break in oil options

[BeachMonkey100]

while still on the debate over moly vs stainless rings, it's time to talk about oil. what has anyone used for break in oil? a few buddies are telling me gibbs, but they don't make a 20 weight oil while keeping my clearances in mind. opinions, problems using one over the other, chime in!

 

[dysan]

I have just used plain old penzoil dino oil for my break ins. It's not like we have flat tappet cams in our cars to worry about.

 

[skwerl]

IMO break in is when the moving metal pieces wear into place so they fit tightly. Just my opinion, but too good of an oil will limit friction and prevent the pieces from wearing into place as well or as quickly as an oil with less lubricity. On my Bullitt engine build I just used some very cheap 5w-30 that my mechanic stocks as his budget house brand. I think it was Wolf's Head brand, although the Advance Auto or Auto Zone store brand oils would work fine as well.

After 2500 miles or so I'd switch up to a premium synthetic oil. I use Mobil 1 extended life oil and have for over 10 years. None of my vehicles burn much oil or have any oil related issues. My 02 F150 with 155K miles burns a quart every 5K miles.

 

[05stroker]

I just pre prime the motor with the same oil I am going to use in the motor, with a garden sprayer, run for a few heat cycles and and a short cruise then change it. Then again at 500 miles or two track days. I don't use synthetic though, I use Castrol 10w40 in my car and 50w in the summer months. My motors are built very loose though.

 

[niner555]

I ran the Driven/Gibbs BR30 for my 500 mile break-in period. Stuff worked great, no ring seal issues at all. After break-in, I drained the oil, swapped the filter and filled up with 6 qts. of the LS30. Motor has been running great ever since......really like the Driven oil products.

 

[BeachMonkey100]

I like the Gibbs stuff too, it's all we use in the race cars for break in and never have a problem. But the clearances on those compared to this build are two different stories. Not sure if it would be smart to use the BR30 for break in due to clearances. Only thing I am worried about is ring sealing with the steel ring

 

[05stroker]

The only way I would ever use steel rings myself is if I already had a good tune and was just rebuilding the same motor. I have seen too many people mess around and not get the rings sealed before the tunr is right. Just me though.

 

[BruceH]

I've used a variety of standard oils. The current motor was broken in with Walmart Super Tech 5w-20. I've also used Castrol and Mobil. I think the Walmart is currently made by Mobil anyway.

Since I don't have a clean room to build the motor in I feel that a quick oil change is a must. The last time I added Jegs break in additive to the second oil fill. The first oil fill usually only stays in the motor for start up and first drive. I try to put a load on the motor as soon as possible. The second fill usually stays in for one to two thousand miles and then it's semi or full synthetic.

 

[BeachMonkey100]

The only way I would ever use steel rings myself is if I already had a good tune and was just rebuilding the same motor. I have seen too many people mess around and not get the rings sealed before the tunr is right. Just me though.

I have a perfectly well functioning tune, though I have never heard of a tune messing with ring seating and sealing.

 

[BeachMonkey100]

I've used a variety of standard oils. The current motor was broken in with Walmart Super Tech 5w-20. I've also used Castrol and Mobil. I think the Walmart is currently made by Mobil anyway.

Since I don't have a clean room to build the motor in I feel that a quick oil change is a must. The last time I added Jegs break in additive to the second oil fill. The first oil fill usually only stays in the motor for start up and first drive. I try to put a load on the motor as soon as possible. The second fill usually stays in for one to two thousand miles and then it's semi or full synthetic.

Well before we ever used gibbs for break in and race oil, we used castrol standard oil with crane cams additive, never had a problem with it.

 

[05stroker]

I have a perfectly well functioning tune, though I have never heard of a tune messing with ring seating and sealing.

Thats good to hear. What I am referring to is when there are start up and run issues such as over fueling and such. Sounds like you are in good shape.

 

[BeachMonkey100]

Thats good to hear. What I am referring to is when there are start up and run issues such as over fueling and such. Sounds like you are in good shape.

That's what I thought you were referring too, which is referred to cylinder wash or almost a hydro lock situation which is rare on these unless something is seriously wrong with the tune/injectors.

On our limited modified motors we ran karts if we idled them to long in the grid waiting to go out onto the track you risked hydro locking the cylinder due to the raw fuel being dumped in, different situation but same consequence on the dyno, if the rings weren't seated with a load on the dyno as soon as possible it was time to tear it down and re ring it.

But I should be fine tune wise for the break in, only thing I have to check tomorrow is what finish the machine shop left on the walls when they did my machine work.

 

[travelers]

We use NAPA 15/40 regular oil to brake in the race engine on the dyno and then Gibbs oil after that.

 

[G.T]

i only use Royal Purple break-in oil on all the engine i build.. so far, so very good

 

[SSPSTANGBANGER]

i only use Royal Purple break-in oil on all the engine i build.. so far, so very good

Me too RP Break-in oil in all the mod motors I build/install. I have used the Joe Gibbs too but since I run RP oil and get a deal on it I use the Break-in now too.

 

[BeachMonkey100]

Well after getting the hook up on some BR30 I plan to go that route, and our motorcraft filters are cheap enough I will grab a few of those and be on my way!

 

[702GT]

I've used a variety of standard oils. The current motor was broken in with Walmart Super Tech 5w-20. I've also used Castrol and Mobil. I think the Walmart is currently made by Mobil anyway.

Since I don't have a clean room to build the motor in I feel that a quick oil change is a must. The last time I added Jegs break in additive to the second oil fill. The first oil fill usually only stays in the motor for start up and first drive. I try to put a load on the motor as soon as possible. The second fill usually stays in for one to two thousand miles and then it's semi or full synthetic.

This is how we did my friends '03 cobra when we rebuilt his. Regular Castrol 5w20. First start get the engine up to temp, rev the motor a bit after burping the coolant system, take it for a spin around the block to make sure all is well as it should be, park it, let it cool, and dump the oil. Another 6qts of regular 5w20 and it's off to the dyno to get ripped on. After the dyno clock 500 miles of regular traffic, no road trips or long freeway cruises. At 500 we dump the last of the regular oil and he switches to the oil he intends to keep in it (in his case, Motorcraft 5w20 synthetic blend). His next oil change shouldn't be until 6k-7k/mi later after that.

^This is our ritual. There are many variations to breaking in a motor, but this way has worked for us. I think it's important to run a regular (non-synthetic) oil for startup and dyno+miles. As stated previously, synthetic oils reduce friction, and you need friction and heat for break in.

 

[BeachMonkey100]

This is how we did my friends '03 cobra when we rebuilt his. Regular Castrol 5w20. First start get the engine up to temp, rev the motor a bit after burping the coolant system, take it for a spin around the block to make sure all is well as it should be, park it, let it cool, and dump the oil. Another 6qts of regular 5w20 and it's off to the dyno to get ripped on. After the dyno clock 500 miles of regular traffic, no road trips or long freeway cruises. At 500 we dump the last of the regular oil and he switches to the oil he intends to keep in it (in his case, Motorcraft 5w20 synthetic blend). His next oil change shouldn't be until 6k-7k/mi later after that.

^This is our ritual. There are many variations to breaking in a motor, but this way has worked for us. I think it's important to run a regular (non-synthetic) oil for startup and dyno+miles. As stated previously, synthetic oils reduce friction, and you need friction and heat for break in.

That sounds like my ritual for the race cars lol, except using a dyno we use the track and put roughly 50-60 laps on the car and check temps, leaks, etc. another 8 quarts and another 50-60 laps, by that time the motor starts to loosen up and the car actually gets faster (not by much if any of you are wondering), after that we throw in whatever we plan on using which is usually gibbs stuff for the course of the motors life before rebuild again.