driveshaft broke.

[Gabe]

Damn, and I was looking forward to a nice little trip and help you work on the beast ... lol

Glad nothing's broken, if there's anything I can still help with, let me know

 

[Captainstr8edge]

Thanks Gabe.

Just got back from the dealership. $31 for all 6. They come in pairs with the strap. Won't come in until tomorrow morning though.

 

[TexasBlownV8]

...use some blue loctite when putting them in!!!!...someone didn't do that and they came loose...
(nevermind; the new ones from ford already have the goop on them.)

 

[Captainstr8edge]

...use some blue loctite when putting them in!!!!...someone didn't do that and they came loose...
(nevermind; the new ones from ford already have the goop on them.)

Yeah, I'll be sure to make sure its there.

Took a better pic of what I'm talking about.

 

[fdjizm]

Damn i'm good. Ace ventura style bro.

 

[RED09GT]

I'd still tell the wife it's broken and tell her it is much cheaper and better to upgrade to aluminum

awesome autocorrect malfunctions brought to you by tapatalk

 

[19COBRA93]

Whoever put a wrench on those last should be smacked upside the head.

 

[Captainstr8edge]

I don't know who it could have been. Why would those be taken out in the first place?

 

[Captainstr8edge]

So this is how the bolts came



Turns out the straps were a little smaller. Made my first attempt a huge pain in the ass. I eventually figured it out and used the old stamps and they went in nice and easy. Seems to be doing pretty good now. I'll check the bolts again in a few days just to be sure.

 

[Pentalab]

Down the road sometime... you may want to install the DSS-DS. I had the 3.5" aluminum DSS-DS installed on my 2010 GT and never looked back. It uses a CV joint at the axle end..and a universal joint at the tranny end. By using a CV joint at the axle end, then pinion angle is not at all critical. Mine is an automatic..and I heard one too many horror stories about using the shaft masters shaft..esp with an automatic.

My buddy also has a 2010 GT automatic...with the shaftmasters Aluminum 3.5" DS....and pinion angle is very critical on it. ( shaftmasters has a universal on both ends). It amounts to running it up till it vibrates. Then pinion angle is tweaked in .1 deg steps..till the vibration either stops..or stops at a speed well above what you intend to drive the car at. Having to tweak the pinion angle in .1 deg steps before each dyno run is a pita.

The only real safe way to do all of this is on a dyno. My buddy still hasn't got it right..it vibrates at 120 mph ! ( he has a 3.73 rear gear). ( he didn't use a dyno)

My DSS-DS doesn't vibrate on the dyno..at least at 150 mph in 4th gear...@ 6000 eng rpm. (I have the oem 3.31 rear gear.) The DSS is plug + play..rated for 900 rwhp.

The oem 2 piece steel clunker DS weighs a ton. Oem DS has a universal at tranny end..and also in the middle... and a CV joint at axle end. Oem ds also has a carrier bearing, sorta like a pillow block bearing....located just aft of the bearing.

Per DSS, you end up getting another 30 ft lbs of TQ around 2500 rpm....dropping off a bit, above and below 2.5 k rpm. It amounts to another 15 rwhp @ 2.5 krpm. At the top end of the eng rpm...it amounts to another 5 rwhp. It amounts to free rwtq/hp.

I had the BMR rear tunnel brace ( + rear DS safety loop) installed at the same time as the DSS-DS. Also at the same time went in the steeda triangular sub frame connector's. BMR brace is 33" wide, and 1/4" thick steel plate and is a simple bolt on affair. The steeda triangular braces are also bolted..then also welded for max effect.

The DSS-DS runs really smooth. The car has a M90 in it..but with oem 73mm pulley, ( 5.8 psi ) 94 tune, JBA LT's and catted H, and FRPP twin 62mm TB. 390 rwhp, 370 rwtq. Next month, in goes the VMP-TVS-1900 blower head swap.

IF you do go to an aftermarket DS, I would not recommend a 4" shaft. I have zero clearance issues with the 3.5" DSS-DS...even with suspension at full droop..and using the BMR rear tunnel brace and DS safety loop. BTW, the BMR rear safety loop ends up being located just aft of where the oem carrier bearing once stood. IE: the BMR rear safety loop is just aft of the center point of the shaft.

I didn't mess with the front safety loop. If the DS ever broke at the front end... the DS wouldn't drop much anyway...it would be caught by the rear safety loop. The shaft is relatively short to begin with.

While off on a tangent... I also installed the steeda REAR STB..in the trunk...and had it tig welded into place.

Later... Jimbo

 

[Captainstr8edge]

yeah, If it has any more issues I will be getting the DSS drive shaft. I just wish they weren't so expensive. I don't really plan on doing much more as far as performance. I may eventually trade it in and get a 5.0 but that probably won't be for a while.

 

[twizted91gt]

Shaftmasters----$550 shipped FMS0510GTV835D
Cant go wrong....great quality 3.5" aluminum shaft.

 

[fdjizm]

Mines is shaftmasters, has been running great for years.
Think I paid around 550 for it.

 

[eighty6gt]

Dude, it broke your transmission with vibration!

 

[fdjizm]

No it didn't, it's not the shaft.
The car vibes with the OEM DS too.
Something in the rear end, tested the shaft swap a long time ago.

 

[eighty6gt]

Whew.

 

[Pentalab]

Shaftmasters----$550 shipped FMS0510GTV835D
Cant go wrong....great quality 3.5" aluminum shaft.

It will work.... provided your pinion angle is dead on..so it doesn't vibrate at XXX mph.
Although the shaftmaster's is slightly cheaper..you really save nothing in the end, since you will now have to adjust your pinion angle....which will require an adjustable UCA. So now you have to drop the gas tank (05-10 cars)....and remove oem UCA...and replace with an adjustable UCA...then start with the endless tweaking. You also require a digital level, so you can measure the pinion angle.. in .1 deg increments.

Originally, I bought the shaftmaster's DS for my 2010 Automatic. After hearing just one too many horror stories (2010 GT + automatic is a bad combo with the shaftmasters shaft)... I sold it to a local buddy..who installed it in his 2008 GT. His 08 has not been lowered. So far, so good, no vibration up to 75 mph on the hwy. Next time he has it on the dyno
(to check the eng mods + latest tune) it will get checked for any DS vibration.

For you folks who have installed a shaftmasters shaft....and have no vibration problems out on the street / hwy / strip /road course, be real careful the next time you have the car on the dyno. In 4th gear (1:1 ratio) on any 05-10 car..... the DS is spinning the SAME speed as the eng RPM. (The rear gear ratio doesn't enter into the equation).

Your typ dyno operator will wind it up to 6000-6500 rpm. (That equates to 150 - 162.5 mph with a 3.31 rear gear)..and (133 - 144 mph with a 3.73 rear gear). Tell the dyno op, if he hears any DS vibration, to shut it down asap. The shaft will start to wobulate... like a skipping rope. If you have ever seen a DS break on the dyno at 4-6.5 krpm, it's not a pretty site.

Jimbo

 

[torchred]

I think part of the paranoia with the shaftmasters is people trying to wrap their head around why its $200 cheaper.....thus it must be inferior somehow.......as far as the pinion angle thing, i thought most people on here will be running an aftermarket uca anyways eventually so its a moot point. Not trying to be a brand swinger for shaftmasters but i dont understand the need to pay more if you have near stock suspension and the shaftmaster works just as good for 2/3 the price ........

 

[Timmbo]

I have had my Shaftmasters 1 piece for four years now. No issues. It's been on two dynos over the years as well. The last dyno about two weeks ago churning out 726 HP and 655 TQ.

 

[Pentalab]

I have had my Shaftmasters 1 piece for four years now. No issues. It's been on two dynos over the years as well. The last dyno about two weeks ago churning out 726 HP and 655 TQ.

That's one helluva lot of hp / tq you have there ! Yikes... that's a bunch.

BTW... shaftmaster's rates their shaft at 750 hp. DSS rates their's at 900 hp. The DSS-DS is rated for 3450 ft lbs of TQ.

The CV joint at the axle end of the DSS-DS can easily be replaced.... for aprx $100.00 if it ever get's trashed.

Since I had the DSS-DS installed by my local Ford dealer, ( + BMR tunnel brace + DS safety loop, + the pair of steeda triangular sub frame connector's)..... I didn't want a potential gong show on my hands. IF I had to get the pinion angle re-tweaked a few times, etc, the $$ would start to add up.

Even then, the pinion angle should be tweaked at the dyno place across town.

The shaft masters is a good DS. But it seems to be hit and miss. Some folks have zero vibration problems with em..and other's ( esp automatics) are a real pita. 808 muscle has a 08 automatic with a M90 blower...and lives in Hawaii. His shaftmaster's DS was a real PITA. They couldn't get the vibration out of it no matter what they tried. 1-2 more replacement shafts sent out..same deal. He gave up in the end..and re-installed the oem 2 piece clunker.

I told him about my DSS-DS on my 2010 automatic. He ordered one, in it went... zero vibration problems.

Walker2T has the shaft master's on his 2010 GT automatic, (also with a M90). He had to get the pinion angle tweaked 3 times before they got the vibration out of it. Then he tells me a few months ago the DS vibrates at 120 mph. He had never had it up to 120 mph b4. So he left it for now...and just keeps the max speed < 120 mph.

Dunno what it is with the shaftmaster's + an automatic ( 5r55) ?

The DSS-DS shaft is the same DS for all 05-10 cars, and both 5 speed manual..and 5 speed automatic. http://www.driveshaftshop.com/domes...-3-1-2o-aluminum-1330-has-no-clearance-issues