Electrical gremlin... anyone ever seen this?

[Taxman]

Anybody ever seen something like this happening? I've had some electrical issues (killing batteries, replacing alternators, third brake light issues) and this is what it's doing now.

It beeps and says "check trac control" and the voltmeter surges, then it stops. It'll do it for a few minutes and then stop.

 

[Timmbo]

Voltage regulator going out? How many alternators have you been through lately? Where did u buy the current alternator?

 

[Taxman]

Voltage regulator going out? How many alternators have you been through lately? Where did u buy the current alternator?

I've been through two stock ones. I'm using a PA performance 130 Amp one now that I bought from AM. Less than six months ago.

 

[Alfiedagr8]

Any recent work? Motor swaps etc




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[Taxman]

Started having issues after I installed my Vortech last year. Vortech, full exhaust, FRPP manifold, and gauges.

 

[Timmbo]

I would suggest when the voltage on the gauge spikes to verify it at the battery with a voltmeter to see if your going above 14.1 or so to rule out the gauge cluster being an issue. Those PA alternators are supposed to be pretty good not to mention new OEMs from the dealer. So with each alternator replacement was the gauge cluster doing the same thing with each alt failure or is this something new this time?

 

[Taxman]

This is a brand new issue and it doesn't do it when the car is just idling.

Makes it that much harder to figure out. I've got my old cluster I could put in to check that tho. It doesn't have the voltmeter gauge tho. It's the old four gauge cluster.

 

[Timmbo]

If you don't have someone to help I would wedge something up against the accelerator to keep your rpms up while you monitor the voltage over at the battery.

 

[Taxman]

I can get somebody to help but it'll be the weekend before I can probably. I've actually got a voltmeter battery terminal on my positive terminal so I can just watch it too.

 

[Alfiedagr8]

Did u mess with any engine ground cables/straps?


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[Taxman]

Not that I'm aware of. I'm pretty ignorant to electrical stuff, and though I've done all my own work so far, I have no real mechanical experience. I rely on the forums and google for DIY articles.

When I installed the supercharger, the only electrical work I did was to cut the tape around the passenger side wiring harness to that I could separate out the wires for the COP's and then lower the wiring harness down so that the expansion tank would fit. I did that and extended the MAF wiring by soldering in a length of wiring. I also installed gauges with an add-a-fuse and a shift light is spliced into the wire on the COP.

Then when I installed the Saleen rear fascia, I had to spice into the license plate light wiring for the new lights, but nothing other than that.

I'm clueless here. Hoping to not have to take it to a shop.

 

[techcargt]

Sounds a lot like another smart junction box problem . And see as that you have a convertible all the more reason to have a look at it .

 

[Taxman]

Wanted to add a little info and see what y'all think. I've got aftermarket HID's. I paid to have them installed and I'm thinking that a connection was loose. When I turned them on, sometimes the passenger light would flicker and not turn on. If I turned them off and then back on, it would come on. One of those "things I'll get to" and I never did. Anyway, when I was driving home last night, I had the lights on and this voltage thing happened, and when it did, the lights blinked out and then back on each time. I switched the lights from hi-beam to low, and the problem stopped. This morning the problem didn't occur at all (it's been every day before though) and on the way home it only did it once (where it's been doing it five or six times). I'm going to pull my HID's out and replace them and see if that's what is causing this problem. The HID's I have weren't bright enough anyway, so I had bought some brighter ones off Mikeyfitz when he traded in, which is why I've been lazy about fixing them.

Think this might be the issue?

Something else to add... I have the Cobalt gauges (wideband, fuel pres. & boost) all electrical. I've got them wired in with an add-a-fuse then ran three wires off of it, one to each gauge with a 5 amp in-line fuse. The wideband has gone bad. It doesn't read correctly and I've tried replacing the sensor, and the digits have started burning out.

Sounds a lot like another smart junction box problem . And see as that you have a convertible all the more reason to have a look at it .

Just read some threads, this seems like a possible issue.

 

[GoneFord]

...Something else to add... I have the Cobalt gauges (wideband, fuel pres. & boost) all electrical. I've got them wired in with an add-a-fuse then ran three wires off of it, one to each gauge with a 5 amp in-line fuse. The wideband has gone bad. It doesn't read correctly and I've tried replacing the sensor, and the digits have started burning out.

Just read some threads, this seems like a possible issue.

How long have you had your WB? My Autometer GS series WB has been in for 4 years and it recently dropped a chip LED. I think they just used cheap components.

 

[Taxman]

How long have you had your WB? My Autometer GS series WB has been in for 4 years and it recently dropped a chip LED. I think they just used cheap components.

I installed it when I installed the Vortech in June.

 

[HateBreeder]

I had the same problem with my old Nissan Maxima ... it turned out the window switch that was not working at the time ... is causing the voltage drop problem ...I just replaced the burned electronic widow switch card with a new one from the dealer ...

 

[GoneFord]

I installed it when I installed the Vortech in June.

Wow! They have a 12 month warranty. I'd arrange an RMA for that problem. I wish I could help on your other. I'm chasing some Gremlins myself.

 

[michael.konor]

Sounds a lot like another smart junction box problem . And see as that you have a convertible all the more reason to have a look at it .

Agree.

Pull out your SJB, inspect the inside, inspect every single cable going into it, and every single connector for any sign of corrosion or water.

 

[Taxman]

I'll be doing that for sure.

Yesterday I replaced my wideband and my HID's. my brand new wideband also is reading wrong. It reads very lean when my AF is perfect. I was just on a Dyno the other day and it's perfect. I replaced gauge and sensor.

I'm also getting a DTC of P0622.

I'll be checking all my grounds and pulling the SJB soon. No driving it until then though.

 

[sportinawoody]

are those resistors on the front of both heads grounded securely ?