Alternator problem

2526Bullitt

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I have come across the dreaded alternator voltage drop issue after installing a new battery ( old battery was dead). After reading several forums, it seems like my alternator is on its last legs, moreover, I have read that the 2010 alternator for a mustang GT is an upgrade and more durable....is the 2010 alternator a drop in replacement? I have read that the wiring is in a different place, will the stock wiring harness reach? Are the connectors the same?

I will be purchasing a brand new ( not reman.) alternator from O'Reilly for a 2008 mustang GT...they are giving a lifetime warranty so if it craps out, illI just get a new one.

I'll post the quality of the alternator and if it craps out within the next week/month or year.... I'll post that as well
 
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sman247

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after losing 3 shitty alternators, i wouldnt waste my time with them. get a PA performance one or contact department of boost for one of their custom ones. any other alternator you get is going to fail guaranteed.
 

46addict

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I went against the grain too and bought a "new" TYC alternator from Rockauto. This also has a lifetime warranty so we'll see how long it lasts. The alternators in these cars are easy enough to change so I'm not worried about it.
 

sman247

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If it has a lifetime warranty then that’s not bad. Usually they only have a year warranty which is when you start pouring money
 

2526Bullitt

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The only reason I bought it was because of the lifetime warranty... moreover, I asked if it starts to malfunction in 3 years or later down the road, if they would give me a new alternator or a refurbished unit and they said they would give me a new unit since I purchased it new. Hopefully it will last a while before i have to replace it.
 

Dino Dino Bambino

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after losing 3 shitty alternators, i wouldnt waste my time with them. get a PA performance one or contact department of boost for one of their custom ones. any other alternator you get is going to fail guaranteed.

PA alternators are made in China so the quality is hit and miss.
Get a 2010 OEM unit. It'll drop straight in.
 

JeremyH

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I have come across the dreaded alternator voltage drop issue after installing a new battery ( old battery was dead). After reading several forums, it seems like my alternator is on its last legs, moreover, I have read that the 2010 alternator for a mustang GT is an upgrade and more durable....is the 2010 alternator a drop in replacement? I have read that the wiring is in a different place, will the stock wiring harness reach? Are the connectors the same?

Yes its a drop in replacement, yes wiring is in a different place, yes stock wiring reaches, yes connectors are the same. Only thing that will likely need done is the positive terminal on the alternator is a little beefier/wider. So I took a drill bit and hogged out the ring terminal on the oem wiring slightly to make it easier to install the ring on the post.

The crap-tastic 05-08 single phase alternator was replaced in mid 09 with a much more robust denso 3 phase unit. So the part number listed for 09-10 is what you want.
Ford part number is 9R3Z10346B.
Tasca will have the best price.
 

Dino Dino Bambino

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The crap-tastic 05-08 single phase alternator was replaced in mid 09 with a much more robust denso 3 phase unit.

The '05-'09 alternator, like every other modern alternator, is a three-phase unit. The problem was simply either poor quality components or poor quality assembly. Ford stealerships sell remanufactured units (not brand new) and I believe they may have resolved the quality issues of the originals. That remains to be seen.
Keep in mind that the 2010 alternators sold by the stealerships are also remanufactured units that cost a good bit more.
 

Pentalab

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PA alternators are made in China so the quality is hit and miss.
Get a 2010 OEM unit. It'll drop straight in.

AutoX racer went through three of those PA alternators. (they are reman units, built in china). All were junk. Vdc varied all over the map. It should be aprx 14.4 vdc with eng on..even in idle. I believe his were the 200A version. That caused him nothing but grief for a long time. Nobody else had any success with the PA alternators.

Any single phase alternator would have 4 x diodes inside. A 3 phase would have 6 x diodes. AFAIK, the 05-10 cars all used 3 phase alternators, but the 2010 version is the best of the bunch.
 

AndrewNagle

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AutoX racer went through three of those PA alternators. (they are reman units, built in china). All were junk. Vdc varied all over the map. It should be aprx 14.4 vdc with eng on..even in idle. I believe his were the 200A version. That caused him nothing but grief for a long time. Nobody else had any success with the PA alternators.

Any single phase alternator would have 4 x diodes inside. A 3 phase would have 6 x diodes. AFAIK, the 05-10 cars all used 3 phase alternators, but the 2010 version is the best of the bunch.

I have had a PA Alternator for over 5 years and it is fine, but i did buy a DoB as a replacement for when the PA gives up the ghost
 

2526Bullitt

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Quick update: the alternator seems to be working well....I do have an after market voltmeter gauge and it's pretty stable at 14.3, even with all accessories turned on. So far so good. If you don't hear of an update it's because the alternator is doing good. If you have any questions, feel free to message me.
 

2526Bullitt

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Also, if you have steeda underdrive pulleys as I do, the water pump pulley does block one of the bolts from the alternator to the engine block. I had to remove the pulley to have more room. Overall its a simple job.
 

Dino Dino Bambino

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Also, if you have steeda underdrive pulleys as I do, the water pump pulley does block one of the bolts from the alternator to the engine block. I had to remove the pulley to have more room. Overall its a simple job.

Yup. I ran into the same problem when I replaced my alternator 3 years ago. Removing the Steeda water pump pulley gave me the access that I needed to remove one of the lower mounting bolts.
 

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