Best way to test fuel pumps?

[Sonicblue_s197]

Does anybody know what that grey wire that's on the remote pump one does or go to? I followed it to the trunk and it goes to the FPDM module. That's the part I don't understand, I was told that triggers your pump but I don't get how lol

 

[BruceH]

Stupid question time. The tune is adjusted for a return system, right?

 

[Sonicblue_s197]

Stupid question time. The tune is adjusted for a return system, right?

Yes lito is taking care of the tuning

 

[JeremyH]

This is the most reliable way to wire it. This is how I have had mine setup since the fc3 came out and how Fore reccommends. Trying to use an output from the fpdm can cause weirdness. Completely removing them is my reccommendation for a return setup.




Also your wiring at your controller leaves alot to be desired with stray bare strands hanging out. The ends need to be twisted tight and tinned over with no stray wiring which could be shorting to the case.

 

[Sonicblue_s197]

This is the most reliable way to wire it. This is how I have had mine setup since the fc3 came out and how Fore reccommends. Also your wiring at your controller leaves alot to be desired with stray bare strands hanging out. The ends need to be twisted tight and tinned over with no stray wiring which could be shorting to the case.

That helps thanks man! I just needed to know what that grey wire did so I can test,

 

[Sonicblue_s197]

This is the most reliable way to wire it. This is how I have had mine setup since the fc3 came out and how Fore reccommends. Trying to use an output from the fpdm can cause weirdness. Completely removing them is my reccommendation for a return setup.






Also your wiring at your controller leaves alot to be desired with stray bare strands hanging out. The ends need to be twisted tight and tinned over with no stray wiring which could be shorting to the case.

Where would you recommend wiring the trigger wire instead of the FPDM?

 

[05stroker]

But disconnecting them from the hobbs wouldn't it just not run at all? How would it power the other 2?

If you disconnect the two wires from the Hobbs switch and twist them together, you should have all three pumps running all the time. That will tell you if you Hobbs switch is bad or not.

The grey trigger wire that goes back to the fpdm, what pin is it go to on the fpdm?

 

[Sonicblue_s197]

If you disconnect the two wires from the Hobbs switch and twist them together, you should have all three pumps running all the time. That will tell you if you Hobbs switch is bad or not.

The grey trigger wire that goes back to the fpdm, what pin is it go to on the fpdm?

 

[Sonicblue_s197]

That grey wire that goes to the FPDM ties into a white wire under my thumb, then it goes back toward the front of the car. I need to grab a better picture of it. But that blue wire came out of the connector and that yellow wire was clipped for some reason. I fixed the blue wire

 

[05stroker]

The "yellow" wire is a discolored white wire, so at least you are connected to the right one. Have you tried to connect the two wires together at the Hobbs switch and test the fuel pressure yet?

Also as mentioned before, you really should remove those wires and tin them with a soldering iron. The stray wires hanging out can make contact with the controller case and damage the relays inside. I assume you have already checked the fuses on the controller?

 

[JeremyH]

Thats the correct wire the inertia switch wire usually white in the factory harness ocasionally yellow. That wire runs to the inertia reset switch by the hood release. It also runs through the driver side loom going right by where you have your fc3. If you cleaned it up and tapped in there you would cut about 12ft of wire as well. Thats what I did.

 

[redfirepearlgt]

Did a twin setup like this for a friend runnign Fore innovations stuff. We did not use the fore innovation box you have but rather sourced relays. In our setup, the "remote wire" is the wire coming from the fuel pump relay via inertia switch to energize the pump (as memory serves) via the FPDM in a stock setup. And yes the FPDM was completely bypassed. No need for it in your application. Your pumps are eiither on or off. This signal is what tells your Fore Innovations module to turn pump one on at "key on". Pumps two and three are triggered via your "HOBBS" switch AKA pressure switch. Fore innovations standardly (according to them at the time) uses 2psi to activate the additional pumps. This is done for street applications so that heat is not built up in the tank due to continuous running of the pumps when higher volume is not needed under normal driving conditions. Racing applications will have all pumps running all the time.

That said, we tested the HOBBS switch with an air hose to verify it worked. Often a failing HOBBS switch will work at higher pressure but fail when lower pressures are present. This was the case with our new and out of the box. Point being (and not saying this is your problem) testing a HOBBS switch with pressure above its rated levl of activation can trick the crap out of your TS process. As stated bypass the swicth altogether. That will allow all three pumps to drive continuous. Then see if your pressure issues resides. Remember that in order to maintain pressure at a given setpoint through a known path of resistance the volume to keep it there is vital. Without volume pressure will peter off as volume demand rises. Hope this helps.

 

[Sonicblue_s197]

The "yellow" wire is a discolored white wire, so at least you are connected to the right one. Have you tried to connect the two wires together at the Hobbs switch and test the fuel pressure yet?

Also as mentioned before, you really should remove those wires and tin them with a soldering iron. The stray wires hanging out can make contact with the controller case and damage the relays inside. I assume you have already checked the fuses on the controller?

Good to hear, I haven't yet but I'm headed home from work now IL start with cleaning up the wires on the controller and disconnect the 2 wires from the hobbs switch and tie them together. and yes the 3 fuses are good to go I checked them Friday.

 

[Sonicblue_s197]

Thats the correct wire the inertia switch wire usually white in the factory harness ocasionally yellow. That wire runs to the inertia reset switch by the hood release. It also runs through the driver side loom going right by where you have your fc3. If you cleaned it up and tapped in there you would cut about 12ft of wire as well. Thats what I did.

Yea all them wires run right by them that would make things a lot easier to have next to each other. I'm fixing to run that test shortly disconnecting the hobbs switch and if it works IL be rerouting that wire closer

 

[Sonicblue_s197]

Did a twin setup like this for a friend runnign Fore innovations stuff. We did not use the fore innovation box you have but rather sourced relays. In our setup, the "remote wire" is the wire coming from the fuel pump relay via inertia switch to energize the pump (as memory serves) via the FPDM in a stock setup. And yes the FPDM was completely bypassed. No need for it in your application. Your pumps are eiither on or off. This signal is what tells your Fore Innovations module to turn pump one on at "key on". Pumps two and three are triggered via your "HOBBS" switch AKA pressure switch. Fore innovations standardly (according to them at the time) uses 2psi to activate the additional pumps. This is done for street applications so that heat is not built up in the tank due to continuous running of the pumps when higher volume is not needed under normal driving conditions. Racing applications will have all pumps running all the time.

That said, we tested the HOBBS switch with an air hose to verify it worked. Often a failing HOBBS switch will work at higher pressure but fail when lower pressures are present. This was the case with our new and out of the box. Point being (and not saying this is your problem) testing a HOBBS switch with pressure above its rated levl of activation can trick the crap out of your TS process. As stated bypass the swicth altogether. That will allow all three pumps to drive continuous. Then see if your pressure issues resides. Remember that in order to maintain pressure at a given setpoint through a known path of resistance the volume to keep it there is vital. Without volume pressure will peter off as volume demand rises. Hope this helps.

I'm gunna try disconnecting the hobbs switch here shortly and see what it does, IL report back in a few hours thank you for all the info!

 

[redfirepearlgt]

I'm gunna try disconnecting the hobbs switch here shortly and see what it does, IL report back in a few hours thank you for all the info!

no problem. Love to hear back how it goes. Fore Innovations is awesome to deal with tech wise BTW.

 

[Sonicblue_s197]

It's working so far, I'm gunna head out and run a log

 

[Sonicblue_s197]

 

[Sonicblue_s197]

Cleaned up the wires, while I was working on this the ground slipped right out on its own it wasn't even tight. That probably could have been part of the problem.

 

[JeremyH]

For sure the intermitent ground was likely underdriving the pumps and not activating the trigger circuitry properly. I would bet that was your whole issue right there. Correctly done terminal ends and solid connections are crucial so everthing works right and is reliable.