Finally Upgraded My Tune,,, But Different Dyno

Candy10

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Got my car retuned today after a couple upgrades, but hard to say how much I’ve actually gained. The car was always tuned on a Mustang Dyno, today it was done on DynoJet. Shop owner told me beforehand his dyno is a heartbreaker, people get higher numbers everywhere else. Gonna do this as a list, so it’s easier to follow (discussion after):

Mustang dyno:
1. When i first installed the Kenne Bell on stock block 476whp/412tq

2. Built a lower compression engine, added 2lbs of boost 469whp/410tq

DynoJet (today):
1. Base run 413whp/391tq (holy shit that’s bad, I thought to myself)

2. Added 130mm TB and replaced MAF with Cobra housing and sensor 455whp/419tq

3. Tuner tweaked it a bit 463whp/421tq

4. Last run, was beyond heat soaked at this point so we called it a day

Now, when i street tested it, it’s faster. Like quite a bit faster! Even heat soaked. So, I can’t complain, but I have questions. I understand that the dyno is simply a tool to see gains through upgrades and down tune things, but is there a way to compare the Mustang Dyno and DynoJet? Like 500hp on Mustang is equal to XXXhp on DynoJet?

In my head, I see the 56whp difference between dynos, and think I can add that to my old number to get what the Mustang Dyno would read today. So 463+56=519whp in my universe LOL.

Ass-dyno is all I really care about, and it’s good, but this seems like a fun discussion for the “smart” dudes in here
 

JC SSP

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I think you have some good initial numbers. Congratulations.

I am not one to hang my hat on dyno numbers. I have smoked many cars that have much more HP/TQ than my little coupe. You know your car, if it feels faster it probably is. Enjoy buddy.
 

JEWC_Motorsports

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A dyno is a tool used to fine tune all the lil things, i wouldn't worry about the numbers if it feels faster.
 

Dino Dino Bambino

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Mustang dyno:

1. When i first installed the Kenne Bell on stock block 476whp/412tq

2. Built a lower compression engine, added 2lbs of boost 469whp/410tq

DynoJet (today):
1. Base run 413whp/391tq (holy shit that’s bad, I thought to myself)

2. Added 130mm TB and replaced MAF with Cobra housing and sensor 455whp/419tq

3. Tuner tweaked it a bit 463whp/421tq

4. Last run, was beyond heat soaked at this point so we called it a day

Now, when i street tested it, it’s faster. Like quite a bit faster! Even heat soaked. So, I can’t complain, but I have questions. I understand that the dyno is simply a tool to see gains through upgrades and down tune things, but is there a way to compare the Mustang Dyno and DynoJet? Like 500hp on Mustang is equal to XXXhp on DynoJet?

In my head, I see the 56whp difference between dynos, and think I can add that to my old number to get what the Mustang Dyno would read today. So 463+56=519whp in my universe LOL.

Ass-dyno is all I really care about, and it’s good, but this seems like a fun discussion for the “smart” dudes in here

1. Every dyno is different so you can't compare one to another or use some sort of multiplication factor to fudge the numbers, as dyno operators often do. The calibration and data inputs may also differ depending on who's operating it.

2. You gained 50rwhp & 30rwtq so you could reasonably assume that your car's putting down 519rwhp & 440rwtq. If that's confirmed by the SOTP, you should be grinning from ear to ear. :D

3. Since you built a lower compression engine, I'm going to assume it has forged rods/pistons. Therefore you could go even higher with the boost but if your car is primarily street driven, you already have more than enough power anyway and there'll always be someone faster. It all depends on how quickly you want to empty your wallet. :lol:
 

86GT351

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Just numbers. Although they can be frustrating. You stated it is faster on the street. So the numbers did not change much but the overall performance and drivability did. That's what a dyno is for! Congrats.
 

pass1over

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I've always heard it the other way around. Dynojet's usually fictitiously inflate the HP numbers because of the giant roller your car is on. We had a portable Dyno Dynamics dyno, which is similar to the portable mustang dyno, and ours was referred to as the heart breaker, lol.
I was always told, if a dyno operator asked you what you think your car should make before strapping it down, don't answer with a number. There is a correction factor in the software that you can mess with and make the car have huge numbers.

But like all have said, it's just a tuning tool, don't get hung up on the numbers. Sounds like they were able to do what you needed and you gained drivability and some speed. Awesome!!
 

JC SSP

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Yeah 1/4 mile will show real results.

FYI I am not big on 1/8 mile although a lot of people like running it.
 

Dino Dino Bambino

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Yeah 1/4 mile will show real results.

FYI I am not big on 1/8 mile although a lot of people like running it.

The 1/8 mile trap speed is the best reflection of how much HP the car is putting down. The 1/4 mile trap speed is also pretty accurate but this result is more likely to be affected by aerodynamic drag. In my case it's restricted by the 6500rpm rev limiter in 3rd gear :D .
You could have a bit of fun playing around with these HP calculators to see how accurate they are for your car:

https://www.angelfire.com/my/fan/WHPCalculator1.htm

This shows 327rwhp for my car (87.9mph trap).

https://www.angelfire.com/my/fan/WHPCalculator2.htm

This shows 313rwhp for my car (restricted 109.1 trap by rev limiter).
 
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JC SSP

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My little coupe is just starting to get going in the 1/8... at the end of the 1/4 I am shifting into 4th as I cross the lights.

I have been racing for years and the 1/8 mile just doesn't let a car reach its max potential. Just my .02 cents
 

Pentalab

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And exactly HOW do these folks calibrate their dyno's ??? With ALL test gear, it's typ calibrated once every year, or two at the most.

Mustang dyno's typ read 10% LOWER than a dynojet, not higher.
Something is grossly amiss here.
 

Candy10

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Thanks to all who answered. The question comparing hypothetical numbers between dynos is all in fun, I know for a fact the car gained something, it’s pulling harder than ever. By quite a bit.
In regards to the Mustang dyno usually being the heart breaker and DynoJet running high, the numbers here lead me to believe that the calibration on one or the other of these machines has been messed with, maybe even both of em. I’ll get in on the track eventually, but it will need some sort of cheaters/slicks. My current Falkens provide plenty of lateral grip, the car was used for autocross/trackdays, but they don’t launch well at all. The 4.10s don’t help lol

@Dino Dino Bambino motor is built and more boost is the next step. Just wanted to get these little things in order first. Only question is, how much boost is too much for the street? *evil laugh
 

BullittSS

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Mustang and Dynojet results have been debated for many years. One thing I don't see mentioned is density altitude correction. Density altitude calculators are readily available online -- they can be used to objectively evaluate and compare dyno numbers (if using the same dyno). Atmospheric conditions can make a significant difference in dyno numbers and 1/4 times. For drag racing, using a density altitude correction calculator allows you to make valid comparisons, regardless of atmospheric conditions and altitude, across different tracks. Of course, there are other factors to consider, like track prep, etc., but correcting for density altitude is a good start when making comparisons.

For dynos:
https://wahiduddin.net/calc/calc_hp.htm

For 1/4 mile ET's:
https://www.dragtimes.com/da-density-altitude-calculator.php
 

Dino Dino Bambino

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The dyno operators normally input the weather data (ambient temperature, barometric pressure, relative humidity, elevation) into their systems, so the final results you receive will be with either SAE or STD correction (you can even request both). However the correct vehicle weight, tire size, and transmission gear also have to be inputted, and results can vary depending on which gear is used. The 1.00:1 ratio transmission gear is preferred but if it can't do a sweep of the whole rpm range due to a top speed governor intervening, the next lower gear is used.
Dyno operators can easily fudge the numbers especially if you tell them in advance how much HP you're expecting.

Contrary to some popular myths, Dynojets don't exaggerate the numbers. It's the operators that do by manipulating the correction factors. Mustang dynos can read anything from 0-15% lower so it's impossible to accurately extrapolate the results from one dyno to another. Even if you run the same car on the same day (with no changes to the car) on two different dynos, the loading on Mustang dynos (or similar) can alter the shape of the HP & TQ curves.

Don't forget that bigger, heavier wheels will lower your dyno results especially on an inertia dyno such as the Dynojet, and it's also more vulnerable to the effects of tire slippage on cars with very high HP/TQ numbers. A Dynapack hub dyno eliminates that variable and produces the most accurate, repeatable results.
 

Candy10

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The tuner didn’t enter shit on the computer LOL. Turned it on, strapped up the car, plugged in his laptop and got to work. Didn’t even ask me the gear ratio LMAO

At the end of the day though, he tuned the graph on the screen, and that shop really stands by the the “dyno numbers don’t matter, it’s just a tool” mantra. And let me tell y’all, I took it out this morning before the temps got too high, and from a 60 roll in 3rd, it lit the tires up. Once the tires were hot, the 55-130 hits were fucking awesome. Need different tires before anything I think
 

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