Sorry for listing several different problems in the same thread, but here we go.
Backstory and symptoms: automatic tranny died back in march and was swapped for a tr3650. Swap was successful and the car was running perfectly until a few weeks ago, when i parked it for 7 days to go on vacation. I come back and the battery is dead. no biggie, maybe i left a light on or the battery is just showing its age (its around 3 1/2 years old iirc).
Jumper cables come out, but oddly this time it cranked a very very long time (3 long attempts) before starting. I say oddly because i have had to jump it once or twice before and it has always cranked a little slowly at first, but then fired right up.
I take it out for a drive to charge the battery (approx 30 mins) and get gas, but when i try to start it again after getting gas it BARELY starts. I find this too odd since the previous times i jumped it and drove to charge it, it would be good to go and start right up after maybe 15 mins of driving. I had the battery tested at the parts store twice and it passed both times and was "fully charged".
However, here is the routine every time i start the car now: turn key, instrument cluster darkens (normal i believe) while still cranking very slowly, but does start. After starting, the instrument cluster remains dark/dead for 2-10 seconds, and then lights back up and performs normally. The radio simultaneously also resets itself and acts like the car was just started after having a dead battery (all settings erased, turns on to AM and cycles the disc changer) every time the car is started.
The car had to sit again for 3 weeks, but this time i disconnected the battery. Came back and it did start but with the same symptoms as before. This at least proved that the battery by itself is still in fact good.
Also, ever since i came back from the first trip, when idling, sometimes there is a miss or stumble that i can feel and hear that continues up to about 2500 rpms if you rev it slowly in neutral. I believe this may relate to the ignition coil code?
And lastly, (again ever since the first trip) i have been noticing a more pronounced ticking coming from the drivers side valve cover. Again rpm dependent. A did research and read about cam phasers, as well as lash adjusters and lifters and how they can become stuck/seized/collapsed and wreck cams and whole engines if they come apart.
I was going to pull the valve cover to check and see if i noticed anything amiss but first i tried an oil change just this morning and it actually seems to have cleared it up... it was about 5000 miles since my last oil change (i usually do every 3000), so maybe just dirty oil clogging and not providing adequate pressure to whatever was making the noise? Or should i still pull the cover and check?
Other things to note:
-I tried cleaning the battery terminals and cables and applying anti corrosion goo. no luck
-Fuel filter was changed not too long ago
-Alternator was replaced not too long ago
-TPS was replaced not too long ago
-Spark plugs are original as far as i know (car was bought at 48k and currently has 89k). I want to change them but ill be honest im too scared about one or more breaking off and being SOL because i just started college and the car is my transportation to my AFROTC classes (40 miles away) every friday haha...
-The car has a sound system and takes power direct from the battery but its pretty mild and has never given me trouble for almost 3 years before because its fused and switched via the stock headunit
-Because of the manual tranny swap, i am also running a constant hot wire for the reverse lights, but its switched via the shifter/tranny switch, so if the switch is open it shouldnt really be drawing much power should it?
-Regarding the previous 2, i tried disconnecting both constant hot wires but it made no difference as far as i can tell
-The car still runs perfect once on the road
-I tried returning to stock and reloading my tunes
-And finally i pulled some codes
I searched for info on all of the following codes which my 05 GT is throwing, and found limited info. Other people have reported having some of the same codes, but with symptoms unrelated to mine.
The codes are:
p0689- ecm/pcm power relay sense circuit low
p0830/0833- clutch pedal switch a/b circuit
p0355- ignition coil e primary or secondary circuit malfunction
Sorry again for being long winded haha, this has been building for some time now and im finally trying to do something about it.
Backstory and symptoms: automatic tranny died back in march and was swapped for a tr3650. Swap was successful and the car was running perfectly until a few weeks ago, when i parked it for 7 days to go on vacation. I come back and the battery is dead. no biggie, maybe i left a light on or the battery is just showing its age (its around 3 1/2 years old iirc).
Jumper cables come out, but oddly this time it cranked a very very long time (3 long attempts) before starting. I say oddly because i have had to jump it once or twice before and it has always cranked a little slowly at first, but then fired right up.
I take it out for a drive to charge the battery (approx 30 mins) and get gas, but when i try to start it again after getting gas it BARELY starts. I find this too odd since the previous times i jumped it and drove to charge it, it would be good to go and start right up after maybe 15 mins of driving. I had the battery tested at the parts store twice and it passed both times and was "fully charged".
However, here is the routine every time i start the car now: turn key, instrument cluster darkens (normal i believe) while still cranking very slowly, but does start. After starting, the instrument cluster remains dark/dead for 2-10 seconds, and then lights back up and performs normally. The radio simultaneously also resets itself and acts like the car was just started after having a dead battery (all settings erased, turns on to AM and cycles the disc changer) every time the car is started.
The car had to sit again for 3 weeks, but this time i disconnected the battery. Came back and it did start but with the same symptoms as before. This at least proved that the battery by itself is still in fact good.
Also, ever since i came back from the first trip, when idling, sometimes there is a miss or stumble that i can feel and hear that continues up to about 2500 rpms if you rev it slowly in neutral. I believe this may relate to the ignition coil code?
And lastly, (again ever since the first trip) i have been noticing a more pronounced ticking coming from the drivers side valve cover. Again rpm dependent. A did research and read about cam phasers, as well as lash adjusters and lifters and how they can become stuck/seized/collapsed and wreck cams and whole engines if they come apart.
I was going to pull the valve cover to check and see if i noticed anything amiss but first i tried an oil change just this morning and it actually seems to have cleared it up... it was about 5000 miles since my last oil change (i usually do every 3000), so maybe just dirty oil clogging and not providing adequate pressure to whatever was making the noise? Or should i still pull the cover and check?
Other things to note:
-I tried cleaning the battery terminals and cables and applying anti corrosion goo. no luck
-Fuel filter was changed not too long ago
-Alternator was replaced not too long ago
-TPS was replaced not too long ago
-Spark plugs are original as far as i know (car was bought at 48k and currently has 89k). I want to change them but ill be honest im too scared about one or more breaking off and being SOL because i just started college and the car is my transportation to my AFROTC classes (40 miles away) every friday haha...
-The car has a sound system and takes power direct from the battery but its pretty mild and has never given me trouble for almost 3 years before because its fused and switched via the stock headunit
-Because of the manual tranny swap, i am also running a constant hot wire for the reverse lights, but its switched via the shifter/tranny switch, so if the switch is open it shouldnt really be drawing much power should it?
-Regarding the previous 2, i tried disconnecting both constant hot wires but it made no difference as far as i can tell
-The car still runs perfect once on the road
-I tried returning to stock and reloading my tunes
-And finally i pulled some codes
I searched for info on all of the following codes which my 05 GT is throwing, and found limited info. Other people have reported having some of the same codes, but with symptoms unrelated to mine.
The codes are:
p0689- ecm/pcm power relay sense circuit low
p0830/0833- clutch pedal switch a/b circuit
p0355- ignition coil e primary or secondary circuit malfunction
Sorry again for being long winded haha, this has been building for some time now and im finally trying to do something about it.
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