Clutch ..time for a change ?

[Midlife Crises]

It’s going to work just fine. Fill it with fluid, pump the hell out of the peddle until it feels good and take it for a ride.

 

[brasil]

@ Midlife Crises

I am sorry that I am asking so much about the "clutch theme "... but I never ever had such a complicated clutch exchange in my whole life.
And because I have to live in Germany...access for spare parts is very difficult, and when I blow up a TOB for example...I have to place a order in the US ( Summit / RA /Tasca... ) the US prices are o.k. for me - but shipping and customs are a big amount of money.

So I have to be very careful, while handling with those "golden parts "

Greetings from Germany to the Last Frontier

Jurgen

 

[Midlife Crises]

@ Midlife Crises

I am sorry that I am asking so much about the "clutch theme "... but I never ever had such a complicated clutch exchange in my whole life.
And because I have to live in Germany...access for spare parts is very difficult, and when I blow up a TOB for example...I have to place a order in the US ( Summit / RA /Tasca... ) the US prices are o.k. for me - but shipping and customs are a big amount of money.

So I have to be very careful, while handling with those "golden parts "

Greetings from Germany to the Last Frontier

Jurgen

I understand your caution. Everybody here wants you to be successful.

 

[brasil]

... finished my work for today. Because of the "overthrow risk " of the PP, because I use the GT 500 master cylinder , I reduced the clutch pedal travel from 2.5 inches to 1.84 inches
Used a rubber piece that normal sits under the hood , to prevent a "hard landig " while slamming the hood..
Took out the little white plastic bumper that sits in the pedal assy..and found out that a 8mm screw works perfect as a self tread tool. So with the 8mm tread , I could use the rubber bumper, right athe same location where the OEM bumper was located.

Had to enlarge the clutch switch , this can be done by pulling out the little grey stick ..

Started the engine..( DS was not installed at this time ) and pushed the clutch pedal..no strange sound... then I went into 1st gear. no grind sound ..same for the reverse gear.

So tomorrow I will call a buddy of mine to have a look at the rear wheels.. while the rear end /axle is on jackstands, and then I know when the clutch is engaging ..

btw....bleeding of the clutch system was a breeze took less than5 minutes, until I had full pressure from the very top ..or perhaps 3-5 mm less..


here are some pics from the "pedal travel reducer"..

 

[brasil]

for the records.. files... THERE IS NO NEED for a Pedal Travel limiter . The clutch pedal needs -even with a gt500 clutch master cylinder the full OEM travel..

With the limiter, the clutch engages so close to the floor... that you can not "fine tune " the engagement properly.

So I removed the limiter..went for a second test ride...much better ! Shifting in all gears is very smooth - close to perfect. Only when I need to stay on the clutch while backing -up for example ..the clutch "chatters a little bit..But I hope that it will getting better after the break in.

 

[whitmanink]

If it’s any help at all. This is the spacer I used when I installed a T56 mag. XL and a McMeod twin disc. Notice the spacer is flanged to center itself on the transmission and the throwout unit centers itself as well. When it’s all bolted up (using longer bolts) you can’t even tell it’s there.

View attachment 117393

View attachment 117394

you got such a legit setup my dude

 

[GlassTop09]

for the records.. files... THERE IS NO NEED for a Pedal Travel limiter . The clutch pedal needs -even with a gt500 clutch master cylinder the full OEM travel..

With the limiter, the clutch engages so close to the floor... that you can not "fine tune " the engagement properly.

So I removed the limiter..went for a second test ride...much better ! Shifting in all gears is very smooth - close to perfect. Only when I need to stay on the clutch while backing -up for example ..the clutch "chatters a little bit..But I hope that it will getting better after the break in.

Hey brasil,

Just to inform you on Exedy non-OEM clutch\PP systems if not already known.........Exedy designs these packages on purpose to provide a low pedal engagement\disengagement (most racers prefer this to a higher engagement like OEMs usually are......) thus why they show to engage\disengage within 3"-4" off the floor. I have a full Exedy Mach 500 Stage 3 Grooved PP clutch setup (CM flywheel, organic sprung clutch disc & 522 lbs\ft clamp load PP) installed that came w\ the paperwork that states this & follows it to the tee.

IMHO I don't understand why Exedy doesn't provide TOB shims for these setups, but I like what you've done w\ yours (turning the .500" self-centering shim down to .355" to hit around the .750"-.875" TOB preload range.....) thus I'll plan to duplicate your work when it comes time to replace my setup (been in service for 9 yrs to date......still working OK but time is counting down..........clutch just barely disengages fully when pedal is put to floor but synchros\slider teeth are also a little tired\worn as well which don't help either......also using a 13-14 GT500 clutch MS w\ FR Boss 302R\FR500S 5\16" SS solid clutch line......) as I had this setup installed at my local Ford dealership (wasn't equipped to do this myself at home at the time.......am now......) & I know for sure that they didn't shim it..........Exedy claims that their setups don't need them..........but from my observations I think they would be better if they were shimmed somewhat & this .750"-.875" TOB preload range should be perfect for Exedy clutch systems IMHO (from your results & others results I've read\seen that used Exedy clutch systems this TOB preload range seems to hold true.......working TOB shim thickness seems to range from .312" to .355" w\ Exedy clutch systems......).

Good job!