Duals Checklist

[4LiterSonic]

I'm finally getting on the ball and getting my dual exhaust setup finished.

I'm just confirming that these are the parts that I need.

1. GT500 Takeoff Mufflers (Already bought)
2. WALKER Part # 55248 {Dynomax Intermediate Pipe}
   2 1/2 Inch System; LH [link to RockAuto] (I haven't bought this yet, is this the part that I need?)
3. Either the FRPP X-Pipe (from eBay) or the Pypes Cut/Clamp X pipe (from AM) (Which one should I buy? Will the FRPP GT Pipe fit on the setup I'm wanting to run?)

Now for some other questions:
Will this require welding (I'm 99.9%sure that it won't, but my dad thinks it might)
Will the X hook up to that RockAuto part?
Should I buy the FRPP kit? Will I run into any fitment issues with the other parts?

Any input is greatly appreciated.

 

[Ken04]

I'm finally getting on the ball and getting my dual exhaust setup finished.

I'm just confirming that these are the parts that I need.

1. GT500 Takeoff Mufflers (Already bought)
2. WALKER Part # 55248 {Dynomax Intermediate Pipe}
   2 1/2 Inch System; LH [link to RockAuto] (I haven't bought this yet, is this the part that I need?)
3. Either the FRPP X-Pipe (from eBay) or the Pypes Cut/Clamp X pipe (from AM) (Which one should I buy? Will the FRPP GT Pipe fit on the setup I'm wanting to run?)

Now for some other questions:
Will this require welding (I'm 99.9%sure that it won't, but my dad thinks it might)
Will the X hook up to that RockAuto part?
Should I buy the FRPP kit? Will I run into any fitment issues with the other parts?

Any input is greatly appreciated.

for the money, and for the ease of installation, look for a true dual conversion. Pypes makes probably the most popular kit. But since you've bought mufflers already find an online seller who will sell you the X pipe, clamps and the 2 mid pipes. A sawzall or tubing cutter and you'll be done. You'll cut off you old system behind the cats before the Y pipe. The new 2 1/2" X pipe will slide right over your stock 2 1/4" pipes. Add your 2 mid pipes that go up over the axle, your mufflers and you're set. No welding required. One caveat to Pypes, their fitment isn't the best so prepare to do a little adjusting here and there. The hangers for the X-pipe didn't come close to fitting in the crossmember locations. Other than that they're not bad. I think I paid $225 for the conversion kit minus mufflers from a guy on fleabay.

 

[TexasBlownV8]

You CAN re-use the passenger side mid-pipe; it'll just have the extra damper weights on them one of which you can partially unbolt and remove (the rubber part).
The V6 exhasut is 2.25" before the Y, and your x will be 2.5". You'll need to weld or clamp the x-pipe to or over the 2.25 piping; welding is best, but using an adapter or other clamping mechanism can work, just make sure it can get sealed.

You'll need 2 muffler hangers for the driver side.
The hardest part of getting all this together for most people is the driver-side pipe. Ideally you'll want to get the stainless steel one instead of aluminized steel.

Good luck!

 

[Ken04]

You CAN re-use the passenger side mid-pipe; it'll just have the extra damper weights on them one of which you can partially unbolt and remove (the rubber part).
The V6 exhasut is 2.25" before the Y, and your x will be 2.5". You'll need to weld or clamp the x-pipe to or over the 2.25 piping; welding is best, but using an adapter or other clamping mechanism can work, just make sure it can get sealed.

You'll need 2 muffler hangers for the driver side.
The hardest part of getting all this together for most people is the driver-side pipe. Ideally you'll want to get the stainless steel one instead of aluminized steel.

Good luck!

the Pypes conversion kit came with 2 new muffler hangers, BUT the holes are not tapped in the V6, and it's a bitch tapping 2 of them since there's no room. The stock mid pipe in the sixer has a weird flat spot in it, for torque enhancement ? Exhaust note ? I dunno. And as you say it has a sound dampener on it.

 

[TexasBlownV8]

What holes aren't tapped? Mounting holes in the frame? I had no issues with them. But I've heard others did, so it'll depend.

The flat spot won't hurt unless it's in the way of a coupler.
I did replace the passenger-side over-axle pipe, but only because I picked up the gt mufflers and mid-pipes pipes together as a set.

Get 'em in and let us know how it goes!

 

[Ken04]

What holes aren't tapped? Mounting holes in the frame? I had no issues with them. But I've heard others did, so it'll depend.

The flat spot won't hurt unless it's in the way of a coupler.
I did replace the passenger-side over-axle pipe, but only because I picked up the gt mufflers and mid-pipes pipes together as a set.

Get 'em in and let us know how it goes!

not one of the driver's side muffler hanger holes had threads in them. The 2 that point staright down were fairly easy to tap, but the 2 at right angles to the ground had no room to get my tap in because of the spare tire. It was not fun.

My 06 V6 mid pipe has a flat spot right where it goes over the axle. I did think of putting just a drivers side mid pipe in but it was almost the same price for an X, 2 mid pipes and all the clamps/hangers I needed to get the whole kit minus the mufflers. And shipping was less without the muffler boxes. I put stingers on the GT so I had 2 brand new 2010 mufflers that were on the GT when I bought it so I used those on the conversion. And to my ear, the GT take offs make the best noise on a V6 with a true dual conversion.

 

[Kona6Stang10]

To tap the driver side muffler hangers I just bought some grade 10 bolts and ratcheted them in lol

sore forearms ftw !!lol

 

[TexasBlownV8]

Lol, Kona, whatever works!!!! I've done that, too! just put some WD40, PB, or oil on the threads when doing it, to help the 'threading' process.

The flat spot on the pipes for going over the rear end reduces the chance of the pipe hitting. That's a common problem area, as is the panhard bar, for pipe contact and rattling.

 

[Kona6Stang10]

Lol, Kona, whatever works!!!! I've done that, too! just put some WD40, PB, or oil on the threads when doing it, to help the 'threading' process.

The flat spot on the pipes for going over the rear end reduces the chance of the pipe hitting. That's a common problem area, as is the panhard bar, for pipe contact and rattling.

Haha yup!
Mine doesnt have the little bend/indention on the drivers side....but it only makes noise when I go over certain bumps....HARD lol

It's always on accident or on badly paved roads with potholes that you either don't know about or forgot about lol