Boss Intake

[jmauld]

I am going to ask again, why are we concerned about dyno numbers?

From my testing the Boss intake is worth 1.5 tenths on an auto with the correct supporting mods, being a converter and good tune. It's not that the Boss intake makes more peak HP, it is that it makes the same power for ~1K RPM. Combine that with the right tire/gear and the car is in peak power going down the track for a longer period of time vs. the stock intake.

Track times can't show what you just claimed. But a back to back dyno would.

 

[Five Oh Brian]

All I'm running is the 4C as well. A 5C would probably have me in the 11.00's-11.10's range.

Curious if you feel that your Boss intake helped at all. And, what kind of times is your car running with its current setup?

 

[Five Oh Brian]

3760 lbs .331 gear

Thank you! Your car runs hard. You have a few vague mods listed in your signature, but I'd love to know your complete mod list.

 

[Five Oh Brian]

It's your money and you have it all figured out. I am willing to help just about anyone and have provided some pointers and data to you however you have decided on blind faith instead.

Good luck on your endeavors.

See, here's the thing; I don't have it all figured out. I'm trying to understand if a Boss intake will work in harmony with the other mods I have since the other mods are aimed at working in a higher rpm range than stock. My gut tells me that if all of my mods are designed to shine in the same rpm range, then they should work well together. Is my logic flawed?

 

[Five Oh Brian]

Lol...another day, another argument about Brian's car.

And I'll never understand why there's so much hating on my car. It seemed to start when the 4.10 gears went in and hasn't let up since. My car is very quick for how lightly modded it is. 100% stock engine with the stock paper filter in the stock airbox. 100% stock suspension. Stock exhaust manifolds. Heavy, well optioned, daily driver running 11.60's. What's not to like?

 

[wbt]

Track times can't show what you just claimed. But a back to back dyno would.

Plenty of that info available out there already. No need to recreate the wheel.

See, here's the thing; I don't have it all figured out. I'm trying to understand if a Boss intake will work in harmony with the other mods I have since the other mods are aimed at working in a higher rpm range than stock. My gut tells me that if all of my mods are designed to shine in the same rpm range, then they should work well together. Is my logic flawed?

The following post is what you want to concentrate on. 3.31 rear gear is your friend. If you want to keep more gear in the car then a 4.30 is needed although not recommended.

http://www.s197forum.com/forum/showpost.php?p=2217139&postcount=28

 

[Grabber Blue 5.0]

Curious if you feel that your Boss intake helped at all. And, what kind of times is your car running with its current setup?

Honestly Brian I'm not so sure. I installed the Boss Intake and converter at the same time. Picked up .6 tenths with those two mods so just a guess but the converter was worth .4 tenths to .5 tenths. So I'm not so sure the intake was worth it. My old combos best was 11.2 last year. But I sold my Weld RT-S 17x5 skinny's for a more street friendly Weld 17x7 wheel and have yet to go this year. Closest track for me is close to three hours away.

It's evident that you like the feel of what low end gears and a loose converter makes your car feel on the street so I don't think you would like the feel of the Boss Intake but it wouldn't cost you much to try it out. But in the end your car is a street fun car first, much like the majority of our cars are.

-Scott

 

[FIVE-OH]

And I'll never understand why there's so much hating on my car. It seemed to start when the 4.10 gears went in and hasn't let up since. My car is very quick for how lightly modded it is. 100% stock engine with the stock paper filter in the stock airbox. 100% stock suspension. Stock exhaust manifolds. Heavy, well optioned, daily driver running 11.60's. What's not to like?

A lot of it (I think) is just busting your chops for you selection in gear ratio and always bringing up weight. I mean I am not as modded as you, so ET's can't be compared but my car with me in it is nearly 4000 lbs. You play into it sometimes, and you know how that works here.


I must ask, even if you are not willing to do a gear swap, and are so concerned about ET's, why don't you do some suspension mods? Even something as simple as LCA's with your converter may help your 60' even more and they are cheap...

 

[Five Oh Brian]

Honestly Brian I'm not so sure. I installed the Boss Intake and converter at the same time. Picked up .6 tenths with those two mods so just a guess but the converter was worth .4 tenths to .5 tenths. So I'm not so sure the intake was worth it. My old combos best was 11.2 last year. But I sold my Weld RT-S 17x5 skinny's for a more street friendly Weld 17x7 wheel and have yet to go this year. Closest track for me is close to three hours away.

It's evident that you like the feel of what low end gears and a loose converter makes your car feel on the street so I don't think you would like the feel of the Boss Intake but it wouldn't cost you much to try it out. But in the end your car is a street fun car first, much like the majority of our cars are.

-Scott

Scott, thank you for the feedback - much appreciated!

 

[Five Oh Brian]

A lot of it (I think) is just busting your chops for you selection in gear ratio and always bringing up weight. I mean I am not as modded as you, so ET's can't be compared but my car with me in it is nearly 4000 lbs. You play into it sometimes, and you know how that works here.

I must ask, even if you are not willing to do a gear swap, and are so concerned about ET's, why don't you do some suspension mods? Even something as simple as LCA's with your converter may help your 60' even more and they are cheap...

I know we all have a little fun now and then harassing each other, but at the end of the day we all want to learn from each other.

If I swap gears again, it would likely be 3.90's to stretch 4th gear out a little more than the 4.10's. Trapping 118 mph in 4th on a 28" DR means that my car upshifts to fifth just after the 1/4 mile. If I find any more power (and mph), I'll need less gear to keep it in 4th across the stripes.

I did LCA's and the UCA in my '11 GT. Too much NVH for my liking. My '14 GT is a comfortable, quiet daily driver and my sixty foots are pretty decent already (1.60 to 1.63 almost every time). Car launches easy, straight, and drama free, so I don't think suspension is necessary for my goals with the car.

I'd like my car to run 11.30's at sea level DA so that I can run solidly in the mid 11's even when our DA spikes into the 2000' + range in the summertime and I can let off and coast to 11.50's in cooler weather. I refuse to install the 6 point rollbar required under 11.50 as I actually use my back seat regularly, so I really can't mod this car much more.

Thanks for taking the time to share some wisdom.

 

[wbt]

I know we all have a little fun now and then harassing each other, but at the end of the day we all want to learn from each other.

If I swap gears again, it would likely be 3.90's to stretch 4th gear out a little more than the 4.10's. Trapping 118 mph in 4th on a 28" DR means that my car upshifts to fifth just after the 1/4 mile. If I find any more power (and mph), I'll need less gear to keep it in 4th across the stripes.

I did LCA's and the UCA in my '11 GT. Too much NVH for my liking. My '14 GT is a comfortable, quiet daily driver and my sixty foots are pretty decent already (1.60 to 1.63 almost every time). Car launches easy, straight, and drama free, so I don't think suspension is necessary for my goals with the car.

I'd like my car to run 11.30's at sea level DA so that I can run solidly in the mid 11's even when our DA spikes into the 2000' + range in the summertime and I can let off and coast to 11.50's in cooler weather. I refuse to install the 6 point rollbar required under 11.50 as I actually use my back seat regularly, so I really can't mod this car much more.

Thanks for taking the time to share some wisdom.

A good alternative on the UCA is the Roush upper control arm. No NVH increase and is a much better piece than the stock control arm. The only downside is it is still non-adjustable so if you replace the driveshaft you will want to use the CV joint style vs. a slip yoke style. DSS is the one to get there.

 

[FIVE-OH]

I did LCA's and the UCA in my '11 GT. Too much NVH for my liking. My '14 GT is a comfortable, quiet daily driver and my sixty foots are pretty decent already (1.60 to 1.63 almost every time). Car launches easy, straight, and drama free, so I don't think suspension is necessary for my goals with the car.

If you get a decent set of tubular (less stiff then boxed, but still way better then OEM) LCA's with good bushings and grease them with the proper grease, meaning not "trailer grease" like most guns have, but some good synthetic Amsoil grease the difference from stock to aftermarket is barely noticeable as far as NVH goes. I have aftermarket LCA's, relocation brackets and an adjustable panhard rod and my increase in NVH was maybe 10-15%. Car definatley launches better (handles better too) and I am on the stock converter. Would be an even bigger difference if I had a Circle D in there...I say do it.

 

[2011/5.0]

I run the roush upper and its works well and no noise