Difficulty Shifting into Reverse After Track Day

[slackinoff]

Yea if the fluid change does not work for you, I would go junkyard 3560, and rebuild your original for fun or resale, ect.

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[slackinoff]

And here are some other PDFs on the 3650.

Rocky man you are killing it! Great job on the help.

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[dre256]

The money spent to tear into and rebuild a 3650 is most always not worth it. Pick up a 6060 and go forth

I looked loosely into 6060 to trade out my 3650 in my 03 GT 2V. 1st gear in 3650 is like 3.4 and 6060 is little less than 3, won't car be slower off the line in the 6060? Then now you have to change out your rear gears too adding to the cost?

 

[EdwardGT]

Try Royal Purple Syncromesh. It did wonders for my aging tranny.

 

[01yellerCobra]

What about the clutch? A clutch that isn't disengaging completely can cause issues with shifting. It could have also caused the grinding when you were racing.

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[rocky61201]

Try Royal Purple Syncromesh. It did wonders for my aging tranny.

DO NOT USE ROYAL PURPLE SYNCROMESH!!!!! It has additives in it that will cause premature wear on the carbon fiber lined snycros. I used it before I heard about this problem and wore my synchro's down to bare metal. When I rebuilt the transmission and tore it down there is a big magnet inside next to the drain plug. It was covered with shreds of carbon fiber.

Stick to what ford recommends, ATF Mercon 5.

Everything inside the tremec transmission works nice and smooth as long as there is fluid in it. The main problem with the transmission is the remote shifter. When the motor/trans is shifting/torqueing under load and the shifter is bolted to the transmission tunnel that doesn't move then obviously things are going to get out of line and it will be hard to get into gear. Then you start trying to force it because really does any of us want to let off the gas and slow down?????? That's when things get worn down and start breaking. Wanna play, gotta pay. Think about it this way. How many of you guys can bench press 225lb? Now think about how hard you are pressing on the shifter when trying to force 3rd gear with all of that adrenaline running thru you when racing...

IMO the best fix is the blowfish racing shifter bracket. I've had that along with a 10 year old UPR billet shifter. I've haven't missed a shift and been locked out of a gear since I put it on two years ago. But it is noisy as fuck, all vibrations travel right up into the shifter handle so it rattles big time. I don't really care because I don't miss shifts.

Keep in mind inside the tremec and any other manual trans there are bearing's on each end of the counter shaft and main shaft along with shims and required end play tolerances just like a rear differential. Over time they can wear out and things can get sloppy/noisy just like a rear differential. Then it's time for a rebuild.

 

[rocky61201]

Rocky man you are killing it! Great job on the help.

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Thanks man. Everything I learned about this car came from this forum. EVERYTHING. This section was way more active before the coyote came out. There were a lot of smart guys on here, way smarter than me. Were talking active and professional racers with reputable shops. There are still a few of those guys left on here. Me, I'm just a shade tree mechanic and haven't been to the track since I was 17 years old with my 68 Malibu. But I've had my 06GT since 2008 and racked up 205,000 miles so I got that going for me.

Lately all of the problems I see pop up here lately have already been covered to death about 5 to 10 years ago. And a lot of the advice given to solve those problems was better than some of the advice given here lately. Those threads are still out there, you just gotta search for them.

 

[46addict]

I looked loosely into 6060 to trade out my 3650 in my 03 GT 2V. 1st gear in 3650 is like 3.4 and 6060 is little less than 3, won't car be slower off the line in the 6060? Then now you have to change out your rear gears too adding to the cost?

Yes, 4.10s with a 6060 will feel like 3.55s with a 3650. Saleen304 did a before and after comparison with a 3.73 / 6060 combo versus 4.10 / 6060 and the difference in the 60' was like .05 sec. But he's also making 650 wheel so it depends on your power level and tolerance for a tall gear. Keep in mind the later 6060s (2013+) came with a 2.66 1st gear which will require even more rear gear in our 3v's.

http://www.s197forum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=132123

What about the clutch? A clutch that isn't disengaging completely can cause issues with shifting. It could have also caused the grinding when you were racing.

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On second thought I was going to suggest this too. If you boiled the clutch/brake fluid on the track it will not properly disengage the clutch in between shifts which would explain the gear grinding. If you rev the engine with the clutch pedal to the floor on level ground and the car begins to move, you know there's an issue with clutch disengagement.

 

[slackinoff]

Try Royal Purple Syncromesh. It did wonders for my aging tranny.

I read a bunch that the RP was a no no in our trans? Its the Penzoil synchromesh you want. Did you read anything anout that? Something in the RP tearing up the carbon fiber somethings up inside the trans......idk?!

Follow my cool mustang oriented Instagram Account "probuildmustangs"!!! You will not be disappointed.

Also, my high rpm lockout was solved with a new gt500 master cylinder/slave cylinder ( the one connected to your clutch pedal inside the cabin) mine was sloppy and not allowing the clutch to fully release.....plus is was right off the floor, which was super annoying. Totaly fixed that issue. Best fix I ever did to my mustang to date. It was cheap too. Talk to TASCA for a deal.

I would like to try the blowfish bracket to quicken my shifts, especially 2-3.

Follow my cool mustang oriented Instagram Account "probuildmustangs"!!! You will not be disappointed.

DO NOT USE ROYAL PURPLE SYNCROMESH!!!!! It has additives in it that will cause premature wear on the carbon fiber lined snycros. I used it before I heard about this problem and wore my synchro's down to bare metal. When I rebuilt the transmission and tore it down there is a big magnet inside next to the drain plug. It was covered with shreds of carbon fiber.

Stick to what ford recommends, ATF Mercon 5.

d.

Agreed!!! BUT..... Penzoil Synchromesh is great, and from the massive reading here I have done, the Penz is better than the ATF Merc 5......better as in smoother, slicker shifting.




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Follow my mustang oriented Instagram account Probuildmustangs. I think anyone here would enjoy the pictures and I would love to feature your car. Send me a msg! Thank you friends!!

Rm

 

[rocky61201]

Also, my high rpm lockout was solved with a new gt500 master cylinder/slave cylinder ( the one connected to your clutch pedal inside the cabin) mine was sloppy and not allowing the clutch to fully release.....plus is was right off the floor, which was super annoying. Totaly fixed that issue. Best fix I ever did to my mustang to date. It was cheap too. Talk to TASCA for a deal.Rm

Getting the 2013/2014 GT500 master cylinder is on my to do list, just haven't gotten around to it yet. I already broke my stock master cylinder that left me stranded on the side of the road. I can't believe Ford made that high stress part out of plastic. But I know Ford probably makes more money off parts than new cars. I needed a quick fix so I had to replace with a stocker from autozone. I heard the GT500 master is made out of metal joint/eye thingy where it attaches to the clutch pedal right???? That alone is worth the upgrade. If it ain't metal I'll cut the plastic one off and replace with my own metal heim type joint I'll fab up. Getting stuck on the side of the freeway sucks ass.

Imagine if the manufactures used a plastic joint to attach the brake pedal to the master cylinder and all of the wrongfull death lawsuits to follow when it fails. The clutch pedal/clutch master cylinder joint can have similar loads/forces put upon it but they made it out of plastic. WTF!!!

 

[slackinoff]

Correct it is metallic

Instagram account: "Probuildmustangs". I think anyone here would enjoy the pictures and I would love to feature your car. Send me a msg! Thank you friends!!

Rm

 

[Yoyo1]

Update: just changed my tran oil with Ford Motorcraft Mercon V. Guys...I think I got lucky. The Stang switches much smoother again! Feels about as good as it did before my little incident at the track. Goes into reverse about as good as it did before. At least I am not noticing any difference from b4 incident. It's kind of odd that a simple transmission oil change could make it feel that much better. Maybe my mis-shift did not really screw up the transmission? I don't know but I am happy and counting blessing the car seems to be OK...at least for now. Any case, thx for all the great input from everyone.

 

[slackinoff]

Update: just changed my tran oil with Ford Motorcraft Mercon V. Guys...I think I got lucky. The Stang switches much smoother again! Feels about as good as it did before my little incident at the track. Goes into reverse about as good as it did before. At least I am not noticing any difference from b4 incident. It's kind of odd that a simple transmission oil change could make it feel that much better. Maybe my mis-shift did not really screw up the transmission? I don't know but I am happy and counting blessing the car seems to be OK...at least for now. Any case, thx for all the great input from everyone.

I am happy to hear that!!!
Another weird thing about mine....after I do some quick shifting at higher rpm (not power shifting) the car will shift smoother all day week.

Instagram account: "Probuildmustangs"

Rm

 

[07gts197]

Im a little late to the show but I think thats my thread youre referring to. Im glad a fluid change helped you out, my fluid was changed a while back when these problems started occuring to no avail. Although I dont remember what fluid went in it, all I remember is that it was mobil 1 in a red bottle...

I recently swapped out my hurst shifter for the stocker with poly bushings and immediately noticed a difference. But my slave is getting up there so its not helping out any lol. Keep us posted if anything arises.

 

[slackinoff]

I think many of peoples problems now that these cars have some miles on them are from the eyelet on the clutch pedal cylinder. They get a little sloppy and it causes the clutch to not fully engage/release - however you want to call it. Basically you loose critical clutch pedal travel.

Instagram account: "Probuildmustangs"

Rm

 

[rocky61201]

I think many of peoples problems now that these cars have some miles on them are from the eyelet on the clutch pedal cylinder. They get a little sloppy and it causes the clutch to not fully engage/release - however you want to call it. Basically you loose critical clutch pedal travel.

Instagram account: "Probuildmustangs"

Rm

I agree, the plastic eyelet is garbage. Ford did a lot of R&D for the 2005 Mustang and gave us a great product, but they carried over the TR3650 from the 2001-2004. They could have at least had tremec make an extended tailshaft for it to get rid of the remote shifter. Also the master cylinder is a POS. A key stress point made of plastic and engagement way to low on the pedal. Even when everything is working properly the key is taking the load off the input shaft and countershaft to ensure a clean trouble free shift. Taking the load off as soon as possible would be ideal, but that can't happen when the clutch is being engaged so late, if even a millisecond.

I'm 6ft tall, but I still installed the clutch pedal extender pad thingy to get the clutch to engage sooner and I have the braided steel hydraulic clutch line as well. It helps but still isn't ideal.

All of this talk has made me decide to stop procrastinating on the 2013/14 GT500 master cylinder. Going to order one this week and be done with it. My insurance covers towing, but might as well get it done anyway to avoid another breakdown when the plastic one breaks. And if engagement of the clutch is higher on the pedal travel I'll be a happy mofo.

For all of the troubles I've had and money spent on repairs and upgrades I figure I'm still about $3,000 less than the T56 magnum upgrade.

 

[slackinoff]

I agree, the plastic eyelet is garbage.......

I'm 6ft tall, but I still installed the clutch pedal extender pad thingy to get the clutch to engage sooner and I have the braided steel hydraulic clutch line as well. It helps but still isn't ideal.

I am 5ft6in....think about how much of a pain in the ass it was for me!

All of this talk has made me decide to stop procrastinating on the 2013/14 GT500 master cylinder. Going to order one this week and be done with it. My insurance covers towing, but might as well get it done anyway to avoid another breakdown when the plastic one breaks.

You will love the GT500 master cylinder....it put my engagement right at the top of the stroke! I need spacer on the back of my pedal for all the dead space!