The shift from driver to passenger side doesn't seem so bad. Most shops set camber to offset for road crown so the average consumer gets good wear with the driver side tire always riding at the peak of the crown (needs more camber) and the passenger side in the "gutter" (needs less camber). So it's not unusual for them to be slightly different from side to side. If you were setting it up for "street performance" or occasional AutoX then you'd want it symmetrical... Like - 1.5 or - 2.0 degrees camber on both sides. Toe should be barely inward... Like about 1/32" per tire or less than .1 degree total. Lastly.. +7 or +7.5 degrees caster seems to work good for all around performance. You can also increase caster to +8 or +8.5 degrees or more and then reduce camber to 1 degree or less. The tires will be flat when going straight but camber will increase when the tires are turned due to the increased caster. I've always found Maximum Motorsports to be very helpful in this area and they have been happy to give suggestions for your driving style and usage.
It sounds like your only issue is that they modified your car by grinding out the CC bolt holes rather than using the adjustability built into the MM CC plates... Those holes probably can't be "repaired" so your remedy is stuck at negotiating to try to get some money back on the service they performed.
After you get the spindle replaced I'd take it to another shop to get aligned though. Ask if you can watch the process too. And bring your specs and make sure they hit them on the screen for the alignment rack computer.
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