh oh...

I had to position them a little lower due to the stupid driveshaft spacers I had to add.

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So I installed the Shelby oil adapter on the driver side right by the strut tower.

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Here you can see the OEM pressure switch and the Aeroforce oil pressure sensor.

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After starting the engine for the first time, I noticed the Aeroforce oil pressure data was all over the place. Readings were fluctuating +/- 20 PSI. So I installed a mechanical gauge in the engine bay.

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During my journey, I got the opportunity to compare a Mobil 1 filter that I used to use on my original engine vs a FRPP oil filter.

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I was worried about clearance...but they fit!!!!

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With cats

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Uh oh...

I had to position them a little lower due to the stupid driveshaft spacers I had to add.

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So I installed the Shelby oil adapter on the driver side right by the strut tower.

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Here you can see the OEM pressure switch and the Aeroforce oil pressure sensor.

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After starting the engine for the first time, I noticed the Aeroforce oil pressure data was all over the place. Readings were fluctuating +/- 20 PSI. So I installed a mechanical gauge in the engine bay.

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Here is a video of voltage vs display:



During my tuning with Lito, the fuel system was maxed out... Had to add a voltage booster. I went with VMP Tuning's booster.

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Easiest wiring I have ever done...super easy if you already have the GT500 fuel system.

Sorry for jumping all over the place...going back to the Steeda driveshaft, I had to get rid of it. While driving in parking lots with speed bumps, the exhaust would scrap. Removing the driveshaft safety loop allowed me to shift the exhaust slightly higher and relieve the scraping condition. Although on steep driveways/tall speed bumps, I still slightly scrap...guess the suspension is too low... lol
 

AutoXRacer

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I did find a T-56 Magnum XL specific driveshaft safety loop made by Lakewood!!!

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Although, mine has been on order since February...they are having manufacturing issues. Latest info I got is late July...its a month to month slide now. lol


I may have to cancel my order though. After installing the resonators, they sit right where this safety loop would bolt on to...

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Recently, after my 3.55 to 4.10 gear swap, I had to reset my Watts Link. The shop that worked on my car sort of fudged it all up. sigh

I got these neat blocks to work on the suspension while loaded!!

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They are 12" high. Lots of room underneath to work...wish I had these during the build.

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When I went to Race Wars about two-three month ago and got my butt handed to me by a ZL-1. I had to get rubber!!! Traction is futile!!! lol

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I got so lucky to find someone selling a set of ROUSH Forged wheels with MTs already installed on them...it was destiny... lol

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I also lowered my LCA one hole...now set to the middle hole.

Traction is amazing!!! I can smoke them at will...but I can now launch and actually move forward!!! I need to find that ZL-1 now...

I had a clinking noise in the front end...drove me crazy for months on end. Everything is new except for the sway bar end links, but I inspected them and there was nothing obviously wrong with them. Everything was torqued to spec, couldn't find the cause of the noise. So I ended up ordering a new set of end links just to take that variable out. Ordered a set of Shelby Race Links:

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Really nice pieces and surprisingly much lighter in weight.

Verdict...noise gone!!!!
 
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AutoXRacer

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Oh and regarding the PA Performance alternator, that was also a fiasco!!!
I had to get rid of it due to fluctuating voltages throughout the RPM range. At 3,500 and 4,500 RPM voltage would drop to 12.2.

We tried different size pulleys with no luck. PA even replaced the regulator with no resolution. Went back to the stock alternator and have 14.2 solid.
That stocker is such an eye sore.

Are there any other options for higher amperage alternators?
I keep reading its stock or nothing.

My current issue is mitigating my oil consumption issue. For details see this thread: http://www.s197forum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=103481

Basically, I have come to the conclusion that the oil consumption is due to the PCV system sucking oil out of the driver side valve cover.
I installed an oil separator and the amount of oil being collected pretty much matches the amount of oil I am having to add.
I will be installing a breather catch can setup and eliminating the PCV system.
 
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cmg427

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Glad to see you bring it over here Gerald since FnSweet has been a fnmess. Week long upgrade has turned into 5 weeks and counting. Hope Shay doesnt lose too many members, not like there is a lot of us as there is.
 

AutoXRacer

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Glad to see you bring it over here Gerald since FnSweet has been a fnmess. Week long upgrade has turned into 5 weeks and counting. Hope Shay doesnt lose too many members, not like there is a lot of us as there is.

Haha... I keep checking it everyday with hopes that it works...
I am slowly losing hope... :(
 

BruceH

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Funny that you say that. I've sent that picture of the cam journals to a few shops and they all said that looks normal... sigh And I took their word for it.
When I first saw it, I thought that was catastrophic!!!

No one was able to give me an idea of what happened.
All I know is that I started having VCT issues. The car would randomly run like crap during hard braking (like autocrossing and crossing the finish line). I would shut it down and start back up and everything was fine.

Then one day, it just got worst... Last year I was headed to the Griots Garage SVT meeting and on the way there, the motor started running like crap. Got a CEL for the first time saying cams were over-retarded.
Aborted the trip, took the car to the dealers and a few hours later dealer says I have metal in the oil, VCT solenoids choked with metal debris, and that I need a new motor.

So, I would have to guess the thrust bearing started disintegrating, clogged VCT solenoids, eventually starving the heads of oil.

Thats my guess...

The bottom end looked perfect...except for the boss where the thrust bearing contacts...that got worn. :(


Oh damn!!! Tried to log into FnSweet and got this message:
There is a serious error and the page cannot be rendered

How I am I going to get all my posts/pictures now!!?? uh... :(

I've seen a few can journals and that's not normal. You had the right idea at first. I'd think that debris would of been picked up by the oil filter so my guess would be it was an oil starvation issue. You will never know for sure though.

So you bought a longblock from JDM to replace the motor and while you were at it decided to do everything else too, lol. Magnum trans, suspension, etc.

As I remember it my whipple sucked more oil into the catch can than any of my centri or n/a setups. As long as you know where it's coming from and it's not excessive there isn't any harm being done. Anything less than a quart between oil changes would be acceptable imo. The worst think that's happening is all the nasty stuff is being pulled out and replaced with fresh oil from time to time. It's your call though and it looks like you are going breather so good luck with the setup.
 

Bill220

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That is one hell of a build.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

808muscle

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Holy shit this thread is amazing.....where do I start????

First, fnsweet is a fnmess. WTF were they thinking? Turn that new upgrade shit off and go back to what worked for years.

Gerald I gotta give you some props dude. You have done the dream ( or nightmare:thud:) build that many of us think about. The parts you selected were second to none. I am like going ape shit reading each caption for every picture.....simply WOW. Thanks for mentioning the $46k number.....that brings it into reality and yes foregoing the build and just buying a 13 GT500 should be a consideration. I know if it was me, I would probably go that route simply because the shipping charges alone would add 25% to the cost (the joy of living on Maui). I cant imagine running your car at the drags with street tires. My 425 HP is nothing but spin without DRs. Looking forward to your new ETs and redemption with that Camaro.
And your description of how mid mounted resonators change the tone is spot on. It was a huge improvement on my car and I also have the deep deep bass tone at idle.......I love it, its quite nasty.

Congrats on an amazing car.
 

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