BBK CAI/tune needed or not?

Joshiemitsue

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Seeing mixed reviews on this CAI. Will it need the tune later on or is it just fine without the tune. Understandably it should being a performance intake but also seeing people saying codes will pop up immediately and some say they none do. Worth the money and or trouble for a V6?
 

fdjizm

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If it doesn't need a tune it's not really going to add anything (same MAF size)
 

08MustangDude

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You will know when you install it. These cars are sensitive to intakes,
and many do require a tune. Think of it this way, if you put an intake
on that does not require a tune, when why would that intake help you
in the first place? You want the intake that needs a tune, that is a
clear indication that it will get you a significant gain.
 

Granatelli

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The question then becomes - where did the power come from? The intake or custom tune. I would agree for the most part there are a lot of CAI on the market that sound better but don't increase airflow enough to make a difference. Consider a free flow throttle body as well as the CAI and the tune all as one big step
 

08MustangDude

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Both, and here's how you can tell.

Tune the car, keep the factory intake on, and then run it.
Take the factory intake off, put the BBK on, and run it again.

The only way to gain real power with an intake is the bigger MAF, and the
tune to adjust AIR:FUEL for it. I am running the K&N FIPK intake tune,
with the factory intake with a Spectre filter, and it runs fine. As soon
as I can get another intake, I will swap it and see if there are any gains.

The engine is only capable of a max CFM, and the factory intake is well above
the CFM the engine can pull naturally aspirated. The restrictions and turbulence
interference is at the factory intake tube and paper filter. The smooth mandrel
bends of an aftermarket intake remove the turbulence and restriction. Those
accordion sections in an intake tube cause the turbulence. The factory air filter
can be the restriction on air flow, especially as it fills with debris and dirt. Cone
filters, if you were to cut one down the center and roll it out straight, will be twice
as long as the factory filter. The CONE filter covers more area than a flat panel
filter does. A bigger intake tube will increase volume, and if done right, add
a Venturi effect to air-flow as it narrows down to the TB.

Intake does make more of a difference on forced air induction. I had a '15 Jetta
TSI. I put a boost module on it, +4 boost, and ran the factory intake. Was a
lot better, like a whole new car. Then I put the InJen intake on it, and WOW,
what a difference; new car again. Then I went to +6 boost, damn nice. So,
I put the factory intake back on for a test, with +6 boost, and it ran like the
+4 setting with the InJen on. So, they do make a difference for air flow and
volume.
 

Granatelli

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Laminar airflow is defined as air moving at the same speed and in the same direction, with no or minimal cross-over of air streams (or “lamina”). By contrast, turbulent flow creates swirls and eddies that deposit particles on surfaces randomly and unpredictably.

The factory is more concerned with intake air decibels than airflow. Their standards and the aftermarkets standards are world apart.
 

08MustangDude

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They also make intakes for Venturi effect, they start at like 4" then go down to the TB size.
A lot of good aftermarket Charger intakes are like that, the Air Hammer, and what not.

You do not want swirl in the intake, but do going into the combustion chamber. Volkswagen
adds devices that swirl the air into the motor, they call them swirl valves. A P1130 code
for VW would means there is an issue with it; Nissan too... Different for others, like, FORD
it means Lack of Upstream Heated Oxygen Sensor Switch Adaptive Fuel Limit Bank 1, which
is a generic description for other cars, except VW and Nissan...
 

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