Comp cams low dyno numbers and check engine light

[whitmanink]

If you paid with AMEX you can do a charge back and the merchant has to deal with the card company.

I still think you should take it back and document how things have transpired…

now i see why no1 excepts amex

 

[JC SSP]

I have had to do this a few times in the last 20 years and it’s alway as a last result. CYA when paying for something that turns out not as advertised or unsatisfactory. You would have to be an idiot and moron to accept anything else!

The 3% they charge the merchant for transactions is the real reason no likes to take AMEX.

Also It’s a charge card not a credit card too. So those that live paycheck to paycheck rarely can pay at the end of the billing cycle. There is no revolving charge with interest accruing.

 

[Badd GT]

I thought you did those dyno runs (apart from run #3) with the smaller 127400 cams. Do you have the corrected numbers by any chance? The last run after you installed CNC ported heads was particularly impressive.
I'm contemplating about whether to swap cams in the future and I have my eye on the 127400 SPR stage 1.

The 500’s and 400’s dynos were for all purpose identicle. The power band on the 500’s was 500 rpm to the right. Personally I liked the drive ability of the 400’s better and for street use felt the power band more useable than the 500’s

 

[GlassTop09]

I just checked the sensors and wiring. Both sensors are working and the issue is isolated to the drivers side. I couldn’t see any issues with the wiring and connections either. I’m debating if I want to take the drivers side valve cover off to see if the timing marks line up. Then I can tell the shop without a doubt the timing is off…

You can try that but good luck trying to see that w\o removing the front timing cover........to properly determine that visually, you'd need to also see the crankshaft timing sprocket's timing mark as well. You could keep turning the engine around until the colored chain marker link "realigns" back to the "L" phaser timing mark on B2........but if the cam timing was actually missed at the crankshaft sprocket timing mark instead of at the phaser, you'd never know that w\ the front timing cover still installed........

You know the old adage about assuming...............?

Tis why I typed to use Forscan or Torque app (or someone who has access to Ford's IDS or any OE-class scan tool, or any of the tuning softwares, ie, SCT or HP Tuners) to read thru the PCM to determine if physical cam timing is good or not......easiest\accurate way to do this w\o disassembly of engine.

Or you can take it back to the shop who did this work & have them prove their own cam timing work is correct, or fix it on their dime. I would also insist to shop owner that you witness when they use their tuning software to check it. This can be done in the parking lot in approx 10 minutes..............ain't gotta be on the dyno..........

IMHO, either way I'd get it retuned somewhere else.

My 2 cents more..................

Hope this helps.

 

[MrBhp]

I'm wondering what gear you have. I'm guessing you realize that the large tube headers and the cams are going to need something like a 4.10 out back. Otherwise, regardless of your tune, things are going to feel like Sunday morning after a Saturday night of eating nothing but cheese.

 

[Candy10]

Are there any updates with this?

 

[Jake Schmale]

Are there any updates with this?

The shop just now got back to me after several emails and phone calls saying they were looking into the issue. They want me to bring it my sct x4 so they can download a different tune and want me to flash it into my car. Keep in mind this is after paying $600 for a custom dyno tune to a shop that specializes in mustangs. This is getting absurd and I’m about to file a charge back on my Amex card to get my money back.

 

[JC SSP]

Go get the tune and see if it improves. If not, then charge back on Amex card and find another shop.

 

[Candy10]

The shop just now got back to me after several emails and phone calls saying they were looking into the issue. They want me to bring it my sct x4 so they can download a different tune and want me to flash it into my car. Keep in mind this is after paying $600 for a custom dyno tune to a shop that specializes in mustangs. This is getting absurd and I’m about to file a charge back on my Amex card to get my money back.

So they don’t even want to see the car? Bro, you are infinitely more patient than me. Hope the tune works for you

 

[Jake Schmale]

Here’s an update I brought the car back to the shop and they’re saying the timing is good and the cps is good. They told me the pcm isn’t reading the cps sensor and that the ecu is bad or the alternator may be bad. Does this make any sense? And could any of that affect how the cars runs/power.

 

[Jake Schmale]

I’d also like to add I don’t know how they verified the timing but they said the timing was ok and that the p0345 and p0349 don’t have anything to do with being timing related. They also brought up that my newer NGK o2 sensors were throwing slow to respond codes which wasn’t there before when I was tuned by lito(he’s the one who recommended those sensors with my headers).

 

[JC SSP]

I do find it strange that the alternator and/or ECM took a dump right after the install...

An alternator will throw all sorts of erratic codes and cause poor performance... I had a bad one that would show good at your local AutoZone tester, but when I took it my "battery guy" he showed me on the scope that it had a bad diode. I replaced it with a new 200AMP High Output Alternator with 4-gauge power wire with in-line 250AMP fuse and have never had another issue.

On the O2, I always use Mororcraft, but NGK makes good stuff, so not sure what the issue is.

 

[XJCasper]

My son had an issue with my ol' Cherokee. Acted like bad O2s or TPS. We had previously had issues with both and had the same symptoms. Finally took it to a mechanic after replacing everything you can think of. Mechanic could not come up with the issue. my son then found a cheap engine and transplanted it. No luck. His boss got a new alternator tester and hooked it up. Bad diode in the alternator.

I also like NGK. But halve only used their parts in my imports.

 

[Candy10]

Quite honestly, if I were in your position I’d take the car to another shop and start from scratch, as far as checking the timing and the tune. The original shop obviously isn’t willing to help (unless you buy more shit probably), just take your money elsewhere and get it looked over

 

[06monera96]

Almost sounds like you got a bad alternator throwing off the cam sensors and doing the nasty with the timing.
datalog how much timing you seeing the top end of the pull maybe the car just pulling back timing
Is there a dyno graph?