Finally doing LCA on '11 brembo

[TGR96]

Wow, those videos are really revealing. I am still running the stock UCA. After seeing that, I will be putting on a good, beefy aftermarket UCA very soon.

 

[BMR Tech]

Thanks. Well, I haven't really had a chance to test them out but, I think they'll help keep the tires planted and eliminate much if not all the wheel hop.

If you are not an experienced in doing these kind of installs, get help from the experienced and BE SAFE! In the case of changing out LCA's, they also perform the duty of keeping the rear end in place. With that said:

As an addition for installing this combo, two things on the install if you are using the supplied instructions: DO NOT mount your axle on the jack stands. Use the lifting points that are designated on the body frame and keep the jack under the diff under slight load.

DO NOT torque anything down until you have all the pieces and bolts in place, then torque down the relo brackets first. When you remove the stock LCA, the axle has a tendency to move back (1-2 inches) making it seem as though the new LCA's are to short (this is why you don't use the axle to set your jack stands on). You must pry the axle forward to line up the new LCA to the mounting hole. Not hard to accomplish this. I used my giant screw driver to do this but, a normal pry bar should suffice.

Again, torque down the relo brackets first and the LCA's while they are under load (in ride position) either by supporting the weight of the car with the jack under the diff (Jack stands still in place for safety, of course) or when the car is on the ground.

Who ever it was that put together the install instructions for the relo brackets, someone should slap them silly. Fix it, BMR!

I will put in a change for the axle mounted on the jack-stands. I agree, although it can be done per the instructions, it is much easier to support the chassis with jack stands, and the axle with something that has "movement".

As for tightening down everything, I agree 100% about tightening/torquing everything AFTER the bolts are all installed.

In regards to torquing the LCA down at ride-height/suspension loaded, that is not necessary.

Thank you for the tip, I will put in for a revision sir.

 

[BMR Tech]

For those reading, wheel-hop is caused by lack of traction, and lack of axle stabilization.

That being said, you can/will eliminate wheel-hop by stabilizing the axle more, and increasing traction.

The entire rear suspension plays a role in wheel-hop. There are many different combinations that have proven to cure it.

If you have any specific questions, please ask.

 

[WILECYOT]

Is there a video out there with a solid bushing installed? I like that.

 

[Black 5.0]

I will put in a change for the axle mounted on the jack-stands. I agree, although it can be done per the instructions, it is much easier to support the chassis with jack stands, and the axle with something that has "movement".

As for tightening down everything, I agree 100% about tightening/torquing everything AFTER the bolts are all installed.

In regards to torquing the LCA down at ride-height/suspension loaded, that is not necessary.

Thank you for the tip, I will put in for a revision sir.

As for the placement of the jack stands per your instructions. That movement you speak of would be the car itself instead of just the axle to the unsuspecting. When you remove even one LCA, you are removing a part that keeps the rear end and the car in it's place. Transfer the 'movement' to the car and it could end up being disastrous. Keep the 'movement' isolated to the axle.


"As for tightening down everything, I agree 100% about tightening/torquing everything AFTER the bolts are all installed."

As for tightening down everything, I agree 100% about tightening/torquing everything AFTER the parts are all installed.

There...fixed it for ya. And thanks for your reply!

 

[BMR Tech]

Pieces AND Bolts, per post #20.

 

[Black 5.0]

Pieces AND Bolts, per post #20.

Roger that!