Bleeding clutch lines.

[explict]

So after a friend and I finished my motor build I got a base tune and started driving around to put km's on it. First thing I notice is the clutch pedal feels like it is disconnected... Forgot to bleed the clutch. So I went online and found how to do it. I went and bought a little hand held vacuum pump, connected it to the brake/clutch fluid reservoir pumped until 15psi or whatever the Ford manual said. Left it for a minute disconnected it, closed lid, pumped pedal like 10 times. I did this about 15 times. The clutch pedal DID get stiffer but it is still not all there. Or could this problem be from the slave cylinder not being properly bled? (I never actually installed a friend did this part, not sure if he did or not)

Can anyone give me a detailed description of how to bleed these clutch lines? Not just a "I just pumped the pedal" description.

 

[ChevyKiller]

1. Make sure all hydraulic lines are correctly seated. Make sure all bleed screws are tightened to specification.
2. Tighten to 71 lb-in.
3. Make sure the clutch pedal is in the most upward position.
4. Check the fluid level of the brake/clutch reservoir. Fill the reservoir with the specified fluid to the MAX mark.
5. Using a suitable bleeder kit and a vacuum pump, install the rubber stopper in the reservoir opening. Make sure the rubber stopper has a tight fit.
Alternate method: use a 50 mm (1.96 in) rubber stopper with an 8 mm (0.31 in) pipe inserted through the rubber stopper.
6. Holding the rubber stopper in place, operate the vacuum pump to 15-20 inches of vacuum. Hold the vacuum for one minute, then quickly relieve the vacuum. Remove the special tools.
7. Check the fluid level of the reservoir. Fill the reservoir with the specified fluid to the MAX mark. Install the reservoir cap.
8. Depress and release the clutch pedal 10 to 12 times or until clutch pedal effort is consistent and positive at top of clutch pedal travel.
9. Repeat Steps 4 through 6 two additional times or until clutch pedal effort is consistent and positive at top of clutch pedal travel.
10. Install the reservoir cap.

Check the clutch pedal reserve. Test the clutch system for normal operation.

 

[explict]

Anyone have info on the other method?
Some people say "just pump it" Do they mean just get in the car and pump the clutch until it gets better? Keep the lid on? Off? Fast pumps? slow pumps?

 

[onebadgsx]

i just jacked up the driver front only and pumped the shit out of it. works like a charm. i replace the slave and clutch line so i had a bunch of air and this worked for me.

 

[FordEvangelist]

I've had my transmission out many times unfortunately - unless something is loose, broke, or cracked the clutch will actually bleed itself over night or within 3 minutes of pumping. I have one of those vacuum things, too and I use it to speed up the process.

The first time I pulled the tranny though I just pumped the clutch for about 3 mins and all was well. Using the vacuum thing cut it down to maybe 30seconds.

I never bled the slave, either even though that's probably a good idea.

So yeah if it's not bled yet you might have a leak either externally or the slave is leaking internally.

 

[ChevyKiller]

That sounds very possible - he may need to replace the slave.

 

[concours_greg]

i just jacked up the driver front only and pumped the shit out of it. works like a charm. i replace the slave and clutch line so i had a bunch of air and this worked for me.

Agreed! Works like a charm.

 

[RRRoamer]

So what does jacking up the drivers side do? It looks like the reservoir is way higher than the slave anyway, so jacking it up wouldn't really change the force of gravity working on it much.

Or am I missing something else here?

 

[concours_greg]

So what does jacking up the drivers side do? It looks like the reservoir is way higher than the slave anyway, so jacking it up wouldn't really change the force of gravity working on it much.

Or am I missing something else here?

I think the hose has a slight downward bend in it next to the transmission - I think!

It just works... not sure how, but it does.

 

[onebadgsx]

helps air move up i guess. i dont know it just worked...

 

[RRRoamer]

Thanks.

 

[explict]

So new question. I am doing some brake upgrades and am changing the fluid to new different fluid. Is there anything special I should do to get the fluid out of the clutch line?

 

[DirtyDogOfTheDesert]

Unless you're doing some road racing or something really hard on the brakes just run the stock fluid. There is no way to circulate all original fluid out of the clutch system.

Are you going to make it down this week for your tune? EB arrives this Sunday!

 

[explict]

I'll make it for the tune, I don't think I will be able to track it though....Unless I can get this clutch issue fixed. Grinds in second gear everytime, hard to start out in first, clutch pedal feels really soft, car clunks when I put into reverse...

 

[JeremyH]

Def sounds like the slave, replace it with a new oem one.

 

[explict]

This sucks I might not even make it to tuning.....
Slave is the same for 3650 and TR6060 in our cars is it not? as in I can ask for a GT500 TOB/Slave and ask for a 05+ Mustang GT TOB/Slave?

 

[DirtyDogOfTheDesert]

Yes the slaves are the same.

You better make it down!!

 

[explict]

Got a new slave from Ford today. Not going in on time, but I am sure the car can still be tuned because other than it grinding in second gear, being hard to get into first jumping going into reverse the car drives amazing. I just need to get a trailer!!

 

[trill gear head]

Be careful, you can really hurt your trans and if you slave is bad enough it can leave you stranded. Mine got so bad that I was unable to pull the car out of gear.

 

[explict]

Ya I think the only work this slave will have to do is get on and off the dyno. That is if I can get a hold of a trailer!!