A Bunch of NITROUS questions!

[s8v4o]

You won't be able to use the 2 step and spray because that requires you to activate the TPS switch. The results of that will be some really loud explosions in the exhaust and potentially a backfire.

So I shouldn't be having any problems using the wotbox with a built in window switch right? Theory is as long as the clucth is pushed in while at full throttle the nitrous kit shouldn't be activated until I release the clutch. So basically I will be two stepping off the line then as soon as I release the clutch, the two step should stop and the nitrous should kick in. This also should mean that during the no lift shifting the nitrous should also turn off during my shifting.

Anybody using the wotbox with built in window switch?

 

[FlyByNight]

Don't like the heater.....rather have the wrap around with a blanket. [edit] After checking the date of OPs last post I guess it really doesn't matter..............

 

[TheKurgan]

So I shouldn't be having any problems using the wotbox with a built in window switch right? Theory is as long as the clucth is pushed in while at full throttle the nitrous kit shouldn't be activated until I release the clutch. So basically I will be two stepping off the line then as soon as I release the clutch, the two step should stop and the nitrous should kick in. This also should mean that during the no lift shifting the nitrous should also turn off during my shifting.

Anybody using the wotbox with built in window switch?

I'm not sure what you mean by built-in window switch, but I know if I shift with my wot box before I'm outside my rpm window it will backfire in the exhaust. I have to wait until I'm above 6200 rpms(where my end rpm is set) before I shift. Otherwise it explodes in the exhaust and sounds like a ricer. Probably doesn't hurt anything since I don't have cats or restrictive mufflers, but doesn't sound good anyway.

 

[s8v4o]

I'm not sure what you mean by built-in window switch, but I know if I shift with my wot box before I'm outside my rpm window it will backfire in the exhaust. I have to wait until I'm above 6200 rpms(where my end rpm is set) before I shift. Otherwise it explodes in the exhaust and sounds like a ricer. Probably doesn't hurt anything since I don't have cats or restrictive mufflers, but doesn't sound good anyway.

As I'm sure you already know but a window switch turns the nitrous on and off at a user adjustable setting for low and high RPM. This is for safety reasons. The wotbox I have http://www.npcompleteperformance.com/wotbox I paid extra to have the window switch added to it. The window switch can control nitrous, water/meth injection, etc . The backfire you're talking about is basically the same backfire that you here when you are 2 stepping correct? Most likely I will have this sound when I'm shifting due to the "no lift shifting" the wotbox also does. As the name suggests you don't let off the throttle during shifting. Basically it goes to your set rpm for shifting (like the 2 step). The bonus to this is I "should" still be able to leave the throttle at WOT during shifting because the wotbox should turn off the nitrous because I'm pushing in the clutch and entering flat shift mode.

 

[1FastS197]

if he set the window switch to spray at 3000 and shut off at 6300 AND set the Zex box to spray at WOT you can still use your 2-step right? just don't hold at WOT on the line... right?

 

[jeffie on juice]

all i got to say is welcome to the Nitrous club, spend the money and get a window switch with gear lock out. 1st gear will be very hard to keep traction. if u power shift it will break lose.
to keep bottle pressure good i only use 4lbs out of my bottle at a time then switch out.
higher the bottle pressure the stronger the hit, remember when they tune the car look at bottle PSI . Also don't spend alot of money on the gauge just get a inline gauge or one to mount on the bottle. ( will save alot of money )
i mounted all my stuff here, cleaned up the gauge with a ring at a 45degree angel
I suggest the ford racing single heat range plugs, if u want i am getting rid of my harris speed works plat system sale for very cheap. on the 150shot i made 494rwhp and 571tq

purge button
red flip- bottle warmer,bottle opener,window switch,2 step
black switch - nos arm
then under the dash i have a main kill switch, just incase i am drink and someone drives my car home

 

[s8v4o]

if he set the window switch to spray at 3000 and shut off at 6300 AND set the Zex box to spray at WOT you can still use your 2-step right? just don't hold at WOT on the line... right?

I *should* still be able to go to WOT because when the clutch pedal is pushed in it should kill the nitrous and activate the 2 step and/or flat shifting...

 

[ayabrego]

I have a question that maybe other people will appreciate. Instead of making another thread I thought just asking it here. Sorry for the thread jack. The question is does nitrous see significant gains from a intake manifold or throttle body. I know other FI applications do but but no sure about nitrous. Thanks for anyone's answers.

 

[s8v4o]

IMO intake stuff isn't as important as exhaust with regards to nitrous. Reason being is that nitrous brings its own oxygen to the mix. Obviously any increase in flow is always welcome though.

 

[Corpo]

Try this as a window switch.. I use it to control my entire nitrous system. It operates based off speed, tps, as well as rpm, it reads my tps, wideband, and nitrous pressure sensor. If any of those get out of 'spec' I programed it to stop spraying. Still trying to figure out our fuel pressure sensors as well to program that in. But the controller is capable. It turns on my bap when the nitrous is spraying, and It even turns my bottle heater off if the pressure gets too high. And if the pressure drops too low, it will stop spraying too. Right now I got it to spray only above 5mph. So no worries for a 2-step. Bit of a wiring nightmare, but if you can wire a stereo in, you can figure it out.

 

[waketek516]

Don't like the heater.....rather have the wrap around with a blanket. [edit] After checking the date of OPs last post I guess it really doesn't matter..............

Nope your post DID matter - I have a traditional "wrap" style heater coming in the mail this week

 

[waketek516]

So I think I've got all my parts now to start installing this kit sometime this Month (I may start some stuff this weekend)

Zex Kit (Bottle, NMU, Fuel rail adaptor, lines, etc)
Zex Purge
Zex Blowdown
Zex Window Switch
Bottle Heater with Pressure shutoff
HTOs
Autometer Cobalt Nitrous Gauge
Autometer Cobalt Wideband Gauge
Autometer Cobalt Fuel Pressure Gauge
Boss 302 Gauge Pod (on order from LRS)

Does anyone know if you can run braided line for the purge? It came with a small section of hardline, but I want to mount the solenoid on the firewall and purge out my hood scoop (hence the need for flexible line).

 

[jeffie on juice]

when you hit the purge you had better have the flex line hold down because there is 1050psi running through that line,
playing with nitrous is like playing with matches its always fun but you will get burned

if you are looking to get the best power from NOS use a plate system
also so u do not have to worry about bottle pressure dropping i always ran 2 bottles into 1 line, my top end was way stronger. you will also have to talk to your tuner about bottle pressure because if he tunes the car at 950PSI then it will be smart to always have the pressure at that PSI for the hit.
the more psi the harder the hit, on roll races i would let the bottle heat up to about 1,150psi.
And no you can not run your 2 step with a window switch, unless your window switch has a gear lock out. And my downfall of the car was switching to 4:10s with the spray i hated to dig on the street, when i had my 3:73 i could launch 10times better on the street.
Any questions please feel free to ask, if u want to step up to make the most power buy a 1 gallon fuel cell that way your not taking as much timing away from the car and run a 150shot

 

[ayabrego]

So I think I've got all my parts now to start installing this kit sometime this Month (I may start some stuff this weekend)

Zex Kit (Bottle, NMU, Fuel rail adaptor, lines, etc)
Zex Purge
Zex Blowdown
Zex Window Switch
Bottle Heater with Pressure shutoff
HTOs
Autometer Cobalt Nitrous Gauge
Autometer Cobalt Wideband Gauge
Autometer Cobalt Fuel Pressure Gauge
Boss 302 Gauge Pod (on order from LRS)

Does anyone know if you can run braided line for the purge? It came with a small section of hardline, but I want to mount the solenoid on the firewall and purge out my hood scoop (hence the need for flexible line).

Thats a nice list you have going. How much is this all costing you If you dont mind me asking.

 

[waketek516]

when you hit the purge you had better have the flex line hold down because there is 1050psi running through that line,
playing with nitrous is like playing with matches its always fun but you will get burned

if you are looking to get the best power from NOS use a plate system
also so u do not have to worry about bottle pressure dropping i always ran 2 bottles into 1 line, my top end was way stronger. you will also have to talk to your tuner about bottle pressure because if he tunes the car at 950PSI then it will be smart to always have the pressure at that PSI for the hit.
the more psi the harder the hit, on roll races i would let the bottle heat up to about 1,150psi.
And no you can not run your 2 step with a window switch, unless your window switch has a gear lock out. And my downfall of the car was switching to 4:10s with the spray i hated to dig on the street, when i had my 3:73 i could launch 10times better on the street.
Any questions please feel free to ask, if u want to step up to make the most power buy a 1 gallon fuel cell that way your not taking as much timing away from the car and run a 150shot

I wasn't 100% sure about the purge line. I'd love to have it come out the scoop, but I'd rather play it safe than sorry. So we'll see what happens on that part.

My tuner will handling parameters of the system based on what I want to use it for. I'll probably have it tuned to run around 950-1000lbs. I don't plan on running this on the street often if at all for a while.

The window switch I have does have a gear lock out, so that's not an issue for me. I'll also be wiring the 2-step into a toggle switch so it never accidentally comes on if the juice is armed.

I may move to a twin bottle setup eventually, but don't have the extra coin for that right now so I'll start with my list above.

 

[waketek516]

Thats a nice list you have going. How much is this all costing you If you dont mind me asking.

I've taken my time over the last 3-4 months sourcing as much as I can second hand on the forums and ebay. I've got most everything I need to run this as safe as possible now so I'm pretty excited.

Total cost so far is about $825 give or take. I've gotten some VERY good deals along the way - just have to be patient!

 

[joedls]

And no you can not run your 2 step with a window switch, unless your window switch has a gear lock out.

I respectfully disagree. I run a 2-step with a window switch and do not use the gear lock-out.

Works great for me.

 

[ayabrego]

This makes me want nitrous!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

[blue streak]

I have my n2o on a hurst ball with a go baby go button. I launch my car at 5800 and push the button as I'm dumping the clutch. Then release the button when I shift. Works extremely well for me and it takes a lot of complication out.

 

[waketek516]

I respectfully disagree. I run a 2-step with a window switch and do not use the gear lock-out.

Works great for me.

After the conversations we had in my other thread, I do agree with you Joe.

However, since this is my first rodeo with N2O, I'll probably first figure out what RPM I should launch out of the hole when spraying. Once I have that figured out, I'll set the 2-step & window switch a few hundred RPM apart.

Something like:
2-Step set at 3,500
Window ON set at 3,800
Window OFF set at 6,000
Shift at 6,000+