Auto to manual swap with auto wiring harness

[Gavin Eshleman]

So i have done my complete auto to manual swap with my auto wiring harness.Speedo works and no check engine lights or limp mode.Just stuck on my reverse light switch and what wire i need to tap it into.I have ran my wire into my passenger kick panel but am lost from there.Any help?

 

[DieHarder]

Not that familiar w/manuals since I have an auto but here's a wiring diagram that shows both manual/auto reverse connections. At least you can trace wiring and connectors to see what's there or not and included troubleshooting procedures/diagnosis & testing that should help ID what you still need to complete the circuits for a manual. Good luck.

Wiring Diagram: https://iihs.net/fsm/?d=40&f=Reversing Lamps.pdf

Diagnosis/Testing: https://iihs.net/fsm/?d=389&f=Reversing Lamps.pdf

 

[Gavin Eshleman]

This is what lito has sent me aswell.Hes telling me that i need to run the switch to my passenger kick panel and tap the wire into the 86 pin connector but to be quite frank his instructions have left me lost.

 

[DieHarder]

This is what lito has sent me aswell.Hes telling me that i need to run the switch to my passenger kick panel and tap the wire into the 86 pin connector but to be quite frank his instructions have left me lost.

He may be talking about the SJB but there's no 86 pin connector. If he's talking about C2280H (SJB Connector) that's a 36 pin connector. To be fair there are several C2280 connectors just above and behind the SJB. However, according to the manual the Reverse circuits run thru the PCM for the most part. The SJB only outputs voltage to the tail lights when told to by the PCM. For below to work I'm assuming a manual trans is installed and you already have a C169 (2 pin connector Reversing Lamps switch) that connects to the drivers side of the trans. That completes the circuit when in reverse. I am also assuming the auto DTR (Digital Trans Range) connector is still there (at least the auto harness wiring).

At the Transmission:
1) The easiest thing I think you can do is use the same 359/1789 circuits using wiring from the old connector C167 Pin 2; and Pins 4/5.

First, assign/connect C167 Pin 2 (GY-RD) to C169 Pin B - That takes care of the Signal Return...

2) Next, experiment using temp connections/alligator clips from C167 Pins 4 (YE-BK) and Pin 5 (LB-BK) to C169 Pin A. According to the way I'm reading the diagrams you may need only one or both of the wires to complete the circuit for the PCM to tell the SJB to output 12v on C2280D pins 13, 26 (Reverse lamps). (Testing w/clips should tell you if it's going to work or not. Unfortunately, I believe you need to have the engine running to get the reverse lights to work so ask a friend to help. At least that's been my experience.

If step 2 won't work for some reason you're going to have run a wire from C169 Pin A and route it all the way up to C175T (PCM) and tap into Pin 21 (VT-WH) (or somewhere along the harness if there's another point).

Wiring Diagram: https://iihs.net/fsm/?d=40&f=Reversing Lamps.pdf

Normal Operation/Manual Trans: https://iihs.net/fsm/?d=389&f=Reversing Lamps.pdf&p=2

In Review:
1) Connect C167 Pin 2 (GY-RD) to C169 Pin B - That takes care of the Signal Return.
2) Test if C167 Pins 4/5 to C169 Pin A will complete the circuit to activate the Reverse lamps. If so, connect Pin 4 (YE-BK) and/or Pin 5 (LB-BK) as needed to C169 Pin A. That completes the activation for the Reverse lights thru the PCM.
3) If that doesn't work, route a wire from C169 Pin A to C175T (PCM) Pin 21 and tap (VT-WH) wire.

All, if there's another point (like the SJB) that's easier to tap into to get the PCM activation signal someone feel free to chime in but I don't see it.

 

[Petro Leontiuk]

So i have done my complete auto to manual swap with my auto wiring harness.Speedo works and no check engine lights or limp mode.Just stuck on my reverse light switch and what wire i need to tap it into.I have ran my wire into my passenger kick panel but am lost from there.Any help?

Hello. Would you be so kind to share some info about this swap? Recently my 5R55S started to slip on 3rd gear, so i’m thinking about swapping it to TR-3650. I’ve found almost all parts that i need, except the PCM and driveshaft. I have a Brenspeed tune now, Brent says that i will definitely need to swap my PCM to another one from a manual car. But i would like to keep my own automatic PCM and reprogram it if that’s possible. I live in Ukraine so getting parts here may be hard and takes time, that’s why reprogramming my stock PCM if possible would be preferred choice for me.

 

[Gavin Eshleman]

Theres a thread on here explaining how to use your auto wiring harness.You can use your auto pcm just get a tune through lito and tell him you need it reprogrammed to a manual strategy.You can also use your auto driveshaft.

 

[DieHarder]

Instead of going through the expense and effort of swapping everything over to a manual you might want to consider this fix:

I ran across and bought one of these kits from AJ1E for the day when my trans starts slipping bad enough to do something about it and it's a heck of a lot less expense wise to boot.

Ford Lincoln Mercury Explorer Mountaineer Navigator Servo Bore Fix

AJ1E Superior Solutions, LLC - Ford Servo Bore Transmission Fix Solution Kit

www.fordservoboretransmissionfixsolution.com

Additionally, you might need to do a band adjustment. https://sporttrac.org/threads/5r55s-band-adjustment.119212/

 

[Petro Leontiuk]

Theres a thread on here explaining how to use your auto wiring harness.You can use your auto pcm just get a tune through lito and tell him you need it reprogrammed to a manual strategy.You can also use your auto driveshaft.

I’ve read that tread, it’s very informative. The only thing that scares me now is PCM reprogramming part. I have now Airaid CAI, Detroit rocker cams and a Brenspeed’s tune. I’ve bought a set of Pypes long tubes but hadn’t installed them yet. I’ve asked Brent about the manual swap and he told me that i will need to buy another PCM from a manual car, and after that he will send me a new tune. I’ve tried to contact Lito but he doesn’t want to respond to me. He did respond only once on my very first email and after that i couldn’t reach him.

 

[Petro Leontiuk]

Instead of going through the expense and effort of swapping everything over to a manual you might want to consider this fix:

I ran across and bought one of these kits from AJ1E for the day when my trans starts slipping bad enough to do something about it and it's a heck of a lot less expense wise to boot.

Ford Lincoln Mercury Explorer Mountaineer Navigator Servo Bore Fix

AJ1E Superior Solutions, LLC - Ford Servo Bore Transmission Fix Solution Kit

www.fordservoboretransmissionfixsolution.com

Additionally, you might need to do a band adjustment. https://sporttrac.org/threads/5r55s-band-adjustment.119212/

As i understand, you will need to drop transmission in order to install new servos and the ln adjust the bands. New servos will cost me about $500 after delivery and taxes (i live in Ukraine), and i will need to drop my transmission in order to install them. Transmission rebuild costs here $500, i mean only labor. Parts may cost another $800. But that only if i will retain my torque converter. Also new fluid and filter will add another $150.
Swapping manual will definitely cost more, i understand that. But for me driving a manual car is a very special experience that can't be compared to driving automatic car. Thats why i'm still thinking about swap. I've found a used TR-3650 for $1k here in Ukraine. Also that guy has McLeod aluminum flywheel and Street Pro clutch with a very low mileage for $550, pedals assembly for $200, new OEM clutch bearing for $100 and used transmission bracket for $50. I will have to buy some things to complete the swap kit, like pilot bearing and clutch line, but that's it. It seems like a good deal to me, but replacing my stock PCM in the future scares me, because it will cost another $500 if not more and also i will need to flash my VIN in it somehow.

 

[DieHarder]

As i understand, you will need to drop transmission in order to install new servos and the ln adjust the bands. New servos will cost me about $500 after delivery and taxes (i live in Ukraine), and i will need to drop my transmission in order to install them. Transmission rebuild costs here $500, i mean only labor. Parts may cost another $800. But that only if i will retain my torque converter. Also new fluid and filter will add another $150.
Swapping manual will definitely cost more, i understand that. But for me driving a manual car is a very special experience that can't be compared to driving automatic car. Thats why i'm still thinking about swap. I've found a used TR-3650 for $1k here in Ukraine. Also that guy has McLeod aluminum flywheel and Street Pro clutch with a very low mileage for $550, pedals assembly for $200, new OEM clutch bearing for $100 and used transmission bracket for $50. I will have to buy some things to complete the swap kit, like pilot bearing and clutch line, but that's it. It seems like a good deal to me, but replacing my stock PCM in the future scares me, because it will cost another $500 if not more and also i will need to flash my VIN in it somehow.

Since you're slipping/flaring in 3rd gear the kit will likely fix your problem as the issue appears to be worn servo bores. Adjusting the bands you can do yourself. You don't need to buy anything else other than the kit. The kit price is $219 for the modified servo's. Other than the kit and changing trans fluid/filter that's the extent of the work and parts needed.

Go to the AJ1E site mentioned in the second post and look up the instructions. You can do the servo's without taking the trans out (drop the rear by a few inches to get the clearance needed to remove and install). Depends of course on how confident you and a friend or two are about tackling such a job. If you have access to a lift and someone who can work on cars along with the tools mentioned or buy with the kit that should be the cheapest route by far.

AJ1E Site: www.fordservoboretransmissionfixsolution.com

5R55S Partial Trans Removal Instructions: https://www.fordservoboretransmissi...5/8/1/1/5811077/partial_tranny_removal_r1.pdf

Follow the instructions exactly.

 

[Gavin Eshleman]

I’ve read that tread, it’s very informative. The only thing that scares me now is PCM reprogramming part. I have now Airaid CAI, Detroit rocker cams and a Brenspeed’s tune. I’ve bought a set of Pypes long tubes but hadn’t installed them yet. I’ve asked Brent about the manual swap and he told me that i will need to buy another PCM from a manual car, and after that he will send me a new tune. I’ve tried to contact Lito but he doesn’t want to respond to me. He did respond only once on my very first email and after that i couldn’t reach him.

Try this email if you arent already sending emails to this one, [email protected] he doesnt respond just send him another email sometimes he gets spammed and wont see your emails at times.i would advise you to stay away from brenspeed lito is much better in this situation.

 

[Petro Leontiuk]

Since you're slipping/flaring in 3rd gear the kit will likely fix your problem as the issue appears to be worn servo bores. Adjusting the bands you can do yourself. You don't need to buy anything else other than the kit. The kit price is $219 for the modified servo's. Other than the kit and changing trans fluid/filter that's the extent of the work and parts needed.

Go to the AJ1E site mentioned in the second post and look up the instructions. You can do the servo's without taking the trans out (drop the rear by a few inches to get the clearance needed to remove and install). Depends of course on how confident you and a friend or two are about tackling such a job. If you have access to a lift and someone who can work on cars along with the tools mentioned or buy with the kit that should be the cheapest route by far.

AJ1E Site: www.fordservoboretransmissionfixsolution.com

5R55S Partial Trans Removal Instructions: https://www.fordservoboretransmissi...5/8/1/1/5811077/partial_tranny_removal_r1.pdf

Follow the instructions exactly.

I have bought AJ1E kit and had installed it in the shop. They had to lower transmission with the engine altogether on the k-member in order to be able to replace both servos. They also had adjusted both bands. Right after that i had cleared KAM with my SCT X4 tuner and went for a test drive. There was no sign of 3rd gear at all, it was completely gone! I drove to work and let the car on the parking lot for a few hours. After finishing my work i went home, it was cold outside and late, the streets were free, also the road from the parking lot to my home went downhill and somehow my 3rd hear had resurrected! I was very happy with that fact, but it's lasted only one day, and next evening my 3rd gear started to slipping even harder than before. After that i decided to give up on fixing my 5R55S.
I've bought a used TR-3650 here in Ukraine and everything needed for a swap. Last week i went to the shop and they did the swap. Brent from Brenspeed has made a new tune based on the manual strategy code and retained my stock auto PCM's equizzer id. Car runs without any errors now, but my rear lights are constantly and car feels like it's holding back while accelerating. I think that my PCM now "thinks" that it's in reverse gear and is applying torque limiting. I did some "googling" and have found a few old threads on the forums where people were faced the same thing as i do now. It's strange that this problem is not common, maybe it's somehow connected with a different manual strategy code the tuners are using, i don't know. I want to try to disassemble the C175T plug on the PCM and will remove all pins from it except those two that are required for a starter to run. Maybe after that my reverse lights will turn off. Or maybe you have a better idea? I will really appreciate any thoughts on this issue. Thanks!