DR + Stock clutch?

johnnyv8

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Yeah, thats the one, give John a call and he can hook you up with pricing. It doesn't say it in the description, but he can tell you everything it comes with and if you are going to need anything else.

I called and a women answered and told me John out of the office for the day and the sale ends tomorrow. So how much did you pay for ur clutch? the sale price is $359.99
 

johnnyv8

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He has the M&H 275/50/17 DR..The stock clutch will be fine at his power level..

Many of the clutch problems I have seen are guys using too much brake during the burnout..That will eat a clutch in a heart beat. Learn to feather the brakes or get a line lock and the problem is solved.

I love my dum questions, how does power braking burn up the clutch?
 

Vapour Trails

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I love my dum questions, how does power braking burn up the clutch?

By griping the rear rotors so tightly that instead of the wheels turning, the clutch/flywheel surface interface starts slipping and overheating. This is the reason why water is used, to make the wheels spin easier.

In my opinion, you have to be a total idiot for this to happen.

Also, burnouts need not be long. I burnout for maybe 3 seconds before I release the brake and gradually come out of the throttle.
 

GrnBullitt08

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You think so? Even w/ 70,000 and counting? the stock clutch as been great w/ street tires but I'm scared of the M&H's LOL.

Yes I think so.... As long as you plan on staying in the 300-350hp range that stock clutch is more than enough. There are plenty on guys that will back me up on that. But I you plan on adding a blower in the next year then upgrade. It all depends on what your doing with the car.

And I'm not saying reuse the current.... Get a new stock clutch and even a new stock flywheel while your at it plus the slave cylinder. You'll be fine. Even with those M&Hs
 

Riptide

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There is at least one person I can think of with a Whipple HO and vmp tune that made many passes at the drag strip on the stock clutch without any problems.
 

Vapour Trails

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There is at least one person I can think of with a Whipple HO and vmp tune that made many passes at the drag strip on the stock clutch without any problems.

You can me to that list. 11+ psi, no clutch slip yet after 1 year, a lot of racing and 10k miles.
 

johnnyv8

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Kinda like this but this guy was seriously standing on the brake

Heres the link http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IENWE6DMYK4


lol, I've seen that; that sucks. I think I'll be ok though I hope. I may look for a new oem clutch,flywheel,slave cyl. But If the price is close to a beefer one, why not upgrade. I'm also going talk to my buddys who are putting all these stuff in.
 

ArtQ

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Basically, the front brakes grip more than the rears, by holding the brake pedal down just enough to hold the car during the burn out it doesn't apply as much force to the rear brakes, which in turn does not load up the clutch as much as trying to drive the rear wheels through full brake force.
 

1FastS197

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He has the M&H 275/50/17 DR..The stock clutch will be fine at his power level..

Many of the clutch problems I have seen are guys using too much brake during the burnout..That will eat a clutch in a heart beat. Learn to feather the brakes or get a line lock and the problem is solved.

i agree 100% and my clutch may have had issues to begin with, my car is also used and i don't know who did what to it... so he may very well be okay, but i had a 275/40 17" Mickey Thompson drag radail and didn't give a minutes issue.. but that tire is about 1" shorter than what i have now... all i have motor wise is a tune, delete's, and C&L street intake... mostly suspension on mine... and being on the brake to hard could be my problem... i would prolly buy an aftermarket clutch just because i would like the piece of mind but even if you burn the stock one, its not like your out anything... resurface the flywheel and put an aftermarket clutch and slave cylinder/throwout bearing in and your good then...
 

1FastS197

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lol, I've seen that; that sucks. I think I'll be ok though I hope. I may look for a new oem clutch,flywheel,slave cyl. But If the price is close to a beefer one, why not upgrade. I'm also going talk to my buddys who are putting all these stuff in.

if you are gonna buy one, get a good one.... spec, ram, or whatever they will hold more than a stock clutch and more specified to your application...
 

ArtQ

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i agree 100% and my clutch may have had issues to begin with, my car is also used and i don't know who did what to it... so he may very well be okay, but i had a 275/40 17" Mickey Thompson drag radail and didn't give a minutes issue.. but that tire is about 1" shorter than what i have now... all i have motor wise is a tune, delete's, and C&L street intake... mostly suspension on mine... and being on the brake to hard could be my problem... i would prolly buy an aftermarket clutch just because i would like the piece of mind but even if you burn the stock one, its not like your out anything... resurface the flywheel and put an aftermarket clutch and slave cylinder/throwout bearing in and your good then...

The main thing with aftermarket clutches and you can pick a company, I've used Exedy, Spec, Ram, Zoom and RPS..Had minor to major issues with every one of them..Now most guys don't run their cars as much as I do, or launch at 6500 to 7200 rpms, or speed shift at 6800 rpm...But the way I look at it is..I have had zero issues using the stock clutch with hundreds of runs down the track..It's a safe choice to stick with stock for what he will be using the car for, at his power level.
 

1FastS197

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The main thing with aftermarket clutches and you can pick a company, I've used Exedy, Spec, Ram, Zoom and RPS..Had minor to major issues with every one of them..Now most guys don't run their cars as much as I do, or launch at 6500 to 7200 rpms, or speed shift at 6800 rpm...But the way I look at it is..I have had zero issues using the stock clutch with hundreds of runs down the track..It's a safe choice to stick with stock for what he will be using the car for, at his power level.

see, thats what i don't understand... i shift mine at around 6500 and leave at around 4000/4500 at the most... now i shift hard and fast tho but it did great with the Mickeys and broke with a Nitto, WTF... that bother's me... there was a guy standing next to the water box... i backed up and spun the tires over in first in the box... pulled out and stuck it in second... as soon as i came off the clutch, the car didn't move at all... it never tried to break the back tires loose... it wraped up to 6K and i knew something let go... i asked the guy if it spun any and he said it never even tried... but my car was also used and the clutch may have had a hard life before me... it made prolly 10 passes on the Mickeys and never gave a minutes issue...
 

ArtQ

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see, thats what i don't understand... i shift mine at around 6500 and leave at around 4000/4500 at the most... now i shift hard and fast tho but it did great with the Mickeys and broke with a Nitto, WTF... that bother's me... there was a guy standing next to the water box... i backed up and spun the tires over in first in the box... pulled out and stuck it in second... as soon as i came off the clutch, the car didn't move at all... it never tried to break the back tires loose... it wraped up to 6K and i knew something let go... i asked the guy if it spun any and he said it never even tried... but my car was also used and the clutch may have had a hard life before me... it made prolly 10 passes on the Mickeys and never gave a minutes issue...

Yeah it's tough to say being you don't know the history of the car...Sometimes they don't put enough water down..It's up to you to check it before pulling in.
 

johnnyv8

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Any1 know where I can get a oem clutch,flywheel, & slave cylinder?

Also Rench, What spec/exedy did you have? I'm looking at the stage 1 and the exe 400 which is on sale for $359 which includes a slave cylinder.
 

ArtQ

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Any1 know where I can get a oem clutch,flywheel, & slave cylinder?

Also Rench, What spec/exedy did you have? I'm looking at the stage 1 and the exe 400 which is on sale for $359 which includes a slave cylinder.

Ford sells everything as a kit now, comes with the clutch, pressure plate, slave cylinder and pilot bearing, I think it's around 650.00.

I think I had the 400..I used Exedy's light weight flywheel, it was fine on the street. After about 25 runs I started missing gears and it drug me through the lights once. It had to go...

The Specs, I had the stage 2's..way too many issues to list with those clutches..keep in mind, if you roll the dice on an aftermarket clutch, you will get virtually zero support from the company if you have issues, so count on eating the full cost every time....
 
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GrnBullitt08

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Yeah...I believe Matt replace his stock clutch with a Spec 3+ and then put the stock on back in because he was unhappy with the performace. And that man runs his car like a mad man. He launches very high in the rpm band and shifts high as well like Rench does. Im putting a stock clutch back into mine once I fry my Spec Stage 1 out. Which will be in the spring once it takes a few 5K launches.
 

johnnyv8

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Just figure I give you guys an update. I decide to order an exedy clutch from BBR. While I'm waiting on the clutch to be shipped, I did decide to take m car w/ my stock OEM clutch(70k miles) to the track. So far, it seems just fine, I have a total of 4 launches. One @ 4g, another 4500, & the last two 5500+. My best 60ft still sucks @ 2.0(i've down better w/ my all sea tires). But back to my point, the oem clutch does seem to be ok.

I'll keep you guys updated w/ any more runs w/ the stock clutch & when I do get the exedy in.
 

rojizostang

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well, don't be surprised. so far the stock clutch worked better than the exedy. with the stock clutch, the et streets would hook up and i could pull consistent 1.6 60 foot times. now with the exedy 400, it grabs, and the tires spin:(
 
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