Clutch job from hell... Help!

beatswellington

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Hi guys, my 2005 Mustang GT is currently in the shop for a clutch replacement and, according to my mechanic, is the car from hell. Stock engine and transmission, 126,000 miles. As it sits right now, we replaced the clutch, flywheel, pilot bearing, rear main seal, braided clutch line, tried two slave cylinders, clutch master cylinder, and the transmission has been out 3 times.

The issue is that the car doesn't want to go into gear when it is sitting on the ground and running. When the car is off, the transmission goes into gears perfectly fine. When the car is turned on and in the air, it shifts a little easier. There were no issues driving it to the shop, the clutch was pretty cooked but still worked fine and the transmission had no shifting issues. According to my mechanic, the system is 1000% bled.

Here's the parts list:

(off Facebook marketplace for reference)
Exedy Mach 400 Stage 1 Clutch
McLeod lightened steel flywheel
Exedy Slave Cylinder (replaced with equivalent slave for testing)
Braided clutch line
Flywheel and pressure plate bolts
OEM Ford pilot bearing

The clutch feel and travel seem to be doing what it needs to be doing. The clutch is being depressed, and the pressure plate is being pushed in. It seems as if the clutch isn't travelling far enough to dis-engage from the engine. Here's what we troubleshooted so far:

1) Took out and bench bled Exedy slave cylinder after installation and metal bits came out, replaced slave cylinder, bench bled, and installed. Did not fix issue
2) Called Exedy and McLeod to verify that their parts could work in this combination and they verified that everything should work if it's within OEM spec.
3) Ordered replacement Exedy Mach 400 clutch and Exedy lightweight racing flywheel to compare widths and clutch travel. Everything looked the same within 1/16th of an inch or so, Facebook parts don't seem to be the issue.
3) Suspected internal failure of the clutch master cylinder which might not be allowing enough pressure to fully disengage the clutch. Replaced clutch master cylinder and bled system, did not solve issue.

We're out of ideas. Only other thing we can think of is that something happened to the transmission when it was pulled off the car, since it was so corroded. We discussed shimming the slave cylinder and my mechanic has never had to do that after hundreds of clutch jobs. My mechanic has triple checked his work at this point and as far as the clutch job goes, it was done right.

My options are to A) Put in a brand new Exedy Mach 400 clutch (instead of Facebook part) in and see if that fixes it, although there's definitely a risk it won't. B) Put an OEM clutch in just to see if it works vs the performance parts. C) Take the car to a different shop that can more accurately diagnose the issue, because at this point we're just throwing parts at it.

Any help is appreciated, thanks!
 
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stkjock

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did they bleed the system properly after install?

did they shim the slave?
 

Midlife Crises

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What you describe is not uncommon. I would bet the slave cylinder needs a shim added where it mounts to the transmission. There is a procedure for checking the throw out engagement that will determine if a spacer is needed. I have my slave cylinder shimmed to push the throw out bearing back about an inch and it works perfectly.
 

Juice

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Yup, throwout bearing preload/shimming. Especially with aftermarket clutches.
Shameless plug - Never had an issue with Centerforce clutches.
 

beatswellington

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Thanks guys, I do have a suspicion the slave needs a shim. Does anyone have a link to the procedure for checking this? Also I couldn't find any info on where to purchase a shim. Or is it something a machinist would need to fabricate?
 

Juice

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Flat bar across bell housing.
Measure depth of slave bearing.
Sorry, dont know the spec.
 

1950StangJump$

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These responses are interesting to me; I've had clutches done on both the 3650 and the Magnum XLs, and no one had ever had to shim it. Used the Ford throw out bearings and multiple aftermarket clutch manufacturers. Single and twin discs.

Not saying you guys are wrong, just not anything I've experienced.
 

Juice

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These responses are interesting to me; I've had clutches done on both the 3650 and the Magnum XLs, and no one had ever had to shim it. Used the Ford throw out bearings and multiple aftermarket clutch manufacturers. Single and twin discs.

Not saying you guys are wrong, just not anything I've experienced.
My magnum xl came with a shim. And it was exactly the right thickness.
 

1950StangJump$

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My magnum xl came with a shim. And it was exactly the right thickness.

Hmmm. My current Magnum was originally installed in 2018 by JPC with an RST clutch, and I don't *think* a shim was used.

When I did the engine swap, I moved up to an RXT, and I didn't notice any shim. The transmission shifts great.
 

Juice

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Hmmm. My current Magnum was originally installed in 2018 by JPC with an RST clutch, and I don't *think* a shim was used.

When I did the engine swap, I moved up to an RXT, and I didn't notice any shim. The transmission shifts great.
Shim "may be" needed. But you should measure the depth to determine.
 

1950StangJump$

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Yea . . . just confirmed with the guy who helped me install it this last time. He said he measured and no shim was needed. I didn't even realize . . .
 

Iceman62

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OP; When you say "shop" do you mean reputable repair shop, or buddy's back-yard garage? I'd go w/ option A (new clutch)...pitch the old $hit.
 

Doug Huggard

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Your car should have a spacer plate between the bell housing and engine block. It would have been removed to replace your rear main seal. Maybe make sure that spacer plate was put back in
 

eighty6gt

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The slave should be pre-loaded correctly.
-Measure from the block/trans mounting surface to the tips of the "finger springs" on the pressure plate.
-Measure from the mounting surface on the bell housing to the "face" of the slave.
-You're going to need to account for the thickness of the "bell housing spacer/plate" into one of the above measurements. Or just put in on the block and do the first measurement with it already on there.
-Take your two measurements and see how much pre-load is being placed on the slave when the trans is bolted up. You want about one inch.
-Shim for goal
Depending on a lot of things I have run shims anywhere from 1/8-1/2" to get things right.

I believe DOB originally posted this. I have a 3/8 shim, IIRC.
 

beatswellington

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The slave should be pre-loaded correctly.
-Measure from the block/trans mounting surface to the tips of the "finger springs" on the pressure plate.
-Measure from the mounting surface on the bell housing to the "face" of the slave.
-You're going to need to account for the thickness of the "bell housing spacer/plate" into one of the above measurements. Or just put in on the block and do the first measurement with it already on there.
-Take your two measurements and see how much pre-load is being placed on the slave when the trans is bolted up. You want about one inch.
-Shim for goal
Depending on a lot of things I have run shims anywhere from 1/8-1/2" to get things right.

I believe DOB originally posted this. I have a 3/8 shim, IIRC.

Thank you for the step by step! I'll be sure to pass this on to the next mechanic, i think we'll try proper bleeding procedure and then pulling everything apart again and shimming as a last resort
 

Mach2burnout

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My factory slave was shimmed from the factory. When I changed it out I put the shin back as it was. No problems.

Also, how was the system bled? By pumping method or vacuum from the top?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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