Considering a 5.4 build/swap please advise

Natural1

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Yeah but the aluminum block doesn't have Siamese bores like a BOSS block and a 3.700" dry sleeved aluminum block (yes even the teksid) is not nearly as strong. Also, I provided the reasoning for the expense of the pistons, they were the L&M piston. Some companies have a "proprietary" piston through their shop. L&M, MMR and several others have their own piston lines from popular manufacturers.
 

06Mach

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Alright, I decided that unless the 5.0 becomes a feasible swap in the next few years, that I'm going to green light the 5.4 swap.

So let me start on my parts list, again please advise.

Since I'm going with the iron block, I'm going to get me some new suspension up front to try and offset a little.

Tubular K member
Tubular A arms
Tubular Radiator support.
New motor mounts that drop it a lil.
And depending how this summer goes here, AC delete.
I just use the fan, not the ac, so I think I can live.

Next
used 3v 5.4 2008 is the best year to grab right?
JPC intake
reuse my GT throttle body
Reuse my JLT CAI

I'm guessing I'm going to have to go with shorties?
So I need to know which fit best.
Off road h pipe.

Keeping the 5r55 so I just need to flip and reverse my crossmember.

I'll have to see what bolt pattern my flexplate is, but I may upgrade anyway.


Now I believe that is the full list I'd need for the swap.

Now my question is, will 4.10s be too much gear for the 5.4?
I know on the 2v many said 3.55s were perfect, then again, that was with a manual, so perhaps 3.73s with the 5r55?

Also when I get the new motor, I should be able to sell my 4.6 for a reasonable price to facilitate purchase of that intake.

But from there everything should just drop right in?

I am a little concerned about how much I can rev it.
I've read conflicting stories on F150 forums.
Some say the lower redline is due to the trucks drivetrain.
Some say rods go boom at 6k.

So knowing for sure will allow me to know if I should just get a block and have my internals worked on.
As I want to use a vortech blower as well.


Like I said, I'm putting money back for this, since good motors on ebay are fairly pricey.
 
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gil_t2

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Alright, I decided that unless the 5.0 becomes a feasible swap in the next few years, that I'm going to green light the 5.4 swap.

So let me start on my parts list, again please advise.

Since I'm going with the iron block, I'm going to get me some new suspension up front to try and offset a little.

Tubular K member
Tubular A arms
Tubular Radiator support.
New motor mounts that drop it a lil.
And depending how this summer goes here, AC delete.
I just use the fan, not the ac, so I think I can live.

Next
used 3v 5.4 2008 is the best year to grab right?
JPC intake
reuse my GT throttle body use a gt500 TB
Reuse my JLT CAI

I'm guessing I'm going to have to go with shorties? use tune lenght, not equal , that will give more room
So I need to know which fit best.
Off road h pipe.

Keeping the 5r55 so I just need to flip and reverse my crossmember.

I'll have to see what bolt pattern my flexplate is, but I may upgrade anyway.you need an 8 bolt flex plate


Now I believe that is the full list I'd need for the swap.

Now my question is, will 4.10s be too much gear for the 5.4? 4.10's manual
I know on the 2v many said 3.55s were perfect, then again, that was with a manual, so perhaps 3.73s with the 5r55? yes for auto

Also when I get the new motor, I should be able to sell my 4.6 for a reasonable price to facilitate purchase of that intake.

But from there everything should just drop right in?

I am a little concerned about how much I can rev it. that depends on your cam
I've read conflicting stories on F150 forums.
Some say the lower redline is due to the trucks drivetrain.
Some say rods go boom at 6k.

So knowing for sure will allow me to know if I should just get a block and have my internals worked on.
As I want to use a vortech blower as well.


Like I said, I'm putting money back for this, since good motors on ebay are fairly pricey.

I would replace the rods, the rest should be ok if low miles on block
 

ford20

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Are you sure JPC makes a 5.4 intake? If you have to use a stock 5.4 n/a intake it uses a different tb which will also require a different cai.

I think spyder got a unit that wasn't completed. I know he had one and than welded the runners on to fit or something like that. I am sure there are more details about it in his build thread.
 

gil_t2

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JPC does not stock the 5.4 manifold, but they will make one for you. I ask them a couple months ago.
 

06Mach

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The reason I said my JLT, was I was planning to just run my stocker.
And 3.73s for my auto then?
Sounds workable.


Now when we are talking about revving, I'm only wanting normal operating range, ie idle to 6k.
I know stock cams fall on their faces around 5400 or so. But if I blow it, I'm really not too concerned as the torque would be amazing.

So about rods...
Would that be necessary? Or was that indeed just the limits of the trucks torque converter?

As for the intake, since I'm in no hurry for this, I'm gonna keep looking...
 
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06Mach

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Another thought for the intake....
If I save even longer, I could just whipple it...that would solve my intake issue.
 

06Mach

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Alright so I need a low mileaged engine, rods, and I should be fine, if I wanted to keep it NA for a while right?
 

06Mach

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My only concern is these cam phaser issues I keep reading about...it's a bit of a turnoff.

But like I said, unless the 5.0 becomes this simple of a swap, then I'm saving for a 2010 5.4
Apparently the phaser issue is less in those.
 

zuritausmc

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The header for a 4.6 will fit, you need to use the 1" lower motor mounts, Intake manifolds are expensive, JPC is $1,700. quote I got from them back in August. There is a company that makes an adapter to use stock 4.6 manifold $385. looks like CM plates. I am building one using Alu block, It will take awile , but I am willing to pay the extra 1,000. over the BB 4.6

Is this only the stock exhaust manifolds or do long tubes fit with the lower motor mounts
 

06Mach

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I had saw that and wondered myself.

Because I was told I needed to lower it anyway to get my tranny to line up. But if I could squeeze some LTs in there, then I could transfer those too.
 

BruceH

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Alright so I need a low mileaged engine, rods, and I should be fine, if I wanted to keep it NA for a while right?

The whole rotating assembly will have to be pulled and rebalanced when you change the rods. This will also mean cylinder hone, bearings, main bolts or studs, and new rings. As long as you are doing all that get forged pistons too.

I noticed you have gone from wanting a 5.4 3v na to a blown 5.4. It's going to cost you some money. Here comes the voice of reason: Just buy a FRPP Whipple kit for your current motor. Run the FRPP tune and be done with it. You will make more hp and tq than the 5.4 na, won't have to change much, and if you decide to crank the power up it's fairly easy to do.
 

06Mach

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Yeah, the reason I had changed that, was if I was going to do it, I would do it big.

my only hesitation about blowing my 4.6 is mileage.

If I had a new block, I'd blow it in a heartbeat. Run it til the damn tires fell off.

But with 70K approaching as a daily....I'm very hesitant.

I don't know how long these can last.

I know that most cabs run 2vs and they have well over 250K on most, and run fine.....but I fear new things...that's why I was just going with bolt ons.

If I did blow a 4.6 I'd just want about 400. Something reliable.

I just don't want to have to worry about my motor every 100K
 

BruceH

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Yeah, the reason I had changed that, was if I was going to do it, I would do it big.

my only hesitation about blowing my 4.6 is mileage.

If I had a new block, I'd blow it in a heartbeat. Run it til the damn tires fell off.

But with 70K approaching as a daily....I'm very hesitant.

I don't know how long these can last.

I know that most cabs run 2vs and they have well over 250K on most, and run fine.....but I fear new things...that's why I was just going with bolt ons.

If I did blow a 4.6 I'd just want about 400. Something reliable.

I just don't want to have to worry about my motor every 100K

That's something most people don't think about. If they do think about it they don't talk about it anyway.

I've already decided if my motor makes 50k it will get pulled and have new bearings installed at a minimum. I'm already collecting parts for a quick swap out short block to minimize down time. Have a block, crank, and pistons. Just waiting for a deal to pop up on rods and rings. Based on my past history it will be pulled sooner than that anyway, lol.
 

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