Can valve cover be remove with hurst line lock installed?

[BlindGUYnAR]

Title pretty much says it. 08 GT 4.6.

I bought a set of cams and need to know if I'll need to remove the line lock in the process. The solenoid sets really close to the side and rear of the driver side cover. Only a 1/4 in or so room on the side and about the same to the rear of the cover.

If the cover will slide forward approx 3/8 or 1/2 during removal the solenoid should clear the back of the cover.

Hoping someone has done cams and had the kit installed and can tell me if they had to remove it to get the cover off.

Took me forever to pull air from the system when I installed it. One of the toughest bleed jobs I've ever done. Strangely enough I had to bleed fronts first as I could ever get the air to pull out the back until I got the bulk of the air out the front. Then did rears and redid fronts. Maybe this time I can pull a vac on the brake fluid reservoir like I did to bleed the clutch?

Would really love to avoid that job if I can. I've heard the VCT solenoid can be easily broken by twisting the covers as they come off.

Anyway if someone knows it would help me better plan one day or two for the cam install. Yeah yeah I work slow. Give me a break I'm nearly freaking blind!

Here is a photo of it. I trimmed it a bit during the install to gain room on the bottom corner which is why it's rounded a bIt.

 

[702GT]

I don't see the needed clearance. It's the back of the cam that's gonna screw you, not the solenoid. The back cam tower sits ridiculously close to the back cover. There's not a lot of wiggle room in any direction regardless of solenoid, even if the solenoid wasn't in the way. The cover needs to be lifted at least a good 2 inches before you get wiggle room. That line lock has you blocked in.

This is all based on the one picture though. It's always worth trying, if you can't get it, it's not a big deal to stop and remove the line lock... although this is a Ford, it could get complicated in a hurry. lol.

 

[Wild White Pony]

I can say from experience pulling the valve covers off dozens of times with a blower in the way, disconnect as much of the wiring harness as needed, you want to be able to flop the harness above and below the valve cover.
Remove the bolt that secures the oil dipstick to the engine, pull up on the valve cover at the back first so you can get your fingers underneath to break the 2 drops of silicone seal in the front.
Pull straight up as possible in the front so you don't put any sideways pressure on the VCT solenoid. I don't think they are that easy to break but you can ruin the solenoid seal, I would get a new set anyway and replace since the tend to leak when they get old. Remember to check your solenoid seal type, smaller center version or larger offset pending on your valve cover. You can purchase the seals from Freedom Racing Tools.

 

[BlindGUYnAR]

And the answer is ... Yes the valve cover can be removed.

Lift in the front and rotate rear as you pull up and it popped right out.

Now torquing the rear lower cap bolt was not easy and the lower rear valve cover bolt was hard because that solenoid made the already bad access worse. I also had to leave the roller follower for the exhaust in place on that cylinder as I couldn't get a spring compresser in there.

those were small prices to pay to not having pto mess with the line lock. So the blind guy got his cams in! Not something I'd choose to do often, but once wasn't too bad.