GallopingFord
I'm Cam - Mr. Indecisive
Those two holes are so much fun on the convertible... Lol
Air Lift Install - Here we go slow but steady!
- Thread starter Scott
- Start date
Glad I do not have a vert!
01mingreyvert
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Cam did you run your drain/fill straight down through the floor?
01mingreyvert
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http://www.motorz.tv/blog/9644/mustang-muscle/
Airlift install starts at about 10.00 and at 14.40 shows the large tank mounted diagonally in the spare tire well.
Airlift install starts at about 10.00 and at 14.40 shows the large tank mounted diagonally in the spare tire well.
Thanks, I did see it. The tank diagonally just doesn't work for me. I was able to confirm today the EVAP stuff will definitely not be in the way of the fill/drain fitting and hose routing under the tire well trunk floor.
Air Lift Install - Here we go slow but steady! - Continued #7
With the rear of the car on stands and tires removed I was able to start the Air Lift air bag and shock install.
Divers’ side wheel and tire removed.
First from inside the cabin I removed the upper shock mounts from the Diver’s and Passenger’s sides. The DSpec shock extensions were removed with a 14mm wrench.
Shock nuts were removed with a 17mm wrench and 8mm wrench to hold the shaft on the DSpecs (I believe an OEM shock requires a 7mm wrench).
To minimize the number of times I would have to get down and up from the floor and “stress” my hip, I gathered all the tools I thought I would need to remove the shocks and anti-roll bar so the springs can be removed. My garage chair is a secretary’s chair on rollers with the back removed. I am learning that if done carefully one can use the chair to lean on or push on when getting down and up from the floor.
Removed the shocks with a 15mm wrench, passenger side shown.
Removed the bottom bolts from the BMR Xtreme Anti-Roll Bar with a ¾” wrench and electric impact and ¾” impact socket.
Removed the jounce bumpers with a 6mm Allen socket in order to cut them down 1/3 in height.
Lowered the differential housing with the floor jack enough to remove the springs, upper and lower isolators and lower plastic caps. Driver’s side shown
Checked the EVAP junk underneath and there is going to be absolutely no issue with passing the drain/fill line through the tire well trunk floor where I need to do it.
Next up is drilling the 13/32" holes for the air bag studs (done from below) and then (from the cabin) drilling the 1/2" holes for the grommet that the air line passes through.
With the rear of the car on stands and tires removed I was able to start the Air Lift air bag and shock install.
Divers’ side wheel and tire removed.
First from inside the cabin I removed the upper shock mounts from the Diver’s and Passenger’s sides. The DSpec shock extensions were removed with a 14mm wrench.
Shock nuts were removed with a 17mm wrench and 8mm wrench to hold the shaft on the DSpecs (I believe an OEM shock requires a 7mm wrench).
To minimize the number of times I would have to get down and up from the floor and “stress” my hip, I gathered all the tools I thought I would need to remove the shocks and anti-roll bar so the springs can be removed. My garage chair is a secretary’s chair on rollers with the back removed. I am learning that if done carefully one can use the chair to lean on or push on when getting down and up from the floor.
Removed the shocks with a 15mm wrench, passenger side shown.
Removed the bottom bolts from the BMR Xtreme Anti-Roll Bar with a ¾” wrench and electric impact and ¾” impact socket.
Removed the jounce bumpers with a 6mm Allen socket in order to cut them down 1/3 in height.
Lowered the differential housing with the floor jack enough to remove the springs, upper and lower isolators and lower plastic caps. Driver’s side shown
Checked the EVAP junk underneath and there is going to be absolutely no issue with passing the drain/fill line through the tire well trunk floor where I need to do it.
Next up is drilling the 13/32" holes for the air bag studs (done from below) and then (from the cabin) drilling the 1/2" holes for the grommet that the air line passes through.
Glad to see the evap stuff is not going to be a problem. It has been so long since I put the Battery in my well, I was thinking all that stuff was in the front part but I can see now it's in the rear part. I mounted my battery towards the rear of the well, that's why I had problems with it. My car is currently in the shop so I couldn't look for you.
Earl
Earl
one eyed willy
Pizzle fo shizzle
If your interested in making some extensions for the rear shocks, I can tell you how. I modified some BC extensions to work with our rears.
Me too, finally something that is going to work without extensive effort!
May take you up on this in future, thanks!
For the Air Lift shocks I found a pair of the bottom washers and insulators, but I do not have the top OEM nut/washer combination with the insulator. Does this look like the correct part number: 4R3Z-18197-AA ?
01mingreyvert
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The D spec extensions won't fit the new airlift shocks?
Good question, I have not tried. Will be the first thing I check when in the garage today.
DSpec extension does not work with the Air Lift shocks. DSpec top Air Lift Adjuster bottom. The DSpec adjuster is too short to engage the adjustment mechanism in the shock.
Jeremy@AirLift
forum member
I have a set of long adjuster's that will work on these shocks, but there is no nut to actually fasten to the shock.
Air Lift Install - Here we go slow but steady! - Continued #8
Driver’s side spring seat with the rubber isolator removed.
Center hole enlarged to 13/32” with a “step” drill bit, drilled up from the bottom and down from the top (2 layers of metal separated by air).
A ½” hole was marked 1.375” (1-3/8”) from the 13/32” hole towards the outside of the car and drilled from inside the cabin.
Clamp Plate was inserted nut side facing down into the lower spring perch.
Plastic spacer was placed over the lower spring perch.
I marked the air bag with a permanent marker corresponding to the location of the air line fitting. The air bag was threaded into the clamp plate and hand tightened then 1 additional revolution to align the air line fitting with the air line. The provide rubber grommet was inserted into the ½” hole and the air line was passed through. A fresh cut was made on the air line 1” from the end. The air bag was compressed and the air line securely inserted into the fitting.
The air bag was extended and the top stud aligned and inserted into the 13/32” hole
Just caught the threads on the air bag as the rear end is still lowered in order to drill the two holes on the passenger side.
The jounce bumper was cut down to 1/3 height and reinstalled.
Now onto the passenger side. Drilled the holes and installed the air line pass through grommet.
Slipped the clamp plate in again with the nut side facing down.
Placed the spacer over the lower spring perch.
The passenger side air bag was threaded into the clamp plate and hand tightened then 1 additional revolution to align the air line fitting with the air line.
After a fresh cut was made in the air line it was passed through the grommet and inserted into the compressed air bag. Air bag was extended to full height and the upper stud was slipped through the hole. Trimmed jounce bumper was reinstalled.
Driver’s side spring seat with the rubber isolator removed.
Center hole enlarged to 13/32” with a “step” drill bit, drilled up from the bottom and down from the top (2 layers of metal separated by air).
A ½” hole was marked 1.375” (1-3/8”) from the 13/32” hole towards the outside of the car and drilled from inside the cabin.
Clamp Plate was inserted nut side facing down into the lower spring perch.
Plastic spacer was placed over the lower spring perch.
I marked the air bag with a permanent marker corresponding to the location of the air line fitting. The air bag was threaded into the clamp plate and hand tightened then 1 additional revolution to align the air line fitting with the air line. The provide rubber grommet was inserted into the ½” hole and the air line was passed through. A fresh cut was made on the air line 1” from the end. The air bag was compressed and the air line securely inserted into the fitting.
The air bag was extended and the top stud aligned and inserted into the 13/32” hole
Just caught the threads on the air bag as the rear end is still lowered in order to drill the two holes on the passenger side.
The jounce bumper was cut down to 1/3 height and reinstalled.
Now onto the passenger side. Drilled the holes and installed the air line pass through grommet.
Slipped the clamp plate in again with the nut side facing down.
Placed the spacer over the lower spring perch.
The passenger side air bag was threaded into the clamp plate and hand tightened then 1 additional revolution to align the air line fitting with the air line.
After a fresh cut was made in the air line it was passed through the grommet and inserted into the compressed air bag. Air bag was extended to full height and the upper stud was slipped through the hole. Trimmed jounce bumper was reinstalled.
Last edited:
GreenTerror
forum member
Nice thorough write up!
01mingreyvert
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I would like to know.
Thanks!
Air Lift Install - Here we go slow but steady! - Continued #9
Attached the hard air lines to the leader lines on the front struts. Placed about a foot of ½” wire loom on the leader lines to ensure they would not rub directly on any suspension components. Not sure how others secured their leader lines, I was hoping to use one or two cushion clamps but considering the inner plastic panels and wire bundles there was not a lot of opportunity. I ended up cable tying the leader lines on both sides to wire bundles. Inner fender panels will not go back on until after testing for leaks and a road test.
Driver’s side.
Passenger’s side.
The DSpec shocks have a larger diameter shaft and require a larger than OEM nut on their isolator. Purchased a pair of OEM isolators from Ford, part number AR3Z-18197-A to fit the Air Lift shocks.
Here is a side by side comparison of an Air Lift to the Tokico DSpec.
Installed the rear shocks.
Driver’s side.
Passenger’s side.
Terminated the strut and shock air lines into the manifold. They were cable tied together, ran into the tire well floor and then cut to length using the Air Lift tool. The air lines where inserted into the manifold following the Air Lift instructions:
- Manifold port FL or 1 to the front drivers side left strut
- Manifold port FR or 2 to the front passenger side right strut
- Manifold port RL or 3 to the rear drivers side left air bag
- Manifold port RR or 4 to the rear passenger side right air bag
Added an air line to manifold port E or 6. Routed the exhaust air line to the rear of the tire well and cut a small hole in a rubber grommet underneath the driver’s side FPDM to pass the line through.
Drilled a hole in the tire well floor underneath the drain/fill port of the tank and installed a grommet. Now the tank sits reasonably flat on the bottom.
The 2.5 gallon aluminum air tank weights less than 5 pounds and I am going to fasten it down with 1/4-20 aluminum bolts and nuts.
This shows underside of the tire well, the ¼ NPT straight air line fitting that the drain/fill line will be connected to and only two so far of the tank hold down bolts.
For inspiration I took this picture of the approximate mounting location of the VIAIR compressor.
Attached the hard air lines to the leader lines on the front struts. Placed about a foot of ½” wire loom on the leader lines to ensure they would not rub directly on any suspension components. Not sure how others secured their leader lines, I was hoping to use one or two cushion clamps but considering the inner plastic panels and wire bundles there was not a lot of opportunity. I ended up cable tying the leader lines on both sides to wire bundles. Inner fender panels will not go back on until after testing for leaks and a road test.
Driver’s side.
Passenger’s side.
The DSpec shocks have a larger diameter shaft and require a larger than OEM nut on their isolator. Purchased a pair of OEM isolators from Ford, part number AR3Z-18197-A to fit the Air Lift shocks.
Here is a side by side comparison of an Air Lift to the Tokico DSpec.
Installed the rear shocks.
Driver’s side.
Passenger’s side.
Terminated the strut and shock air lines into the manifold. They were cable tied together, ran into the tire well floor and then cut to length using the Air Lift tool. The air lines where inserted into the manifold following the Air Lift instructions:
- Manifold port FL or 1 to the front drivers side left strut
- Manifold port FR or 2 to the front passenger side right strut
- Manifold port RL or 3 to the rear drivers side left air bag
- Manifold port RR or 4 to the rear passenger side right air bag
Added an air line to manifold port E or 6. Routed the exhaust air line to the rear of the tire well and cut a small hole in a rubber grommet underneath the driver’s side FPDM to pass the line through.
Drilled a hole in the tire well floor underneath the drain/fill port of the tank and installed a grommet. Now the tank sits reasonably flat on the bottom.
The 2.5 gallon aluminum air tank weights less than 5 pounds and I am going to fasten it down with 1/4-20 aluminum bolts and nuts.
This shows underside of the tire well, the ¼ NPT straight air line fitting that the drain/fill line will be connected to and only two so far of the tank hold down bolts.
For inspiration I took this picture of the approximate mounting location of the VIAIR compressor.
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