AN fitting size help needed

Fullboogie

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Next guy who starts a thread asking about AN sizes (probably 6 years from now), I'm gonna sound like a motherfuckin genius.
 

Department Of Boost

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Next guy who starts a thread asking about AN sizes (probably 6 years from now), I'm gonna sound like a motherfuckin genius.

That's how it works!!!:beer:

I learned because we use AN stuff a lot. Which means we make a lot of AN stuff. I like using AN O ring fittings when I can. You can make them low profile which is a big help when you start messing around with -20 and above. That is a LOT of fitting. A 90deg elbow damn near fills up my hand.
 

Sky Render

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So a -20 would be an inch and a quarter, right? That's like a radiator hose.

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JeremyH

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That makes a lot more sense for 10an orb. The one I have here measures .800 ish maybe OD looking at it straight down from above, on a ruler though not using anything fancy lol

But 10 makes sense for a big fuel rail.

This is -10orb

20150804_184437_zpswtb6am2g.jpg

20150804_184519_zpsrzrjnorc.jpg
 
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Sky Render

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So I've always wondered...

What's the "correct" way to convert all of a vehicle's lines to AN and braided? For instance, if you have a coolant line that is simply rubber with hose clamps on both ends, how do you replace it with AN fittings?

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07 Boss

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Not that it helps, but I have a local place called House of Hose. Great name for here in Sin City, wonder how many people call them looking for hookers. Anyways, I've always just brought my parts there and told them the length of hose I need and they hook it up with all the proper fittings and everything. Pretty convenient and not very expensive. Just thought I'd share.
 

Department Of Boost

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So I've always wondered...

What's the "correct" way to convert all of a vehicle's lines to AN and braided? For instance, if you have a coolant line that is simply rubber with hose clamps on both ends, how do you replace it with AN fittings?

Sent from my Samsung Galaxy Note 4 using Tapatalk

The big issue would be the "female" side of things.

You would need AN fittings on the radiator....which means you would need an aluminum radiator with custom "bungs" welded on.

You would need a "bung" on the water pump. That would be custom and have to be welded on.

The T-stat house will need a "bung" welded on.

And if I'm picturing this in my head correctly the "water neck" on the head would need a "bung" welded on or a whole new neck machined.

That's just for the radiator. Not worth it at all. AN fittings/hose are really for big pressure situations. You will see 16psi max in the cooling system. And the Yote cooling system is already "quick release". Nice stuff for stock.
 

Sky Render

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I was just using cooling system as an example. So even for a fuel system, you'd have to cut off all of the barbed fittings and replace them with AN fittings.
 

Department Of Boost

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I was just using cooling system as an example. So even for a fuel system, you'd have to cut off all of the barbed fittings and replace them with AN fittings.

Yeah, It's not too bad on the fuel system though. You could have a "bung" welded to the fuel hat/pump and one on the fuel crossover line and be done. Or go one step tricker and cut off the fuel rail crossover tube and weld a "bung" to to each rail. For the former you would run piece of hose with two ends. The latter you would run one long piece of hose with two ends into a Y block then two short pieces with two ends a piece (4 total).

Oh, forgot about the fuel filter. You would need to put a fuel filter with AN fittings (Fore or something) in the main line and it would require two more hose ends.

A pretty simple conversion really.

Word to the wise. Don't use braided stainless line. The bend radius on it is horribly large, it's a PITA to cut/put together and it saws through everything around it. About 2007 I started using the fabric braided line. I will never go back!!!
 

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