Note: A VOM/Test light is needed to ID/Test/Verify power is available where needed. Also needed are crimpers, butt connectors and heat shrink or soldering iron (depending on how you like to do splices) and it's a good idea to get a few "test" wires with alligator clips on both ends so you can clip onto wires under test hands free with the VOM. Otherwise it can be very difficult at times to hold and manipulate test leads when trying to get readings.
Splice into wires closest to the point where you need it. For the doors remove the plastic door skins and ID wires that provide power to light up the switches (pos/neg) when the parking lights are turned on. Cut (or strip insulation from) the wires so you can splice into them for the fiber optics. Don't cut too close to the switches (give yourself room to work). Once ID'd test the new lights to be sure they work and splice in (pos to pos and neg to neg) the new wires. Then use heat shrink insulation ensuring positive and negative wires are insulated from each other. Test again before buttoning up.
"Add a Fuse" is a synonym for a fuse that plugs in where a regular fuse goes. It uses two fuses (one to replace the regular fuse and the other to supply the circuit element you're adding).
Get the mini version: Link below. For the dash look for power that turns on with the parking lights at one of the fuses at the SJB (passenger footwell). Once identified plug in the "Add a Fuse" and run the 12v line to the light strip you're powering. For the negative side of the light (the one you're adding) put an eye on it and connect/bolt it to one of the grounds behind the dash (there are several behind the passenger glove compartment). Test the light. Then zip tie the wires to existing harnesses where needed and you're good to go. If you need help there are tons of UTube vids to view on the subject.
Good Luck