3650 tear down/install

RetroGT2006

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This is impressive.. I am the same way as Brian aka Skwerl, If I took it apart, it will never go back together.. Or at least correctly.. This is awesome!
 

BeachMonkey100

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It's really just a big puzzle, if everything is labeled correctly and bagged it's actually not that bad, when taking one part off at a time you really see how that part works and what it does. Then putting it back together is really just the reversal of taking it apart. Taking your time and being patient is key, there are a lot of tiny little parts that need to be taken out with a magnet in order for them not to be misplaced, other than that it's pretty straight forward.
 

fdjizm

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100% completely and utterly lost. I'm impressed, and I'll be leaving any and all transmission work to folks like yourself who understand it. The one thing I've gained from this is the absolute knowledge that I have no business opening up a transmission because there's no way in hell it will ever go back together.

I did that shit and had no idea what I was doing, but I learned :thumb2:
and I have the trans back together correctly.
 

joe_momma

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100% completely and utterly lost. I'm impressed, and I'll be leaving any and all transmission work to folks like yourself who understand it. The one thing I've gained from this is the absolute knowledge that I have no business opening up a transmission because there's no way in hell it will ever go back together.

I have a BS in industrial technology from one of the top engineering schools in the Southeast, and concur with skwerl. Totally. Lost.
 

Racer47

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OP, nice job with the pics and explanation. I have been tempted to do my trans and rebuild it with the g-force kit. Its a 26 spline input and better, more evenly spaced ratios. I just have not had the time or ambition to do it yet.

http://www.gforcetransmissions.com/tran_3650.asp
 
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BeachMonkey100

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Thanks! and I am also doing the 26 spline input shaft as well. You could really do it in a day or two if really needed. I am in no rush though, just doing it as I can.
 

sportinawoody

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for those that don't know, the bronze shift pads are better/stronger than the plastic parts they are replacing but the shift is a little harsher and life expectancy out of those are drastically cut. this is probably why ford doesn't use them. bronze is soft and wears alot faster. also, one of the tricks of the trade is to drill another hole thru each shaft and fork and use 2 new hardened pins for each fork. those pins have been sheared. And never, NEVER reuse the pins!! I will leave the other few mods alone as this is the bread and butter of tranny builders. but with these few mods alone coupled with a hardened input, you should be good for 700 or so rear wheel torque. you'll need a bearing splitter and shop press if you go further to disassembling the gearsets
 
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BeachMonkey100

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for those that don't know, the bronze shift pads are better/stronger than the plastic parts they are replacing but the shift is a little harsher and life expectancy out of those are drastically cut. this is probably why ford doesn't use them. bronze is soft and wears alot faster. also, one of the tricks of the trade is to drill another hole thru each shaft and fork and use 2 new hardened pins for each fork. those pins have been sheared. And never, NEVER reuse the pins!! I will leave the other few mods alone as this is the bread and butter of tranny builders. but with these few mods alone coupled with a hardened input, you should be good for 700 or so rear wheel torque. you'll need a bearing splitter and shop press if you go further to disassembling the gearsets

Spot on man! I was going to get to this, but when putting it back together. The bronze pads shouldn't be a problem wear wise for a long while, but will of course wear out faster than the stock plastic ones. My plastic ones I took out almost looked brand new, minimal wear on the slider face of them which is a good thing. It's just a DD that might see a track a few times next year that's about it.

Also +1 on the pins, I got double rolled pins for the 1st & 2nd and 3rd & 4th forks, and will be getting new pins for the rest of the forks that aren't getting double rolled pins (easily available at most fastenals, etc).

The only thing I'm not touching is the gear sets though I have the tools for it.

Woody, I'm no master transmission builder, but I do know some of the "bread and butter" tricks for the transmissons. Some of them are right in front of you when tearing it down, but that's a discussion for a later day :) lol

Edit: For everyone that can't afford a 6060 swap or whatever you may be wanting to put in your car, this is a cheaper alternative (for the most part) to do. Right now I have just under $400 in parts minus the new pins and my time. Not a bad way to beef up the 5 speed, but if you're like most and want the 6 speed with a better gear option then go for it! I know most of us aren't made of money so it's why for one I decided to go this route and two start this thread.
 
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BeachMonkey100

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I didn't see it posted here or in other threads, so here's a link to the PDF version of the 3650 Service Manual for anyone interested (and I do realize it's not for the remote mount version we have): http://www.core-shifters.com/TR3650_Service_Manual.pdf


Lol good call on that one. I have a version if it printed out, but if you tear the transmission down and then read the manual you'll be glad you didn't read it. Some of it is confusing to most.
 

def67

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sygune2a.jpg
[/QUOTE]


So if I may ask a totally newb question, basically how does it work? The middle shaft in the pic slides back and forth along the top shaft as you shift? What does the small bottom shaft do? Flame away if you must, or just delete this post if it is too dumb of a question. :stfu:
 

BeachMonkey100

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Nothing shaft wise moves back and forth, just the sliders which is part of the synchronizer assembly. power transfers through the input shaft (far right) spinning the counter shaft (middle) which in turn spins the main shaft (far left). The what you call "small bottom shaft" is the input shaft, it is what connects the flywheel/clutch plate assembly to the transmission, while the clutch is engaged that shaft has a force of motion transferring through it (torque) if you want to be technological. All the counter shaft (middle) does is is transfer power from the input shaft to the main shaft and also aligns with the gears on the main shaft to give you the specific ratios for each gear in the transmission. I hope this helps, it's about the easiest way I could explain it lol, and no question is dumb, we're all here to help, I am at least.

Edit: I didn't really explain the slider part, the synchrozier assembly is for switching between gears, 1st to 2nd, 3rd to 4th and so on. It will literally slide (while transmission is in the car) forward for 1st gear and backwards for 2nd gear and so forth depending what gear you want. Again hope all this helps you understand just a little bit more than you did before!
 
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BeachMonkey100

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Here is a diagram to show you what I meant by transferring motion to one shaft to another.
 

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s8v4o

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I did that shit and had no idea what I was doing, but I learned :thumb2:
and I have the trans back together correctly.

Is it in your car right now being driven or is it in a closet somewhere?
 

eighty6gt

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Man, got excited about a dog ring gearset available for this transmission from g-force! Called them up and....

Not available, may go into production in 1-2 years. Pfffffft.....
 

BeachMonkey100

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Oh yes definitely neat for sure, I have access to all the machinery to make it, that wouldn't be a problem. I was just wanting to know why he would want that, unless it's strictly a track car lol.
 

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