Discussion on elecetrical switches

[GI Joe]

Why do some switches have 3 prongs and say
power
ground
load
I'm a retard here ( not a fuktard, thats different)
If you are using a switch to close a ground or close a 12V circuit, whats the 3rd prong for?
If you are using a switch that has an led bulb in it, and you are using the switch to close a ground, is there any way to make it light the bulb?

 

[black05stxjt]

the ground is what makes the light work, most of the switches ive seen only have 3 poles if they have a light....all the others have 2 poles.

 

[Freaknazty]

im with you lol i bought the same kind of switch for my line locks but slp told me i couldn't break the power it had to be the ground so i have a switch in my dash with a blue led that never lights up lol im sure it could be done but im just not bright enough to figure it out and deff not looking to short out my pcm

 

[scramblr]

My two toggle switches are 3 prong and lite up since I have power and ground running through them. My fan switch LED does not lite up since I'm only using it to close the ground. I'd have to run a 12v to it in order to lite the LED. I'm not running power to it just for the light.

 

[GI Joe]

My two toggle switches are 3 prong and lite up since I have power and ground running through them. My fan switch LED does not lite up since I'm only using it to close the ground. I'd have to run a 12v to it in order to lite the LED. I'm not running power to it just for the light.

ok but here is the qustion
so it has an open ground and the switch closes it. How would a single 12 V to the 3rd prong make the light work? Its not grounded...and if its not internally insulated what would keep it from shorting?..like freaknasty was eluding to there? Thats the situation I have. I dont know if I CAN use the bulb or not?????

 

[Charlie Sheen]

Wouldn't the bulb be on a seperate/parallel line so that if the bulb actually went out, power could still continue through the accessory?

 

[GI Joe]

Wouldn't the bulb be on a seperate/parallel line so that if the bulb actually went out, power could still continue through the accessory?

man I am a curriculum writer...I know only enough to be dangerous on wiring...LOL
I know motors...but no electrical at least not beyond + and - LOL
This is why I bring the issue here...for some help from guys that know.

 

[thump_rrr]

It all depends on what you're trying to power.

On most things automotive power goes directly to the component and only a connection to ground is needed to make it run. When that's the case use the following wiring to make it work.
Connect whatever component it may be to the power terminal.
Connect the load terminal to ground.
Connect the ground terminal to a 12V power source.

When you have a component where the ground is connected all the time and you need to feed it 12V to run connect 12V to the power terminal.
Connect the ground terminal to ground.
Connect the the component to the load terminal.
When the switch is closed it sends power to the load and through the light to ground.

 

[GI Joe]

It all depends on what you're trying to power.

On most things automotive power goes directly to the component and only a connection to ground is needed to make it run. When that's the case use the following wiring to make it work.
Connect whatever component it may be to the power terminal.
Connect the load terminal to ground.
Connect the ground terminal to a 12V power source.

When you have a component where the ground is connected all the time and you need to feed it 12V to run connect 12V to the power terminal.
Connect the ground terminal to ground.
Connect the the component to the load terminal.
When the switch is closed it sends power to the load and through the light to ground.

ummmmmmmmmmmm I better go get several beers before that makes sense to me
Back to original post.
I have an open ground switched. Power is already at the device ( transmission lockup) So I want to make the LED on the switch work. Can I and how..

 

[scramblr]

Dave...Try post 30 through 36 and see if that's what you're looking for.

http://www.s197forum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=7016&highlight=fan&page=2

 

[GI Joe]

It all depends on what you're trying to power.

On most things automotive power goes directly to the component and only a connection to ground is needed to make it run. When that's the case use the following wiring to make it work.
Connect whatever component it may be to the power terminal.
Connect the load terminal to ground.
Connect the ground terminal to a 12V power source.

When you have a component where the ground is connected all the time and you need to feed it 12V to run connect 12V to the power terminal.
Connect the ground terminal to ground.
Connect the the component to the load terminal.
When the switch is closed it sends power to the load and through the light to ground.

OK after re re re re reading it LOL I think the second scenario is how my tranny brake is set up...only no ground. Its grounded internally through the tranny case. So 12 V is switched. Cool
The O/D and Lock up are on open grounds so I see that the first scenario is appropriate. But...I still dont see the LED lighting in this deal explain more please.

 

[GI Joe]

Dave...Try post 30 through 36 and see if that's what you're looking for.

http://www.s197forum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=7016&highlight=fan&page=2

yes sir...thats what I was afraid of. I dont have a choice like you did. I have to use an open ground so I might be better off with a toggle so I can at least SEE the position better. Thanks much for the info..
Dave

 

[SoundGuyDave]

Also, just as an aside, the comment "slp told me i couldn't break the power it had to be the ground" is beyond asanine... Line-locks are simple solenoids, and could care less whether the interruption in current flow is in the ground or +V side of the circuit... interrupted is interrupted! Other devices (some rev limiters, nitrous window switches, etc.) may come designed for one power input and two ground leads, one for the "computational" side of things, and the other to drive a solenoid or relay, and that's a whole different matter!

Seriously, if you want to wire up the line-locks by feeding power from the SJB to a dash switch, and then to the solenoid(s), you will have no issue doing so. In my opinion, it would probably be safer that way, anyway. Assuming you have a wire chafe, and it's on the ground side of the solenoid, and it accidently shorts to ground, your line-lock soleniod becomes energised, and blocks the brake line... VERY handy to have when you're trying to panic stop from highway speeds! [/sarcasm]

If you wire it with the long lines being +V, in the "traditional" manner, and the line shorts (like rubbing against the hole in the firewall, for example), the worst that happens is that you blow your line-lock fuse. I would rather have to replace the fuse than explain to the insurance company why the latest modification you did caused your front brakes not to function, and as a result, you plowed into the stereotypical bus-load of nuns on their way to save the starving children... Ralph Nader is salivating just thinking about that one...

 

[GI Joe]

Also, just as an aside, the comment "slp told me i couldn't break the power it had to be the ground" is beyond asanine... Line-locks are simple solenoids, and could care less whether the interruption in current flow is in the ground or +V side of the circuit... interrupted is interrupted! Other devices (some rev limiters, nitrous window switches, etc.) may come designed for one power input and two ground leads, one for the "computational" side of things, and the other to drive a solenoid or relay, and that's a whole different matter!

Seriously, if you want to wire up the line-locks by feeding power from the SJB to a dash switch, and then to the solenoid(s), you will have no issue doing so. In my opinion, it would probably be safer that way, anyway. Assuming you have a wire chafe, and it's on the ground side of the solenoid, and it accidently shorts to ground, your line-lock soleniod becomes energised, and blocks the brake line... VERY handy to have when you're trying to panic stop from highway speeds! [/sarcasm]

If you wire it with the long lines being +V, in the "traditional" manner, and the line shorts (like rubbing against the hole in the firewall, for example), the worst that happens is that you blow your line-lock fuse. I would rather have to replace the fuse than explain to the insurance company why the latest modification you did caused your front brakes not to function, and as a result, you plowed into the stereotypical bus-load of nuns on their way to save the starving children... Ralph Nader is salivating just thinking about that one...

where did that come from? The other thread? I did not read it all.....EDIT I SEE IT NOW LOL
I think solenoids are faster wired to open grounds...
I wired my line locks to open grounds too.
Someone said that they might lock up my brakes...LOL no that wont happen either...not if you think about how they are in line...yes they could cut off flow because the solenoid closed the lines...I dont know if they would completely be cut off or not...since they have to be pumped to work at the track.....but
better know where the emer brake handle is for sure..LOL

 

[Hawgman]

freaknazty - whoever told you that didn't know what they were talking about. I have SLP line locks and as you will see in my reply to Dave I break the power.



Dave- Ok, let me use my line lock switch as an example to explain.
It is 3 pole. Power, Load, and Ground.

I come off my fused power source to the "power" pole on the switch. Then from the "load" pole of the switch to one of the poles on the line lock solenoid. The "ground" pole of the switch goes to ground. The second lead on the line lock solenoid also goes to ground.

Turn the switch on and it completes the "power" side of the circuit to my line locks. It also uses the voltage going through it to power the LED in the switch. The LED circuit is completed between the "power" pole and the "ground" pole on the switch. There is no circuit completion between ground and load, so you are not causing a short to ground by turning on the switch.

Make sense?

 

[GI Joe]

freaknazty - whoever told you that didn't know what they were talking about. I have SLP line locks and as you will see in my reply to Dave I break the power.



Dave- Ok, let me use my line lock switch as an example to explain.
It is 3 pole. Power, Load, and Ground.

I come off my fused power source to the "power" pole on the switch. Then from the "load" pole of the switch to one of the poles on the line lock solenoid. The "ground" pole of the switch goes to ground. The second lead on the line lock solenoid also goes to ground.

Turn the switch on and it completes the "power" side of the circuit to my line locks. It also uses the voltage going through it to power the LED in the switch. The LED circuit is completed between the "power" pole and the "ground" pole on the switch. There is no circuit completion between ground and load, so you are not causing a short to ground by turning on the switch.

Make sense?

yup...also made sense back when Scrambler sent me over to that other thread a while ago. LOL
But what I was trying to find out was..........
never mind..I got it...

 

[Hawgman]

Well fuck ya then. See if I try to help.

 

[thump_rrr]

OK after re re re re reading it LOL I think the second scenario is how my tranny brake is set up...only no ground. Its grounded internally through the tranny case. So 12 V is switched. Cool
The O/D and Lock up are on open grounds so I see that the first scenario is appropriate. But...I still dont see the LED lighting in this deal explain more please.

Connect whatever component it may be to the power terminal.
Connect the load terminal to ground.
Connect the ground terminal to a 12V power source.

OK I went to my garage and tested it so I know it works.

The whole problem is that the terminals are named the way they are because they're assuming that you will be feeding 12v through the switch.
this is why they call the terminals supply, load and ground.
the component terminal also connects to one side of the bulb with ground being the other.

since we are using the switch for a ground the side of the switch named ground needs 12V to power the indicator light.

by wiring the "load" terminal to ground you are isolating it which doesn't allow either the component or the indicator light to find ground unless the switch is flipped.

The bottom line is that it works

 

[GI Joe]

Well fuck ya then. See if I try to help.

hahahahahahahahaha love ya too...biatch

 

[GI Joe]

Connect whatever component it may be to the power terminal.
Connect the load terminal to ground.
Connect the ground terminal to a 12V power source.

OK I went to my garage and tested it so I know it works.

The whole problem is that the terminals are named the way they are because they're assuming that you will be feeding 12v through the switch.
this is why they call the terminals supply, load and ground.
the component terminal also connects to one side of the bulb with ground being the other.

since we are using the switch for a ground the side of the switch named ground needs 12V to power the indicator light.

by wiring the "load" terminal to ground you are isolating it which doesn't allow either the component or the indicator light to find ground unless the switch is flipped.

The bottom line is that it works

I dont think that will work.....because the tranny has 1 single wire going in 12V for both L/U and O/D and uses a circuit board off the common hot.
So to do that would mean to throw overdrive and lock up at the same time...which would be ideal on the street but at the track I need to throw lock up in 3rd without O/D