Alternator upgrade

[VGMStudios]

Would anyone happen to know a good upgrade to the alternator for the V6?

I've been searching for a while and have only found 2 places that offer a "200 amp" alternator but I'm unsure of these place as I never heard of them before.
I even asked the ppl from "dob" and they were useless.

Its like no one know anything when it comes to the alternator for the V6. It's very strange.

 

[Iceman62]

What two places and what's the specs on your 'stang (year, motor)? Why are you needing so much power?

 

[VGMStudios]

Right now it has the OEM one.
I've found a place called powerbastards.com and dbelectrical.com
I need more power cause my all my lights flicker and other power related things.
My car is a 07 pony package.

 

[Juice]

You have another issue if you are after flickering lights. Things like bad ground(s), weak battery. How old is the battery?

 

[VGMStudios]

Nope not the grounds or the battery.
I replaced my wires. Did the big 3 upgrade.
Battery is newish, like only a yr old.
The flickering headlights have always been an issue. It's due to the weak generator.

 

[Iceman62]

Ok, have you load tested everything...electrical diagnostics?

 

[VGMStudios]

Thank you iceman62 for trying to help me out. I really appreciate it.
I just started to test it, I have been waiting for a clamp meter to arrive in the mail.

I would like to know if I am doing this right. I went to test my alternator to see if it is outputting the proper amps.
These are the results. The workshop book says that it's supposed to be 80amps @ idle and 135 amps anything over 1800 rmp.
The clamp is on the power wire to the alt.

 

[Mike G]

What you're doing looks correct to me. Just keep in mind that what you're reading is not necessarily the maximum the alternator is capable of, even at high RPMs. You are measuring the draw, how much your lights/accessories/fan blowers require to operate.

The alternator could be capable of supplying much more current, but your vehicle takes what it needs given what the electrical needs are (which could be much less than the alternator is capable of). If you are looking to test the max capability of the alternator, charge up a dead battery while the alternator is running.

Conversely if you want to reduce the load, switch to some LED headlamps / fogs. That will reduce the max load by 10 Amps or so...

 

[DieHarder]

Right now it has the OEM one.
I've found a place called powerbastards.com and dbelectrical.com
I need more power cause my all my lights flicker and other power related things.
My car is a 07 pony package.

Looks like your alternator is putting out decent amps however check AC voltages. Should be little to no AC present. A new alternator may be in order but given the outputs appears yours is working.

You mention lights flickering and other power related things. Please provide a couple of examples.

Typically, the behavior you're describing points to poor connections or grounds. Since you've replaced wiring (Big 3?) I'd recheck what you did and perform continuity as well as end-to-end connectivity checks. Was it doing the same thing prior to replacing the wiring? Do you have stock lighting or aftermarket? Any electrical system or sub-system changes?

 

[Pentalab]

Do any of your various clamp on DC ammeter readings jump about...or does the digital readout stay steady ??? Hook up a DVM directly to the battery terminals, and measure the actual VDC across the battery terminals. IF it's jumping all over the map, you may well have an alternator issue. IF the vdc across the battery terminals is rock solid, then the flickering lights issue is probably either a lousy grnd connection, or bad relay contacts, lousy hot side connections, or a combo. On my 2010 GT, with oem 135 amp alternator, I measure exactly 14.75 Vdc across the battery terminals... normal, with engine on idle.

Then with Dvm still connected to battery terminals, switch the Dvm to read AV voltage. ACV should be next to nothing like .020 vdc (20 millivolts). IF you are reading a fair amount of ACv, 1 or more of the 6 x diodes has failed shorted. With diodes failed shorted, you are pumping raw AC into the battery... bad news, and will destroy a battery in short order.

Aside from DOB, most folks have not had any luck with aftermarket '200' amp alternators. Multiple failures in a row.

 

[VGMStudios]

Just want to say thank you guys for all your help. I will do these tests that you mentioned and get back to you.

But to answer DieHarder's questions. The light flickering has always been like that ever since I bought it. So I thought it might have been the wiring which is why I changed it to the Big 3. I put in larger wires, I believe they are 0 gauge and changed all the ends.
Another example is , after rolling up the windows, I would put the button to roll them up again, and I notice a short power drop. You can see the headlights dim for a second..

Right now I have my stock ones on, but I did have HID for a while (took them off to fix the halos) the window thing did the same thing with them.

Again, Ill check these things first and report back. I hope to figure this out.

 

[Juice]

Another example is , after rolling up the windows, I would put the button to roll them up again, and I notice a short power drop. You can see the headlights dim for a second..

You do realize that is normal behavior. You are trying to roll up the window when it is already up, window motor is stalled, drawing higher current, causing the voltage drop. The only way to fix it is to stop doing that. (Or put in manual windows)

 

[VGMStudios]

Alright guys. I was able to test it out today and here are the results.
This is a short video of me testing the DCV.
https://youtube.com/shorts/Mmi5TA-eH0I?feature=share
Seems to be jumping around. :/
This is a video of testing the ACV.
https://youtube.com/shorts/uykHEaztP7E?feature=share
Seems to have a lot! :/
Here is a picture of ACV but it's set to LPF.

Juice - I didn't know that it was normal behavior. I always thought something was wrong. Then I watched a video from "Scotty" who said that if that happens then your alt is no good. So I was under the impression that I was right.

Pentalab - what did you mean by 6x diodes?

Thanks again everyone for helping me out.

 

[Pentalab]

32 Vac = alternator is toast. A good alternator will read just a few Mvolts of AC. Like .010 Vac

It's a 3 phase alternator, which uses a total of 6 x diodes. If any of the 6 x diodes fails shorted, what happens is, you end up pumping raw AC into the battery..and also the ECU, radio, and everything else.

Re-run the AC Voltage test, but this time, increase the rpm a bit, like up to 2-3 krpm, just long enough to take a reading.

Raw AC will fry a battery pretty quick.

 

[Juice]

There are instances of momentary high load where you can see it as lights dim for a split second. There is nothing you can do to prevent it, and it is not a fault of the electrical system.
4 instances come to mind: windows as you noted, AC clutch coming on at idle in traffic, and I can make the lights dim when pulling on steering wheel at full lock (EPAS), and electric cooling fan coming on at idle.

 

[DieHarder]

Last test to perform: Disconnect the output line of the alternator (to the battery) and take readings again. If it's still surging AC like that replace the alternator. I'd recommend new over reman. Kinda hit or miss if you'll have problem but less of a chance if you purchase new. Only recommendation I'd make it to remove, clean and reconnect all major grounds you can find in the engine bay. That will help ensure you have good electrical connectivity and operation of the charging system.

 

[VGMStudios]

Last test to perform: Disconnect the output line of the alternator (to the battery) and take readings again.

You mean while the engine is off correct?

 

[DieHarder]

After a more research opinions vary too much to get a definite answer whether running the alternator without a load will potentially do any damage. I've run them without a load without ill effects but it's your car that's having issues so at this point I think most of us would recommend replacing the alternator given the symptoms. If you're getting 32VAC (per Pentalab) time to replace that alternator.

 

[Pentalab]

After a more research opinions vary too much to get a definite answer whether running the alternator without a load will potentially do any damage. I've run them without a load without ill effects but it's your car that's having issues so at this point I think most of us would recommend replacing the alternator given the symptoms. If you're getting 32VAC (per Pentalab) time to replace that alternator.

I only measure a few millivolts of AC on both my 2010 stang GT..and also my 2011 Fusion. IE: .001 = 1 Millivolt. .010 = 10 millivolts.

With 32 vac across the battery terminals, stop right there, ALTERNATOR IS DOA, done, finished, toast, fucked !

As per running an alternator with no load, the alternator comes with a DC regulator built into it already, non issue. You will fuck the regulator up too, if you pump raw AC into it, from excess AC ripple.

32 Vac ripple will screw up the ECU, which is my concern. ( If it's not fried already).

Want some advice. Stop, don't drive the car anywhere, park it. Buy a new alternator. They will probably give you something for the core (old one).

That 32 vac will also fry your battery in short order.

 

[VGMStudios]

Thank you so much guys for taking the time to help me with this.

I wanted to wait to write this until I had everything uploaded.
Here is the 2nd test that I did.

You guys have convinced me to get a new atl (something I was leading towards) but I'm not so convinced that my car is putting out 32VAC. I think the yellow multimeter is not functioning properly when it comes to VAC.
I did the same test on my mom's Pontiac G5 and it too said it was putting out 32VAC.

So I think only the red multimeter is actually accurate?

Either way I'm getting a new alt. I was at a stop light and you can see my headlights and dash pusle bright and low slightly. The faster I go it goes away.