Build or buy?

one.wicked.stang

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Ive reached the limits on the stock block. Im at the point its a gamble every time I get on it to possibly blow the motor.

This winter I plan on building a motor.

The only 2 things in/on the motor are hotrod cams and a Whipple HO kit (3.25 pulley). The Whipple will transfer over, the cams Im undecided on. Ive also got LTs, o/r H, 60# injectors, Ford Racing TB. Auto trans with TCI servos, hardened input shaft and PI 3500 stall. Those will swap over as well.

Im clueless on what rotating assembly kit or short block to get.

Motor is still good so I could pull and get it cleaned all up or just buy a complete short block.. I figure the cost to prep the block and install the kit if I go that route will probably be close to short block costs. This is why I am thinking of just buying a short block but from who??.

I search a few vendors here and read horror stories from all of them.

I want to turn the car into strictly a race car.

Ive even contemplated selling/trading my car outright and buying a fox body race car that someone else has built.

Buying a shortblock looks to be in the 4500 up range plus the cost of heads.

Im probably looking at 6-7k for everything?

Ive got a friend who races and he mentioned a month or so ago that this would be a hard decision to make because of costs and it is.

In the 1/8th Im very low 7s and in the 1/4 low 11s. Its fast, just not fast enough...

So, any thoughts? This is hard..

If I build whose a reputable builder/vendor to buy from?

298 stroker?

302? stroker?

If I decide to build will the car be faster or same times? Last thing I want to do is put that much money into it and be the same times. Granted the engine will be a hell of a lot stronger..

Sorry for the rambling on, and thanks for any input...
 

stkjock

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if you are going for a race only motor and big power (?) I think 4500 is low for a quality short block.

IMO look to L&M Engines for a build.

The issue currently with 3v builds is block availability, they are just not around, those that are are pricey $700-1000 used and $1500 new from Ford.

as to parts, really depends on your goals, once you determine the goal (ET/Power) then you can get a better handle on parts. Hell a top quality crank could be $3K+ alone.
 

Clipboard

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if you are going for a race only motor and big power (?) I think 4500 is low for a quality short block.

IMO look to L&M Engines for a build.

The issue currently with 3v builds is block availability, they are just not around, those that are are pricey $700-1000 used and $1500 new from Ford.

as to parts, really depends on your goals, once you determine the goal (ET/Power) then you can get a better handle on parts. Hell a top quality crank could be $3K+ alone.

Well put; for good opinions you need to give us a goal your trying to reach
 

gil_t2

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If you are serous about a race car only, You need to look at the cost and reliability. Winning is more important than quickness, there will always be somebody faster. Even though i have an 06, if i were to do it again i would i would go Fox body or put a push rod in the 06. If you have not lighten and installed roll bar and other related mods to the car , just go back to stock, and get a Fox. More fast for the money!
 

stkjock

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that would be a pricey swap once you add in the other parts needed to make it work IMO

\/ just one thing that jumps out
Vehicle harness and PCM not included.
 

one.wicked.stang

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Well to be honest. I would probably still want to drive it to the track that's close and would trailer it to further tracks or events. Im already border line on needing a cage. I may just go buy a fox body, wife is showing an interest in wanting to drive mine as it sits. She's ok with whatever choice I make. She did tell me that she would like mine if I buy another.. she's never gone down the track in it...yet. I'd like to be in the high 5s or low 6s on an 1/8 mile track in whatever choice I decide on.


Sent from a secure underground Government facility.
 

rayS197

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Id buy a built shortblock. Choices from Brenspeed, JDM or L&M engines. A friend just got his car back from Brenspeed with the B302 SB and Whipple. He Stated Brenspeed has cores and a B302's ready to ship. Brenspeed also offers B326 @ $5k and there is another option. Call, Jim Jr@ JDM and ask his pricing on their 302 stroker. JMO.

http://www.brenspeed.com/b326.html
 

retfr8flyr

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My advice would be to back the power down on yours, so you don't have to worry about it blowing and it is safer for your wife to drive. Then buy a Fox and build it up into a mainly track car. You would still have the great fun of your Mustang, keep your wife happy, have your race car and probably spend less money without the down time on your Mustang a build would have.


Earl
 

sharkbaits

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Give us a call. We've built countless 1000+rwhp 3v's and we can custom tailor an engine to your needs.
 

GB10

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Building your 3v will actually be about the same as building a sbf to handle the power to run in the 5s. You can use a stock block and heads for the 3v. You could get the heads ported and machine the block. On the sbf you would need an aftermarket block and aftermarket heads which adds cost, plus machine work for that aftermarket block. The foxbody will weigh less though and parts are relatively cheap.

If you decide to turn your s197 into a race car then have Wolfe Racecraft do the cage. I bought his 10pt cage kit and wleded it into my car and it fits nice and tight.

You wouldn't need to get too drastic with upper 5s in the 3v:
-race prepped cobra crank
-Manley I-beam rods(h-beams would work, but possibility of breaking a rod bolt with high rpm)
-stainless ring set
-good bearings
-ARP head studs, main studs, and side bolts
-TSS billet gear oil pump
-Manley, Diamond, CP, JE pistons (coated would be recommended)
-Good wrist pins with the pistons. All manufacturers offer upgraded pins
-Decent port job on the heads
-Pac nitrided valvesprings
-Manley, Modmax, or Ferrea stainless intake valves(stock exhaust valves are a super alloy already)
-2v metal timing chain tensioners

What about the transmission? Any plans or undecided?
 

hamish

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If it's just to race get a fox body.
It's been said already go fast for cheap.(relatively speaking ofcourse)
Unless ofcourse you already have all your supporting mods installed on your s197?
 

GB10

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On the trans I was thinking of beefing it up even more or possibly doing a swap to a 4r70w from:

http://www.lentechautomatics.com/aodhome.html

Any good shops in the DFW area to do the machine/build? Someone told me member "Sinner" knows a pretty good place.
If you want to pm me I could help you out.

4R70W would work if done right. TH400 would be much stronger, but no overdrive. I'd talk to Freddy Brown FBPerformace over Lentech, because Freddy is a good guy and he will talk with you directly for a while about your options. Plus, his transmissions seem to have no problems.
 

crownaviation

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On board with the Fox body idea. Keep your already fast s197 and buy a built fox. You are right about expensive to build. If you built a motor on your own then it will cost more than buying a built shortblock. The heads IMO on a 3v are all you will really need if FI.

So, $7-$10k you could probably find a really fast fox someone is dumping over winter. <<<That chunk of change won't get you a whole lot off your ET with having to build a 3v. $10k for your 3v build will not yield a 9 second car IMO.
 

one.wicked.stang

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Got a line on a Fox Body, looking at it this weekend hopefully. Not saying anything else because I don't want to jinx it...
 

dysan

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If you stick with the S197, I would not even bother stroking it since speed isn't the important thing in racing as others have said, it's consistency & longevity unless you are racing heads up. If that's the case, costs will be crazy because the person with the most money usually wins in heads up.

If I were to start over knowing what I do now I would have done a stock stroke, stock bore build, good crank, rods & pistons, ported heads, compression will depend on the fuel you are planning to run(I'm on E85 now and my new pistons will be 10.3:1 compression), lighten the crap out of the car, spool, 33 or 35 gun drilled axles, and the trans depends on what you want(I would do my 4R70W with manual valve body again due to it's streetability).
 

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