Did your drivability improve when you replaced your alternator??

[06Torch]

I would get the "cam positioning sensor" code, I'd replace it, and in a few months it would come on again. Also, the car was becoming more and more unpleasant to drive. I would put in the clutch, put it in gear, and pull out the clutch and the car would either buck forward or the rpms would drop to the point where the car sounded like it was going to turn off. I had to baby the Hell out of it.

So, last Friday the battery gave out. I had the alt checked and it was bad. Instead of paying the stealership $375 for the Motorcraft brand, I decided to pay another $3 and buy a PA Performance from Late Mod Resto.

I finally had time to install it yesterday and the car runs great! No more bucking forward or near dead stops. I'm pretty happy with it and the difference is so great that I'm having to re-learn the subtleties of shifting again.

Just thought I'd share because I would have done this a long time ago had I known the alt could affect drivability so much.


Gerardo

 

[mfergel]

Well, my old alternator seemed to work fine some days. I didn't have bucking but I did notice a difference. I've got the PA alternator as well now. The first day I put it in my car actually stalled at one point. Not sure what was going on but it's been fine for a number of months now.

 

[saleen07gt]

When you have an alternator that is making excessive ripple, it can bleed into the cam position sensor and freak the PCM out, we see it on an oscilloscope all the time.

 

[UltraKla$$ic]

When you have an alternator that is making excessive ripple, it can bleed into the cam position sensor and freak the PCM out, we see it on an oscilloscope all the time.

this^^^

 

[YoungPony]

For someone without a sound system is there any reason to get the 200amp PA alternator instead of the 130amp?

 

[ChrisGT]

Well, my old alternator seemed to work fine some days. I didn't have bucking but I did notice a difference. I've got the PA alternator as well now. The first day I put it in my car actually stalled at one point. Not sure what was going on but it's been fine for a number of months now.

This is interesting. Have you tried to re-load a tune since you put the alternator in?

I put a PA performance alternator in last year. Ever since then, when I unhook the battery or retune the car, the idle suffers tremendously. I actually had the car completely stall this last time I retuned it. I follow the manual's instructions for the idle/fuel trim re-learn and it doesn't seem to matter. It gets better after a few days of driving, but I just can't figure out why it has been doing this. Perhaps it's related to the alternator then?

 

[06Torch]

Alt

For someone without a sound system is there any reason to get the 200amp PA alternator instead of the 130amp?

Yes, there is a $3 difference between it and the one from Ford. Also, Everything I read about a cam positioning sensor points to buying a new alternator. So, when it came time to buy a new one, I said why not.​

Hey, if a lot of us don't auto cross, why would we run performance springs and struts or softer tires? Or, if we don't drag race, why would we want another 100 hp and so on...

I daily drive my Stang and I guess a case could be made against driving a V8 to work everyday since a 4 cylinder is more economincal too. LOL!​

Like said, I'm very happy with the results and if I do get a better sound system one day, that's just another part I don't have to buy.​

The car doesn't have an aftermarket tune.​

Gerardo​

 

[Department Of Boost]

I had a huge drivability improvement when I switched to a 200A 4G alternator (they are custom).

The PA performance 200A 6G alternators are certainly a better option than the Motorcraft 135A 6G alternator. The only problem is that no matter who makes it (Motorcraft, reman, PA, etc) the 6G alternator is a flawed design. It has nothing to do with the quality of the build, the basic design is flawed. The 6G does not hold up well to being spun and they come apart internally. Basically they are a crap shoot. Some last forever, some don’t last 5min. There is a reason that Ford no longer uses them, too many problems.

The best replacement options are a custom made 4G 200A alternator if you need the juice. Or a 135A Denso (what Ford switched to in 2010) conversion (they don’t just plug in) if 200A is not needed.

As far as amperage needs if you are running multiple fuel pumps, intercooler water pump, extra fans, electric engine water pump, etc. or a lot of stereo the 200A units are the only way to go.

And you better have a good battery to go with it. You can have a 1000A alternator but if the battery isn’t getting the job done you will still have charging/electrical issues.

We just switched over to the Interstate MT7-34 battery. These bad boys are the real deal. One of these coupled with a 200A alternator and the correct size cabling/grounds will handle any electrical “problems” you can throw at it.

http://www.interstatebatteries.com/...Battery+++48+Month+Free+Replacement+++800+CCA

 

[06Torch]

Ok, this may be what I get for talking shit (above). LOL!

The alt is performing like a champ. Zero issues. However, I think I'm BBQing wires. Was I suppose to upgrade some wires or something?? It's the only mod I've made in months so it's the only thing I can think of. I started smelling them cook last night. It was somewhat late so, I didn't want to take apart anything to investigate. I have a Shaker hood thing going so I have to move a few things to access it. I drove it in to work this morning and the smell is back. I'm getting worried of an electrical fire or burning out some computer something or other. So, what's the verdict?
Thanks all,


Gerardo

 

[Department Of Boost]

Ok, this may be what I get for talking shit (above). LOL!

The alt is performing like a champ. Zero issues. However, I think I'm BBQing wires. Was I suppose to upgrade some wires or something?? It's the only mod I've made in months so it's the only thing I can think of. I started smelling them cook last night. It was somewhat late so, I didn't want to take apart anything to investigate. I have a Shaker hood thing going so I have to move a few things to access it. I drove it in to work this morning and the smell is back. I'm getting worried of an electrical fire or burning out some computer something or other. So, what's the verdict?
Thanks all,


Gerardo

A 200A alternator should have 2ga cables/grounds.

You may be slowly melting the fuseable link in your alternators main power wire.

 

[06Torch]

A 200A alternator should have 2ga cables/grounds.

You may be slowly melting the fuseable link in your alternators main power wire.

This is what PA Performance is recommending.

http://www.paperformance.com/scripts/prodView.asp?idproduct=89

Looks like it's a 4 gage though. Is this going to be enough?
Thanks,


Gerardo

 

[Department Of Boost]

This is what PA Performance is recommending.

http://www.paperformance.com/scripts/prodView.asp?idproduct=89

Looks like it's a 4 gage though. Is this going to be enough?
Thanks,


Gerardo

If you read the thing from PA they actually reccomend using their 4ga wire in addition too the stock one. The 4ga upgrade in parallel with the stock 4ga wire will do a good imitation of a 2ga wire.

I did a LOT of research on what wire gauge/fuse size to use with a 200a alternator before I put mine on my 2007. Everywhere I checked, including a Ford electronics engineer said to go with a 2ga wire and a 250a fuse. It was a little bit of work but I am running 2ga welding cable that I soldered ring terminals on and a Mega Fuse 250a fuse.
http://www.newark.com/jsp/search/pr...53&CMP=KNC-GPLA&mckv=|pcrid|27090074901|plid|


I think its a real good idea to run the correct size cable. With all the stuff we have running on these cars you want any advantage you can gain. Granted I have a rediculious ammount of electrical stuff running (three 55gpm water pumps, three 255lph fuel pumps and 4 fans), but my 200a alternator is not terribly happy about running everything at idle. Were about to put a smaller alternator pulley on to speed it up a bit and raise the idle speed to 1000rpm. Running "small" cable doesn't help out at all.

 

[Saleen304]

I had a huge drivability improvement when I switched to a 200A 4G alternator (they are custom).

The PA performance 200A 6G alternators are certainly a better option than the Motorcraft 135A 6G alternator. The only problem is that no matter who makes it (Motorcraft, reman, PA, etc) the 6G alternator is a flawed design. It has nothing to do with the quality of the build, the basic design is flawed. The 6G does not hold up well to being spun and they come apart internally. Basically they are a crap shoot. Some last forever, some don’t last 5min. There is a reason that Ford no longer uses them, too many problems.

The best replacement options are a custom made 4G 200A alternator if you need the juice. Or a 135A Denso (what Ford switched to in 2010) conversion (they don’t just plug in) if 200A is not needed.

As far as amperage needs if you are running multiple fuel pumps, intercooler water pump, extra fans, electric engine water pump, etc. or a lot of stereo the 200A units are the only way to go.

And you better have a good battery to go with it. You can have a 1000A alternator but if the battery isn’t getting the job done you will still have charging/electrical issues.

We just switched over to the Interstate MT7-34 battery. These bad boys are the real deal. One of these coupled with a 200A alternator and the correct size cabling/grounds will handle any electrical “problems” you can throw at it.

http://www.interstatebatteries.com/...Battery+++48+Month+Free+Replacement+++800+CCA

Sent you a PM about getting one of those custom 4G 200 amp alternators.

 

[06Torch]

If you read the thing from PA they actually reccomend using their 4ga wire in addition too the stock one. The 4ga upgrade in parallel with the stock 4ga wire will do a good imitation of a 2ga wire.

I did a LOT of research on what wire gauge/fuse size to use with a 200a alternator before I put mine on my 2007. Everywhere I checked, including a Ford electronics engineer said to go with a 2ga wire and a 250a fuse. It was a little bit of work but I am running 2ga welding cable that I soldered ring terminals on and a Mega Fuse 250a fuse.
http://www.newark.com/jsp/search/pr...53&CMP=KNC-GPLA&mckv=|pcrid|27090074901|plid|


I think its a real good idea to run the correct size cable. With all the stuff we have running on these cars you want any advantage you can gain. Granted I have a rediculious ammount of electrical stuff running (three 55gpm water pumps, three 255lph fuel pumps and 4 fans), but my 200a alternator is not terribly happy about running everything at idle. Were about to put a smaller alternator pulley on to speed it up a bit and raise the idle speed to 1000rpm. Running "small" cable doesn't help out at all.

I ordered the cable and the Stang is down in the meantime. I told the tech guy at PA Performance that the car smelled like a wire or plastic part was cooking. He didn't think it was the Alt cable and suggested I look elsewhere because a fuse would have gone out long before a wire began burning. Is this so?
Thanks again,


Gerardo

 

[Department Of Boost]

I ordered the cable and the Stang is down in the meantime. I told the tech guy at PA Performance that the car smelled like a wire or plastic part was cooking. He didn't think it was the Alt cable and suggested I look elsewhere because a fuse would have gone out long before a wire began burning. Is this so?
Thanks again,


Gerardo

It definitely could be something else.

That said, the stock "fuse" is a portion of wire that is designed to melt. It could be right on the edge of its melting temp and causing problems.

I've seen one of the "fuses" melt (short to ground) and I can assure you it smelled like burnt wire/plastic.

 

[06Torch]

It definitely could be something else.

That said, the stock "fuse" is a portion of wire that is designed to melt. It could be right on the edge of its melting temp and causing problems.

I've seen one of the "fuses" melt (short to ground) and I can assure you it smelled like burnt wire/plastic.

The smell took me back to my plastic burning days as a kid. I'm sure you're right. I have to get in there and take a peak. I've just been working 14 hour shifts lately and would rather do it on a lazy Sunday morning. I only have time to shower and eat then it's off to the sack.

Thanks Mitch!


Gerardo

 

[06Torch]

It definitely could be something else.

That said, the stock "fuse" is a portion of wire that is designed to melt. It could be right on the edge of its melting temp and causing problems.

I've seen one of the "fuses" melt (short to ground) and I can assure you it smelled like burnt wire/plastic.

Mitch,
I installed the wire without a hitch. I had to route it underneath the intake manifold as the wire wouldn't reach otherwise. I wrapped it nicely with 3M tape and that black plastic casing to protect wires. It looks real factory.

Anyway, the smell is still there but not all the time. I get out of the car and I smell it but just a bit. Other times I can't at all. Where exactly is the fuse that melts? I'd like to take another look as I didn't see it along the wiring leading to the battery.
Thanks again!


Gerardo

 

[Department Of Boost]

Anyway, the smell is still there but not all the time. I get out of the car and I smell it but just a bit. Other times I can't at all. Where exactly is the fuse that melts? I'd like to take another look as I didn't see it along the wiring leading to the battery.
Thanks again!


Gerardo

On the stock wire that goes from the alternator to the battery you will see a blue section. The blue section is where the fuseable link is in the wire.

 

[06Torch]

On the stock wire that goes from the alternator to the battery you will see a blue section. The blue section is where the fuseable link is in the wire.

Ok, I definitely saw that section. I'll take a look tomorrow.
Thanks a lot!


Gerardo

 

[fdjizm]

On the stock wire that goes from the alternator to the battery you will see a blue section. The blue section is where the fuseable link is in the wire.

I deleted my blue thing, +20wrhp instantly.