Engine ran out of oil (oil filter gasket issue), ran for like 2 seconds before I turned it off.

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I fixed the oil issue - engine sounds fine (un hurt rotating assy) but now I get the P0012 and P0022 codes. I installed a mech oil pressure gauge and it reads 25-30 psi at idle, and about 60 psi at cruise (2K), so I think the oil pressure is fine. I have replaced the camshaft position sensor, and the VCT solenoid, but the code still persists.

Right when I shut it off (when I saw I had no oil pressure) I heard a noise kinda like collapsed lifters. I'm thinking either both cam phasers let go, or my timing chain(s) jumped a tooth. It runs pretty good (but with CE light that won't go away), but it idles a little bit rough (will drop to 500 rpm, then come back up to normal with a tiny bit of discernible unevenness), and if I get on it even a little it has a slight pinging like I'm running cheap gas (I have always used 91 - that's the highest they sell here in Tucson) or pulling a steep grade in 120 degree heat (like the ignition timing is too far advanced). If this were an older car I'd back the ignition timing off.

Any ideas? My next move is to pull the valve covers to look for any untied shoelaces, and then I'll try to verify proper cam timing.
 

skwerl

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Cam phasers. For replacements use Ford parts, not Dorman or other cheap copies. If you need the wedge tool for the timing chain I still have my old one which I'll let go cheap.
 

Totheboards

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Could the lack of oil pressure in the tensioners allow the chains to skip a tooth at the crank sprocket when the engine was shut off?
 

46addict

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Could the lack of oil pressure in the tensioners allow the chains to skip a tooth at the crank sprocket when the engine was shut off?
The newer plastic tensioners do not rely on oil pressure to keep tension. I just did a timing job/cam degreeing on mine and I can't see how a chain could jump once the tensioner pins are pulled during assembly.

Running with no or low oil pressure puts you at risk or scoring up the cam journals/towers which can cause the cam to shift around if the gap is wide enough. That or it could be a failed phaser like mentioned above. I have an unused Ford OE phaser with a new phaser bolt I can sell you. If you have two broken ones you'll need to source the second one from somewhere else.
 
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Thanks guys. I am going to replace the phasers this weekend (had to wait on a tool bought through Amazon). Unfortunately, I bought the replacement phasers before I read that only the OEM parts should be used. I guess I'll take a chance and put 'em in and see what happens.

I'll post the results (hopefully on Monday) to help any others who may find themselves in a similar situation.
 

skwerl

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If you're using Dorman parts then save your tools because you will be doing it again in a few months.
 

eighty6gt

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LKQ has good replacement engines, shipping should be not bad in the continental US. They have a big Ebay store.
 

1950StangJump$

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OP, out of curiosity, did this happen because the old oil filter gasket was unknowingly left on the engine when you put the new filter and gasket on?

Did that once with my (ex) wife's brand new Jeep. Got the motor turned off before 1/2 the oil was gone . . . but what a mess it made of the new engine bay and my garage floor.
 

01yellerCobra

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IMO, it's luck of the draw on Ford vs other parts. I went through 2 Ford phasers on the driver side of our 06. One of them lasted less than 5k miles. I put a Dorman in because I was tired of paying Ford prices. It was still going when we traded the car in a few thousand miles later.
 
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Yes, I accidently left the gasket on the block, and didn't notice the oil leak till I was 1/4 mile away from home. Gauge hit 0 as a pulled into my driveway, and I shut it down right away.

Just to update the thread, both phasers were broken (came apart when I took the cam bolt off) - I've replaced them with ones from Amazon ($60 bucks a piece), and so far so good. I'll have to see how long these will last, but for now my girl is back to her nasty old self!
 

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