Belt Tensioner Assembly- Broke-Help

[Memphis]

Anyone have suggestions as to how to remove a belt tensioner assembly that broke in the area where the 1/2 drive fits in while trying to replace a belt?

I'm a little perplexed. I don't know if it was a bad casting or what but I barely put any effort into turning it just shattered like it was plastic.

I realize since Im asking for help this may not be tech, if so please move it to chit chat. All advice appreciated

 

[stkjock]

100% is tech

can you get a picture to let us better see what you mean

 

[BruceH]

So you can't relieve the tension but still need to take the tensioner off? Three bolts hold it on. If you can get those off it won't matter. Otherwise the only thing I can think of would be to take one of the idlers off or take one bolt out of the alternator to let the tension go.

Are you getting ready to swap motors?

Anyone have suggestions as to how to remove a belt tensioner assembly that broke in the area where the 1/2 drive fits in while trying to replace a belt?

I'm a little perplexed. I don't know if it was a bad casting or what but I barely put any effort into turning it just shattered like it was plastic.

I realize since Im asking for help this may not be tech, if so please move it to chit chat. All advice appreciated

 

[Memphis]

See the circled area where the 1/2 drive goes when you are trying to release tension. As I started to turn it clockwise as per the manual, the circled end here broke off.

I do not know if it is safe to simply unbolt the tensioner when it is under tension.

 

[skwerl]

If you have a pipe wrench you can grab the end of the tensioner arm and pull it back enough to slide the belt off.

edit- just realized you need to push it instead of pull it. Might still work, although if you can approach it from underneath and pull with the wrench it will work better.

 

[Memphis]

Mission Accomplished!

Skwerl- Pushing from up top did the trick! Everything is working again- I don't have to set it on fire..... Went and picked up a new Tensioner and pulley. Got that in, man that is a tight squeeze with the turbo piping

Little bit of background. Car has been stalling, throwing odd codes right and left. Driving me nuts. Threw the book at it, replaced the battery with an OPTIMA red top- New Alternator and wiring upgrade. In retrospect I should have put a new belt on while I was at it.

Runs like it hasn't run for a while. Kicking myself for not catching on sooner after reading all the alternator horror story's.

Oh well live and learn. Now I just got to figure out why the H9 headlight plug adapters melted in the Raxiom Projector headlights (Not running HID kit- Tried 6 different ones before giving up and getting the Raxioms.) Thanks for the tips.

Bruce. Keep planning on putting that longblock in, but everything is breaking around the house! Lawnmower, dishwasher, then the dryer, then the alternator and battery and my anniversary is coming up. I will get that longblock in, its killing me sitting there! Got some valve covers on it, some chrome shorty headers, stage 8 locking bolts, installed the aftermarket water temp sensor in the block and installed a 90 degree filter adapter to move the oil filter so its not banging on the cold side and setup a oil filter adapter setup with AN lines.

 

[DiMora]

Consider buying a Roush, Steeda or thump racing upgraded tensioner: http://www.thumpracing.com/

Edelbrock also makes a stiffener brace you can add for ~$50.00 or so.

 

[ksack]

+1 for the Thumprr

 

[Memphis]

Thanks for the heads up! That Thumpr is a gorgeous piece, but I think I will take a look at the Edelbrock piece first for a significant savings. Thanks for all the help.

 

[19COBRA93]

See if you can jam a 3/8" ratchet in one of the other holes, or wedge a long screw driver or pry bar lengthwise between the pulley and arm and then under the mounting base, then push down and slip the belt off a different pulley. If that makes sense.

 

[Dubstep Shep]

I had the exact same thing happen, though I was running a DOB frakentensioner setup.

Here's the damage:

And here was my solution, sorry for the poor pic quality.

Basically I bent an aluminum plate to match the end of the tensioner and then welded it on there. Haven't had a problem since.

 

[DiMora]

The Edelbrock tensioner brace:

And the Roush P51 tensioner:

 

[AutoXRacer]

Can you run an upgrade tensioner on a stock accessory drive?
Meaning, I went from having a single belt blower setup where I needed the upgraded tensioner, to a dual belt setup. Now I have the accessories on a separate/stock belt and blower running its own belt with own tensioner.

Would there be any issues like pre-mature wear or anything on the bearings and accessories running an upgraded tensioner on a stock drive system...?

I found 3 blown bearings when I pulled my motor earlier this year; I had installed brand new pulleys and they only ran for 10K miles.

 

[Dubstep Shep]

Yea, any time you put added tension on your belt system you're going to wear bearing quicker. Alternator bearing would probably be the first to go.

 

[BruceH]

It has been reported before. Mostly on modularfords iirc. Only with the most powerful tensioners.

More info on the blown bearings? Pictures?

Can you run an upgrade tensioner on a stock accessory drive?
Meaning, I went from having a single belt blower setup where I needed the upgraded tensioner, to a dual belt setup. Now I have the accessories on a separate/stock belt and blower running its own belt with own tensioner.

Would there be any issues like pre-mature wear or anything on the bearings and accessories running an upgraded tensioner...?

I found 3 blown bearings when I pulled my motor earlier this year; I had installed brand new pulleys and they only ran for 10K miles.

 

[TheKurgan]

+2 on Thumprr...2.87 pulley on my Paxton with 6 rib system and it doesn't slip. I was amazed.

 

[eighty6gt]

Anecdotal info: I have the P51 Roush tensioner and my pulleys were fine after about 15,000 miles. I haven't had the belt off/car apart since. Total mileage is about 80,000. I lost my alternator, it did have bearing issues, but that was long before this supercharger business.

 

[AutoXRacer]

It has been reported before. Mostly on modularfords iirc. Only with the most powerful tensioners.

More info on the blown bearings? Pictures?

No pictures. I bought a set of Metco pulleys and 3 bearings were shot/leaking and wobbly.

I am running the Steeda tensioner.
http://www.steeda.com/steeda-mustang-heavy-duty-belt-tensioner-555-3348/

 

[Kylar]

The Roush is the best bang for the buck IMO at about $140. Its a completely different MUCH thicker arm, not just a brace or metal welded to the front of a stock unit (Edelbrock/Steeda). Plus neither of those really strengthen the 1/2" drive area. Frankentensioner might be strong, but as you can see it puts even more pressure on the weak 1/2 drive hole.
The Thumper unit is sick, but at $400+ might be a bit rich for some peoples taste

Im using the Roush with my Vortech setup and it works great.

 

[Dubstep Shep]

The Roush is the best bang for the buck IMO at about $140. Its a completely different MUCH thicker arm, not just a brace or metal welded to the front of a stock unit (Edelbrock/Steeda). Plus neither of those really strengthen the 1/2" drive area. Frankentensioner might be strong, but as you can see it puts even more pressure on the weak 1/2 drive hole.
The Thumper unit is sick, but at $400+ might be a bit rich for some peoples taste

Im using the Roush with my Vortech setup and it works great.

I disagree.

Even if you break a frankentensioner, they're only $35 to replace. Strengthening the 1/2 drive hole is easy with the edlebrock setup or a plate like I did.

But to each their own.