Eibach Multi Pro R2

[steve13gt]

When installing my coilovers, I did not initially torque the top mount, piston rod nut. As these units are already assembled, I assumed it would have been taken care of. After just bumping out of the driveway, sounded lose. I snugged them up,(Can't use a torque wrench, or shaft will spin) After which I noticed the coils to bind, and make a ring, or doh-ing sound. I backed of the nut a bit and that went away but the other noise came back.

Anyone have experience? Is that coil bind normal? Shouldn't the pillowball turn even with that shock nut tight?

 

[OkieSnuffBox]

Take a cloth and put it in the mouth of some channel locks, grab the shock shaft, have someone tighten the upper mount nut.

 

[steve13gt]

I tightened her right down. There's two noises, one is acceptable, the other sounds bad.


Sent from my iPhone 5

 

[steve13gt]

I went over everything, and it is all tight, I have to note, there was 1 random washer included in the kit, with no mention of where to use it. Maybe its supposed to be a part of the pillow balls, who knows..

Also with both my pillow ball nuts cranked, one shock shaft can still rotate, and the other one is locked. Which should it be

 

[LS1EATINPONY]

Beware you could have problems with them leaking after some miles are put on them. I shipped mine out this morning to have them fixed for the second time in less than a year.

Also are you using aftermarket camber plates or the plates that come on the coilovers?

 

[Department Of Boost]

Beware you could have problems with them leaking after some miles are put on them. I shipped mine out this morning to have them fixed for the second time in less than a year.

Also are you using aftermarket camber plates or the plates that come on the coilovers?

Where are they leaking at? Shaft seals?

How many miles do you have on them?

 

[steve13gt]

Beware you could have problems with them leaking after some miles are put on them. I shipped mine out this morning to have them fixed for the second time in less than a year.

Also are you using aftermarket camber plates or the plates that come on the coilovers?

Plates that came with it, I could easily but my camber into positive using the supplied kit.

I don't understand why the coil is binding, why isnt the bearing allowing the spring to rotate. Eibach is sending me an isolator kit, but that doesn't help coil bind. And also installing this "kit" Means I have to uninstall everything and get an alignment, ugh

 

[LS1EATINPONY]

Where are they leaking at? Shaft seals?

How many miles do you have on them?

from what I can tell they are leaking from the top of the shock where the shaft goes in. I guess thats a shaft seal.

I have about 30,000 on them. Im getting fed up with them. They work well but its annoying to have these little problems.

 

[jymontoya]

What's the warranty like? Are you having to pay for the repair???

 

[steve13gt]

So I jacked mine up, on the driver side, I can rotate the upper spring seat/mount. On the Passenger side I cannot. So I still think that I need a new upper strut mount. Eibach says to check my bump stops, but its no where near that low.

I feel like Eibach, doesn't even know their own kit, do they not have an acct on here?

 

[Department Of Boost]

from what I can tell they are leaking from the top of the shock where the shaft goes in. I guess thats a shaft seal.

I have about 30,000 on them. Im getting fed up with them. They work well but its annoying to have these little problems.

30K! For a "race" damper that is perfectly acceptable where I come from.

You will never get that many miles out of an Ohlins, Penske, etc without multiple rebuilds.

You could probably run some off road style boots on them and make them last longer but they will never have OEM type reliability.

 

[Department Of Boost]

I feel like Eibach, doesn't even know their own kit, do they not have an acct on here?

I don't know of any high end "race" damper company that provides install or tuning data. That is the end users responsibility.

 

[LS1EATINPONY]

What's the warranty like? Are you having to pay for the repair???

one year warranty on these apparently. Mine ran out earlier this year. They did however say that if it didnt need to be rebuilt and only a new seal or something that they would fix the blown one for free. The others could be fixed free as well if it was just a minor fix. They seem to stand behind the customer if its "small" fixes which is good since shipping sucks so bad for a heavy package like that. If its big though, I will have to flip the bill for the parts and the repair labor. FINGERS CROSSED.

 

[jymontoya]

Good luck bro. It seems Eibach is living on their name more than anything these days.

I've always had excellent luck with KONI's and their lifetime warranty. Have been abusing them for more than 12 years on a variety of cars and never needed a single repair.

 

[Department Of Boost]

Good luck bro. It seems Eibach is living on their name more than anything these days.

I've always had excellent luck with KONI's and their lifetime warranty. Have been abusing them for more than 12 years on a variety of cars and never needed a single repair.

Eibach is repairing his dampers free of charge while out of warranty and your comment is that they are living off their name???

You're right, they sound like a horrible company that won't stand behind their products.

 

[steve13gt]

I don't know of any high end "race" damper company that provides install or tuning data. That is the end users responsibility.

I am not looking for install or tuning info..

I am looking for warranty of a defective coilover, and I am being asked to check my rear bump stops... Heres my problem

1. Lots of clunking at low speeds, more than I've ever heard from a pillowball set up.
2. Coil Bind, so bad to the point that the car will not drive straight after going around a corner, until I pull over and crank the wheel in the opposite direction, until lock.


So far what I have found, is that on the passenger side, the upper spring seat, will not rotate, period, unless I take all torque off the piston rod nut. On the driver side it will rotate, but is a bit stiff.

Eibach is sending me 4 "Isolators" Which they describe as "The isolator is the small thin “plate” that sits between the spring and the upper mount. We use a tight tolerance to avoid any excessive play. We think you might have one that is out of spec."

Really, I want a new pillow ball mount, and pillow ball bearings, but it doesn't seem like they are going to send me that.

I attached a file, the thing I marked with a Red X, is the what I am referring to as the upper spring seat.

Also my other problem now is that, I am within the lowering range they specify, but my bump stops, are bottomed out in the front. I know this isn't causing my problem as I had the same problems when I had the coils all the way to stock ride height, when I first installed them. Is this normal for a coilover kit? They are sending me new bump stops to make sure the correct ones were provided with my kit

 

[steve13gt]

 

[Department Of Boost]

Your springs are on upside down. That will fix your bump stop problem and most likely fix your “mount problem”.

The collar that goes between the springs has the bump stop trapped and with the topout spring collapsed and on upside down its probably wedged up against the top mount so it wont spin.

Have you checked the tires for clearance yet? You may need to clearance the swaybar mounts. Best to get that figured out now since you have to take them apart anyway.

 

[steve13gt]

My kit came pre assembled as it is. I saw other people had theres mounted like yours, but in my instructions it mounted the same as mine. I am only running 255s, so I assumed that sway bar mount was okay. I do not planning on running anything wider in the front as I DD, and my last mustang had sticky 275s in the front, FTL!

 

[Powered by Ford]

Your springs are on upside down. That will fix your bump stop problem and most likely fix your “mount problem”.

The collar that goes between the springs has the bump stop trapped and with the topout spring collapsed and on upside down its probably wedged up against the top mount so it wont spin.

Have you checked the tires for clearance yet? You may need to clearance the swaybar mounts. Best to get that figured out now since you have to take them apart anyway.

+1

My kit came pre assembled as it is. I saw other people had theres mounted like yours, but in my instructions it mounted the same as mine. I am only running 255s, so I assumed that sway bar mount was okay. I do not planning on running anything wider in the front as I DD, and my last mustang had sticky 275s in the front, FTL!

Are you sure the instructions said to mount the tender spring on top? If so, that makes zero sense.

Not to sound negative or confrontational, but do you understand how a tender spring works? The way you have the tender spring mounted is typically how you would use a helper spring. For this application you do not need a helper spring (helper springs have MUCH softer rates than tender springs too).

A tender spring is used in conjunction with a higher rate linear spring to do one of 2 things:

1. Assist with low rebound loads (or even negative in a serve enough case), this is the most critical situation because you need load at rebound or the spring could lose contact with the spring seats (failure mode here).
2. Will be the initial rate since they are typically around 150-300 lb/in spring rates, thus giving an initial progressive rate helping with street driving and road imperfections

Even the Eibach article in the 5.0 Mag has the tender spring at the bottom.