ARP Front Wheels Studs

AndrewNagle

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So did the front last night while I had the rotors off

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csamsh

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They're nice to have, and if your hubs are worn out you can buy some from Ford Racing with the ARP's already in them too.
 

ford20

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now open end lugs are a must? any benefit of running longer ones than stock length arp's?

A lot of classes in racing and drag racing are requiring open end lugs so that they can verify that the lugs nuts are on the wheel studs enough.

I believe open ended lugs are going to be required now but they are super cheap from FRPP.
 

Taxman

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They're nice to have, and if your hubs are worn out you can buy some from Ford Racing with the ARP's already in them too.

That's what I just did.

A lot of classes in racing and drag racing are requiring open end lugs so that they can verify that the lugs nuts are on the wheel studs enough.

I believe open ended lugs are going to be required now but they are super cheap from FRPP.

Here's another option... open lugs capped with spline lugs:



Looks better than the exposed threads and protects the threads.
 

skwerl

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I can see upgrading the rear studs but cannot see much benefit in upgrading the front studs at this point. I haven't done either yet but I can tell you the lugs on my rear wheels are bound up pretty tight when I go to remove my track wheels. Fronts might get a little bounce on the launch but otherwise lead a rather stress free life.
 

Sky Render

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I want to swap to ARP studs because I swap wheels so much during the summer for autocross and such. But I don't want them to be longer because I don't need spacers and don't want wheel studs sticking out all the time.
 

GallopingFord

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Good idea on putting a lug on there while hammering them out. I did it wrecklessly with a mallet last time. I'll do it this way this upcoming time.
 

KemahGT

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Thanks, Andrew! I was wondering what the part number was. I just changed my rear...but it was pretty easy with the axles out for a diff and gear change. Looks like a piece of cake on the front.

I'm surprised you got the new ones in with that ratchet. You must have Popeye arms. My air ratchet was screaming for mercy trying to pull the rears in!
 

AndrewNagle

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Thanks, Andrew! I was wondering what the part number was. I just changed my rear...but it was pretty easy with the axles out for a diff and gear change. Looks like a piece of cake on the front.

I'm surprised you got the new ones in with that ratchet. You must have Popeye arms. My air ratchet was screaming for mercy trying to pull the rears in!

My arms were killing me had to do it over two days. Will do the rears this weekend (maybe)

Make sure and put a lug nut on before you hammer it out so you don't break any ABS sensor ring gears
 

Scott

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There is a trick that makes the studs much easier to pull through. Use a small 1/2" ID bearing and a flat washer. With the bearing it takes very little effort to pull the studs through. I can not take credit for this idea as I picked it up in a thread by tmcolegr.

Rear shown:

 

Taxman

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Don't buy a cheap bearing though. I crushed one after three studs.
 

Nuclear

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Extended wheel studs: Excellent performance modification. Removing your old studs using a hammer: TERRIBLE IDEA. Hammering out the stock studs, regardless of "technique", will induce damage on your front wheel bearings. The impacts from the hammer can produce localized fatigue points in the bearing that will lead to early bearing failure. Those bearings are simply not engineered to handle impact side loading like that. For any other forum members planning on changing wheel studs, remove the hubs AND USE A PRESS! Removing the hub is very easy, and doesn't add much time to the job. The press-method is especially true for anyone using their Mustang for true high-performance use (ie: track days, HPDEs, etc).
 

Taxman

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Extended wheel studs: Excellent performance modification. Removing your old studs using a hammer: TERRIBLE IDEA. Hammering out the stock studs, regardless of "technique", will induce damage on your front wheel bearings. The impacts from the hammer can produce localized fatigue points in the bearing that will lead to early bearing failure. Those bearings are simply not engineered to handle impact side loading like that. For any other forum members planning on changing wheel studs, remove the hubs AND USE A PRESS! Removing the hub is very easy, and doesn't add much time to the job. The press-method is especially true for anyone using their Mustang for true high-performance use (ie: track days, HPDEs, etc).

To add to that, removing the hub is just one additional nut. I agree to not bang them out.
 
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