Blow by? Oil leak? Tranny leak?

[one.wicked.stang]

Second thoughts on having someone do it, any pointers to trans removal???

 

[TexasBlownV8]

like what? it's fairly straightforward. If you have an automatic, remove the TC nuts/bolts first before separating the engine/tranny.

 

[one.wicked.stang]

I figured since youve done it you may have some pointers/tricks. Did you do it with a lift or on jack stands??? Ive removed trannys before so Im aware of the principals behind it, but all the ones Ive removed were on 60s and early 70s Mustangs, *cough* Pintos (V8 conversion), Chevelles, and Camaros. Didnt have to worry about electrical crap, 02s, etc.

 

[TexasBlownV8]

Pretty-standard removal. Carefully remove the wiring harness off the trans after disconnecting all the connectors (3 small ones on top, 2 bigger ones on side, with one being bolted in/down). The linkage is a little tricky, but it'll pry right off the linkage stub.
Remove the 2 fluid line connectors on passenger side, being careful not to mess up the fittings; you may need 2 wrenches for this, one to hold the fitting in the transmission housing, the other to turn the line fitting nut. A little bit of fluid will come out with those lines removed.
Get the exhaust out of the way if it helps removing the O2 sensors as needed so you dont damage them (with longtubes, it's easier just to remove the sensors and x/h pipe past the headers.)
When ready to start unbolting the transmission itself, first disconnect the Torque Converter (TC). Loosen/remove the torque converter nuts/bolts first, using the access hole (with the rubber plug in it) on the lower driver side of the engine to get to the bolts, and/or get to the TC bolts/nuts from the cover/shield underneath as well. Rotate engine to get to all 4 bolts/nuts until removed, then break loose the transmission housing bolts, and make sure the trans jack is properly under the trans (oh yeah, loosen/remove the crossmember support, using the trans jack to hold, slightly raise the transmission).
Get all the bellhousing bolts out, using the jack, work the transmission backward and away from the motor. Make sure the TC doesn't fall out! With it sitting at an angle toward the back, it shouldn't fall out, but be prepared if it sticks to the flexplate!

Using jackstands, it's hard to get the transmission out from under the car. You may have to really get the car high or get the transmission off the jack and lower to the ground (with help ideally) and work it out that way.

Hope that helps some. I mainly followed the Ford service manual steps, but figured out the semi-obvious things at times as well.

 

[one.wicked.stang]

Found a Rotunda tool kit on Ebay with all the parts required for $65 shipped, TexasBlownV8 thanks for the offer of renting, I've never been a big fan of borrowing someones tools, figure if I need the tools go buy them, even if its a one time use, can always resell later. Now just waiting on TCI parts to get here.....still. I figured since the tranny is going to be out I might as well also add the updated Ford solenoid pack and a new filter to it. Now just trying to decide if I should put OEM fluids back in or a different type like Amsoil or RP. This delay in parts arrival is killing me, havent driven the car in about 3 weeks!

 

[one.wicked.stang]

FINALLY getting the TCI parts, scheduled for delivery today! Any pointers on putting in the upgraded servos? The input shaft seems easy enough, just make sure to put in the same way (justification) as the old one.

 

[TexasBlownV8]

THe hardest part of the servo installs is getting the covers off and back on; you have to push them in to release pressure on the snap-rings that hold them in place. I used a big bar-clamp on one of them, and then made a 'jig' to press in the other one.

When releasing the cover when the snap ring is removed, release gently, and slowly remove the plunger. You dont want the inner clutch lever or whetever is in there to fall out. Have the new servos put together and ready to go it, put a little trans fluid on them, and gently put them back into place.
Do one at a time.

..and good deal on finding the seal kit!!!!... glad you found one!!!

When I did my servo installs, Tanner (Natural1) helped with questions I had on how to do it w/o needing to tear down the transmission. As long as nothing falls off/down internally when you remove the servos plungers, you'll be fine. But, if a clip or something does fall down inside, it's rebuild time .

Good luck!

 

[one.wicked.stang]

Any special position you had the trans in, laying on ground? laying on side? etc?

 

[TexasBlownV8]

...sitting on a jack stand under the car...same position as if it was mounted.

 

[one.wicked.stang]

Cool, thanks for that. Now, while searching the forums I've found some pics of the stock servos removed and they have springs on them, do they get transferred over? Also, the TCI servo kits have NO instructions as to assembly, the o-rings on one were easy to figure out 2 the same size 1 smaller, the other has 3, 2 same diameter and 1 a thinner diameter. I've assemble and included pics, seems straight forward as how to put together correctly. The thinner of the o-rings are on the silver parts in the pics.

 

[TexasBlownV8]

You'll know you have them assembled properly when you compare them to the stockers you remove. Make sure to put some trans fluid on the o-rings before putting them in.

 

[one.wicked.stang]

ok but what about the springs, do they get re-used?

 

[one.wicked.stang]

Picked up the car today, AMAZING POWER with that PI triple disc 3500 stall, haven't really noticed any difference with the TCI servos and hardened input shaft for strength (and piece of mind), but car gets into the power band quickly!! Also changed the filter and put in the updated solenoid pack. So, new rear main seal and goodies to go with it. Took long enough but its worth it!

 

[TexasBlownV8]

Great!!!