3650 tear down/install

BeachMonkey100

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Nah - Speedo sensor O-ring - It's just weeping a bit of fluid. I know it can be done in-car.

Does the tailshaft have to come off to do those two rear seals or could they be done in car?

oh okay, I miss read what you were saying. That certainly can be done in the car lol.

and the two rear seals can be done in the car I don't see why not, you don't have to pull the housing as both the seals are accessible, but will need to pull the flange first, the only problem is (in my mind) finding something large enough to fit over the end of the tail shaft and still wide enough to install the tailhousing seal which I have but obviously that doesn't help you. Other than that it's doable, I would drain the fluid while you're at it to to prevent any mess. and the flange seal is deceiving while installing, put the flange on with the nut and washer first, run down the flange with the bolt, remove the washer with a magnet then put a light film of grease on the seal then slide it over the tail shaft, reinstall the washer and bolt, not doing so you risk tearing up that flange seal pretty bad matter of fact you risk shredding it to pieces by putting it on then running the nut down with an impact.
 

Rasmus

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So when can I drop off a 3650 for a refresh?
 

BeachMonkey100

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And finally slave cylinder is here!

etuda7ut.jpg
 

429244

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OP, nice job with the pics and explanation. I have been tempted to do my trans and rebuild it with the g-force kit. Its a 26 spline input and better, more evenly spaced ratios. I just have not had the time or ambition to do it yet.

http://www.gforcetransmissions.com/tran_3650.asp

If you don't mind me asking, how much was that kit?

BeachMonkey100, thanks for this write-up. Please keep us posted on your impressions of the syncromesh fluid.
 

BeachMonkey100

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Not a problem, it's why I did the write up. I will definitely leave some feed back on the fluid, it's the same stuff pretty much as gm synchromesh which is in the lead fluid wise for just about any manual out there right now so I'm sure I will like it.
 

DILYSI Dave

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oh okay, I miss read what you were saying. That certainly can be done in the car lol.

and the two rear seals can be done in the car I don't see why not, you don't have to pull the housing as both the seals are accessible, but will need to pull the flange first, the only problem is (in my mind) finding something large enough to fit over the end of the tail shaft and still wide enough to install the tailhousing seal which I have but obviously that doesn't help you. Other than that it's doable, I would drain the fluid while you're at it to to prevent any mess. and the flange seal is deceiving while installing, put the flange on with the nut and washer first, run down the flange with the bolt, remove the washer with a magnet then put a light film of grease on the seal then slide it over the tail shaft, reinstall the washer and bolt, not doing so you risk tearing up that flange seal pretty bad matter of fact you risk shredding it to pieces by putting it on then running the nut down with an impact.

I appreciate it!
 

Devcon 7

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Just curious what kit you used to rebuild the t3650? Also how much did that input shaft run you? Great write up btw.
 

BeachMonkey100

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Just curious what kit you used to rebuild the t3650? Also how much did that input shaft run you? Great write up btw.

I didn't buy a kit, just some shifter fork pads and an input shaft/bearing. I got everything from pro-force performance. Stan is the one you would need to contact, I don't think his number is on the website, but if you email him he will get back to you quickly no matter what time.

I can't remember the exact number of how much it was, I will have to dig the receipt out this afternoon and look. If I remember correctly it was $350 for the shaft and another $70 for the pads, pins and bearing for the input.
 

429244

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I didn't buy a kit, just some shifter fork pads and an input shaft/bearing. I got everything from pro-force performance. Stan is the one you would need to contact, I don't think his number is on the website, but if you email him he will get back to you quickly no matter what time.

I can't remember the exact number of how much it was, I will have to dig the receipt out this afternoon and look. If I remember correctly it was $350 for the shaft and another $70 for the pads, pins and bearing for the input.

Devcon7,
I think Stan is charging about $450 for that input shaft with bearing. It is best that you call Stan. He is very helpful and will give you the current availability of the parts that you need for your overhaul.
 

Devcon 7

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Ok, thanks. I'm looking to do the 26 spline input shaft on my 3650, but didnt know if there was anything else I should do while in there :)
 

BeachMonkey100

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Ok, thanks. I'm looking to do the 26 spline input shaft on my 3650, but didnt know if there was anything else I should do while in there :)


I would definitely do the bronze pads, if you have the tools and are willing to tear apart the gear sets that would be a plus, but not needed.
 

429244

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I will give life to this thread.
I just finished installing the 26 spline input shaft in my 3650. While I was in there, I install new blocking rings and bronze shift pads. I plan on going to 4.10 gears this winter but I drive the car on the highway a lot. Therefore, I changed the 5th gear ratio from .68 to .62.
This is not a hard job but does require some patience. Stan at Pro Force Performance was a big help and he had all of the parts I needed. I will need to send my RST back to Mcleod so they can make it a 26 spline RXT. I won't be able to drive the car until spring so I can't report on how much I like the new gears or the new input shaft.
At this point, I just couldn't justify $5k or so to put in a Magnum T56 or install a take out 6060. The total cost of this project (without the clutch) will be under $900.
 
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BeachMonkey100

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awesome man! it's why I did this thread to begin with was for that reason, ones like me who didn't want to drop all they had into a magnum swap.. glad it worked out for you. Stan is a stand up guy, I would recommend anyone to him that I could. He's helped me out in more ways than one. If you haven't chosen a fluid yet, I am running 1 quart of syngear II additive and the rest filled with pennzoil syncromesh, so far I'm digging it!

With the bronze fork pads... you will definitely notice a difference in the shifting/gear selection. You'll know the first few times you drive it exactly where to put the shifter as it's spot on now and no more play in it. Makes for someone who has never driven it... well hell lol
 

429244

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awesome man! it's why I did this thread to begin with was for that reason, ones like me who didn't want to drop all they had into a magnum swap.. glad it worked out for you. Stan is a stand up guy, I would recommend anyone to him that I could. He's helped me out in more ways than one. If you haven't chosen a fluid yet, I am running 1 quart of syngear II additive and the rest filled with pennzoil syncromesh, so far I'm digging it!

With the bronze fork pads... you will definitely notice a difference in the shifting/gear selection. You'll know the first few times you drive it exactly where to put the shifter as it's spot on now and no more play in it. Makes for someone who has never driven it... well hell lol

I was going to use syncromesh since that is what I used for assembly. What the heck is syngear II and what is it supposed to do for me? This transmission shifted fine with fresh Mercon V. As for the bronze pads, I think my MGW shifter helps the most with proper gear selection (especially when going into 3rd). I put the bronze pads in because they came so highly recommended and I was going to replace the plastic anyway. I can see the benefit of the bronze pads.
Beachmonkey, I just re-read what I wrote last night and realized I didn't give this thread the thanks it earned. Although I did some things different than you describe in this thread, you said to take a picture during disassembly. I did not and that was a mistake. I was going to assemble it as soon as I disassembled it. Well the holidays got in the way and I didn't look at it for a week. I had one issue with the levers on the three shift rails. The shop manual was NO HELP AT ALL in this situation. Your picture saved me. Thank you.
 

BeachMonkey100

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I was going to use syncromesh since that is what I used for assembly. What the heck is syngear II and what is it supposed to do for me? This transmission shifted fine with fresh Mercon V. As for the bronze pads, I think my MGW shifter helps the most with proper gear selection (especially when going into 3rd). I put the bronze pads in because they came so highly recommended and I was going to replace the plastic anyway. I can see the benefit of the bronze pads.
Beachmonkey, I just re-read what I wrote last night and realized I didn't give this thread the thanks it earned. Although I did some things different than you describe in this thread, you said to take a picture during disassembly. I did not and that was a mistake. I was going to assemble it as soon as I disassembled it. Well the holidays got in the way and I didn't look at it for a week. I had one issue with the levers on the three shift rails. The shop manual was NO HELP AT ALL in this situation. Your picture saved me. Thank you.

syngear II is an additive that is used to "climb" the gears and thicken it up just a bit, not sure what kind of 26 spline shaft you got, but mine was a true one piece out of 9310 and I had some whining coming from it, this additive helped a lot. I got it from Stan. and the bronze pads do definitely make a difference, it's a good difference though.

The shop manual does suck, it helps slightly, but not into detail as you would want it to. Glad I had a picture of it man, and the thread helped someone out! lol
 

429244

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... not sure what kind of 26 spline shaft you got, but mine was a true one piece out of 9310 and I had some whining coming from it, ...

Thanks for the fluid info. Funny you mention the true one piece shaft. Those are now hard to find. Stan says that they might be produced in late spring. He claims the modified shafts are just as strong. However, he also stated that the modified shafts are quieter because they use a Tremec gear. That sold me. I had him get a modified shaft for me.
 

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